If you were in a wind storm area like me, I would definitely say metal. Nothing compares to the durability and the energy efficiency of it. It does cost about 4 times as much, so it probably is not the most economical.

If you go shingle, I can show you test data where white shingles save you energy.

I love the look of painted floors.

Here's a good read:

http://www.askthebuilder.com/431_Painti ... Well.shtml

We don't have the self-stick type of tiles, ours is supposed to be glued with vinyl flooring adhesive. But after doing some remodel work, I was told by our warranty guys to use spray adhesive. I found this at Lowe's, and I can tell you that I have no problems whatsoever with them trying to come up. ...

You can always add blown cellulose insulation to the belly area also. This would be much less work and may actually be cheaper than trying to replace the fiberglass. The belly may need some additional support from below which could be accomplished with some wood framing.

Here's the original thread, it definitely rubbed me the wrong way. http://mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=3312&highlight= trying to refute statements made here by site moderators and/or admins will not be tolerated. Is it me, or he saying that once a site moderator has made a statemen...

I'm not advocating using a tarp as a belly wrap, but it seems like you are saying they are completely different materials, and they're not. They were designed for different purposes, and honestly the belly wrap is inferior in it's qualities because of that. My house came from the factory (2007 model...

The level for cellulose as an R-19 is 40 ft2 @ 6" thickness. That extra volume comes from the product being 'air fluffed' as it's sprayed.

With that, your house will require approx. 1900 ft2 ÷ 40 ft2 per bag = 48 bags.

Now the tough part is being able to spray it in the attic itself.

FYI: I wouldn't think manufactured home full slabs would be much different than regular house slabs, but those would have the vapor barrier layed under the slab before the concrete pour.

Again, just an FYI.

Correct, standard cabinets are 23-24" deep with the countertop overhanging that.

I've blown in cellulose insulation before, and like JD says, you would have to point the nozzle where you want it to go to get the coverage needed to be beneficial. A professional MAY be able to do so with a long extension of piping, but even then, I don't know how they'd want to handle a 20-30' pip...

Not trying to start an argument here, but the belly frabric on my house is a woven polyethylen sheet JUST like the tarp I have outside.

They both resist critters because they aren't a food source for them.

I doesn't get cold here for long enough to freeze the house pipes, and it's only been since spring that I've done this, so there's been no below freezing temps. The foam insulation will privide enough protection, but your case may be different. I do forget though that the underfloor ducts that most ...

Basically.

The only problem I foresee it it may not support the insulation and piping the same as the belly wrap.

Did you just toe screw the header into the king studs?

Tyvek is essential an air barrier that allows moisture to migrate through. It simply allows the walls to breathe.

Your belly wrap performs the same way, but unlike tyvek, it's a woven poly sheet similar to a tarp, that has tiny holes that allow the underside of your house to breathe.