Changing pitch on my roof.....

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Materhead
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:19 am

I have a 2003 Cavalier 24x44 for a lakehouse. I am wanting to change my roof pitch to 8, 12. It has 2x4 stud walls. I am wanting to use 2x10 for my rafter beam, and 2x6's for my rafters. I was planning on running lathe of coarse and tin for the top. Any harm in doing this? Thanks for any help.........Mater
DCDiva
Posts: 191
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:16 pm

I am not sure why you are changing the pitch--this might be too heavy the doule wide was engineered for the roof it has,if you put his on top of it?? and expensive---if you are going to put a metal roof like I did the rain/snow really runs off these roofs and there are many colors to choose from,chose the light color to help with the AC and there was a tax credit --you can put 2x4 on your current roof--screwed across the trusses and add the metal roof,very easy you order the exact lenght needed,comes in 3 ft wide and you over lap them,screw them into the 2 x4's--you can remove the shingles I have seen it done both ways
Good luck,Melisssa
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Jim from Canada
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:39 am

Changing the pitch of your roof is considered a structural change and requires a building permit.
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

You could make a free standing roof. I have seen Pole barn style roofs built over homes. Since they are not really connected to the home there is no structural change to the home. It may still require permits, but it is an option.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Materhead
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:19 am

No permit required where we live. The reason for changing the roof pitch is because it will double insulate the roof, and plus it looks 100% better than the 3, 12 that comes on them.

Thanks Greg, I have considered that, just didnt want the post on the back of the house cause that is what we pull up to at the lake. The front faces the lake. The end of the house where the tongues where will all have post on that end and was planning on adding 4 post to the front, and possibly the rear end. Just didn't want those post across the back of the house if I can get away with it. Aint seen one like it before. May be a reason for that........lol

Thanks for the help and replies
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Greg
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

As with any type of additional weight added to the home you should add parameter blocking. Without it you run the risk of bowing the floor joists from excessive weight.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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JD
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When adding up the costs and labor of building up the roof and installing a new shingle roof, as well as the possible drawbacks of the added weight, looking at a different type of roof would be a good consideration. Going with a single-ply "rubber roof" (actually PVC or TPO) and polyiso insulation could raise the roof insulation up to an additional R-24 as well as give you a roof that should last twice as long and give you better roof reflection.

A PVC roof can be installed with adhesive instead of heat welded, which lends itself to DIY installs. I would not recommend anyone try to heat weld their first single-ply roof. There is just so much that could go wrong. The seams are the only tricky part of installing a single-ply, IMO. Other than that, it is very light weight, easy to manage on the roof and cuts with scissors.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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