Thanks bunches for all the help...
I bought the book & downloaded it last night... Have just browsed thru it here & there...
I guess we really do need an electrician to check things out. I know I would sleep better at night.. I always say a prayer right before we get home from any trips that the place didn't burn down while we were gone...
I am sorry to hear about the unsuccessful Sharkbites... I had read where they were so easy to use.. Just curious, 1987Commodore, why you like the clamp better than the crimper???
Well it is time to say Good Night everyone...
Thanks again for all the info and input
Take Care
Not what you want to see next door.......
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- Posts: 383
- Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:53 pm
- Location: Steuben County, NY
Some people have had good luck with the sharkbites, just not me. I would not use them in any inaccessible areas, like inside a wall or such. If they start leaking in there, a lot of damage could happen before you are aware of it. A plumber installed one (twice) in the belly, and both leaked. I replaced with the clamps, and no more problems.
Really, the main reason I use the clamps over the crimps is that the cost was lower for the materials and tool at the time I purchased them. I have heard that the popularity of either method varies by the area you're in. If you already have the crimper, go that route.
Either one works equally well, but with the crimper you have to use a gauge on each crimp to be sure it's good, the clamp tool releases itself when the clamp is properly tight.
The cost of having an electrician out will likely be less than the cost of all the new wire and wiremould to redo everything.
Really, the main reason I use the clamps over the crimps is that the cost was lower for the materials and tool at the time I purchased them. I have heard that the popularity of either method varies by the area you're in. If you already have the crimper, go that route.
Either one works equally well, but with the crimper you have to use a gauge on each crimp to be sure it's good, the clamp tool releases itself when the clamp is properly tight.
The cost of having an electrician out will likely be less than the cost of all the new wire and wiremould to redo everything.
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- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
- Location: wisconsin
Greg and Commodore already gave some good advice but thought I would add some things. Sounds like you have a bunch of problems that you need to start fixing on at a time.
Another thing I would recomend is to at least check if your trailer is level. A water level is cheap and fairly easy to do, good instructions in the book you bought. If need be you will have to buy a bottle jack to relevel it. Crawling under the trailer isn't to bad. I just put some old cloths on and take an old broom down there and sweep away any cob webs. You should tackle one issue at a time, water and electrical being the most important from what I can tell. Post up specific questions about each problem you have and you will get some good advice and we can walk you through the repairs. Pictures from you will really help get the best advice. Good luck!Brooksie wrote:Thanks for all the replies... How can I tell if it is Romex wiring???
Romex is just the insulated wires and a ground in a sleeve, think it's a stiff rubber like sleeve. I believe you said your MH was a 91 so it is most likely wired with romex.
I want to say that when we bought this place, it was for the view. We sit high on the side of a hill on a very wide creek that is connected to a major river. My thought was, to either replace this DW with a new model or build. Well, DH had a different thought...![]()
Sounds like a wonderful place, fix the probelms and then sit back and enjoy!
The people that owned our DW before, did all kinds of what they called "remodeling"... We keep finding things that were done wrong... That is why I don't trust the wiring...
We have already replaced a few outlets and I believe they did also..but not sure they were done correctly...
I love trying to figure out and fix others shody work!
We had a leaky roof and one outlet started to smoke that looked like "downstream" from the leak. I took it apart and disconnected all the wires and wrapped electrical tape around all the metal ends separating them. Then duct taped the whole mess on the paneled wall above the outlet so water couldn't reach just in case I didn't get the wires taped snug enough.
I'm concerned about what you said you did here. Wires with tape just hanging there is not a good thing. If your roof is fixed you should be able to repair this outlet right. A picture might help to show what is going on and get more help.
I had the roof done while we were on vacation, DH really mad that I did that, he wanted to finish it himself, he had started it but I was tired of watching more and more rain streaming down on the carpet from the ceiling not to mention the mold it must be creating and water damage spreading. Anyway, so I guess I can put that wall plug back together now with all new stuff.
Also, we have a few of those lights that flicker or come on sometimes and don't others... My DH put up 2 new light fixtures in the kitchen but they don't seem to be working right. I have table lamps around in the kitchen for light..
Lights flikering can be a bad switch, loose connection, or the light itself. Start at the switch, the are cheap and easy to do. The switches and outlets used in these MH are garbage in my opinion. The wires are "stabbed" and metal tabs pierce the wires insulation, lots of room for error. A switch, remodel outlet box and cover will cost you right around a dollar. Shut the power off. I always tell people to go buy a tester to be sure the power is off, 10-20 bucks is cheap insurance. Take the wire off the switch and if you can stick it in the wall so it won't fall, you will have to pull it back out. Trace the cut in box and cut with drywall saw. Pull wire out and stick in box. Might have to cut it if it was like mine. Tighten up the box tabs to secure it to drywall and wire up switch. Should fix most flickering, if not have to look at the light fixture and connections there.
One of the bathroom CFI plugs keeps tripping, so DH put in a regular plug so we could use it. He said we both know better than to let water on something electrical...
Not the best way to "fix" your problem. Need to figure out what is tripping that GFCI. They might have wired up an outlet outside that is controlled by that GFCI which is causing the trip. Have to look around outside and under the trailer for outlets. We have one under for heat tape.
As far as, using the wire mold stuff and it looking like crap... this whole place looks like crap.. We still have those little strips between wall panels and my thought was to run the wire mold on one of those. Of course, the ceiling would show, but I hate these ceilings... So maybe if we ever replace them we can figure a way to camouflage it.
Here is a list of things that I would love to have fixed:
1. I only have hot water at my kitchen sink because of a busted line beneath the house. DH is in no hurry to get any of these done and has recently been diagnosed with full blown diabetes so he is tired all the time. He is still learning how to deal with it. He also wants to do all repairs himself with no outside help. But he doesn't always know how to fix and believes in shortcuts that I am not sure of... He is now retired, which is good. I am depressed a lot which zaps my energy and of course, I am overweight & out of shape.. I don't know how to repair either but if I want things to start getting done, I may have to do them myself... somehow... Maybe with your all's help.. PLEASE...![]()
How do you have the water shut off to the burst pipe under the home? Health problems are not fun. Most of your problems sound like you can fix *fairly* easy. Just start chipping away at them.
2. I only have cold water at the Mstrbdrm bathrm sink. I can't remember why, it has been so long. Thinking about turning the hot back on to see what it was. Also mold all over the back wall under that sink. I keep spraying with Clorox Cleanup.
What kind of pipes do you have, copper, cpvc, pex?
3. MstrBrm shower line busted from not being insulated enough close to the outside wall. This was one of the "remodels" from previous owners.
Fixing these bursts are fairly easy depending on what kind of pipes you have.
4. Floor under stove, DW, kitchen sink needs replacing... The vinyl floor keeps sinking lower and lower.
This is a little bigger fix but not to bad. Fix all the water leaks first and then tackle the floor.
5. We both replaced the commode in the mstrbath and he put down some plywood but cut it wrong and so there are gaps. I bought some "Stuff it" stuff to fill the gaps. We still need to buy vinyl squares to cover. I really don't want to replace all the vinyl if possible.
Where are the gaps? Is there enough wood to support the drain flange? Wood is fairly cheap and so is a new wax ring. If it was me I would take it out and fix it right. Make a cardboard template to get the cuts right.
6. All the carpet needs removing... It is sculptured tight weaved carpet. When I use my shampoo carpet cleaner it can't get into the grooves & we have pets.. so I need to shampoo.. I want to replace the carpet with linoleum that looks like wood flooring.. I might have to settle on vinyl...but I want a solid, not squares or planks..flooring..
Make sure everything is fixed before any new flooring goes in. Hate to put new flooring in and have a water leak or rotten subfloor ruin the new flooring.
7. Definitely replace all sockets, outlets, etc..
Cheap and fairly easy to do.
Ok there are more things but I thought I should end the "book" now and continue another time... Thanks for taking time to read all my stuff....![]()
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