Hi,
I am new here and i really need some help as to how to take the bathtub out of my bathroom so i can replace the floor. I have a 1977 Holly Park, i have attached a couple pictures of the bathtub, they aren't great but you should be able to see enough to help me out.
The bathtub is in two peices. as you can see in the pictures. What i need to know is how the heck do you take this dam thing apart? The top obviously is attached to the bottom but it seems to be attached from the inside and there is no way to get to it!
Thanks in advance for any help - it is much appreciated.
Bathtub Removal
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
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Hi & welcome. First the doors come off, you may have to lift the top bar/rail up to remove the doors ( they will lift with it) if you can not remove the doors alone.
Next the tub surround, that is usually glued in place so plan on replacing it. Then the tub, once the surround is removed you should see the mounting screws. If the front of the tub has a removable panel usually that is unlocked by picking the tub up slightly. Greg
Next the tub surround, that is usually glued in place so plan on replacing it. Then the tub, once the surround is removed you should see the mounting screws. If the front of the tub has a removable panel usually that is unlocked by picking the tub up slightly. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
Hi Greg.
There is no tub surround. There is no removable panel. No glue. It is in 2 peices, one top peice(about 9 inches in hieght) and the rest is one LARGE peice. Only thing i can get to in front are 2 screws that are screwed into the wall through the flange (you can see the flange in the pictures) on the top peice - one on each side - and 3 screws per side on the bottom.
There is no tub surround. There is no removable panel. No glue. It is in 2 peices, one top peice(about 9 inches in hieght) and the rest is one LARGE peice. Only thing i can get to in front are 2 screws that are screwed into the wall through the flange (you can see the flange in the pictures) on the top peice - one on each side - and 3 screws per side on the bottom.
I have never worked on a tub enclosure with a top like that but fiberglass units like these will usually have a couple of holes per side, in the flange that returns towards the wall, that you insert a plastic notched pin into. These keep the parts lined up. Getting them out intact would be a real chore if not impossible. If your shower/bath unit has these pins, you could cut them easily with a Dremel Multi-max tool, which is like a Fein Multi-Master. The dremel is a lessor tool for about $100, about 3 times less than a Fein. I have a Dremel and I work it hard all the time. Great tool. You may be able to cut the pin with a hack saw blade, but I would think there is more of a chance of scratching the wall unit. If the used steel bolts to put the units together, you would probably have to demo the unit to get it out.
I would then remove the screws on the flange and then try carefully prying on the wall unit to see if it is glued in permanently. I would imagine that they had to use some type adhesive on the back side. I the wall unit is minimally glued, you should still be able to pry it loose.
When removing shower/bath units, it is always a possibility that they will get damaged. You should be prepared to get a new wall unit in case that happens.
There is also a possibility that the tub is "mud set", meaning that the cavity under the tub was loaded up with mortar and the tub pressed into place. Sometimes these tubs can be difficult or impossible to remove intact.
Like I said, I have never seen one of these units, so I could be wrong. But I am pretty sure that screws, adhesive and those pins holds this unit to the wall and together.
JD
I would then remove the screws on the flange and then try carefully prying on the wall unit to see if it is glued in permanently. I would imagine that they had to use some type adhesive on the back side. I the wall unit is minimally glued, you should still be able to pry it loose.
When removing shower/bath units, it is always a possibility that they will get damaged. You should be prepared to get a new wall unit in case that happens.
There is also a possibility that the tub is "mud set", meaning that the cavity under the tub was loaded up with mortar and the tub pressed into place. Sometimes these tubs can be difficult or impossible to remove intact.
Like I said, I have never seen one of these units, so I could be wrong. But I am pretty sure that screws, adhesive and those pins holds this unit to the wall and together.
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
Thanks for the reply JD
I already tried taking the top two screws out on the top. This thing is pretty stiff and it doesn't flex much at all so i cant really pry on it to even look behind but i can see that there is no adhesive. I also tried hammering a screwdriver into the seam to see if i could get it to pop loose but it's pretty solid and won't budge. I am sure the top is sealed to the bottom with some type of adhesive somehow but i have no idea if it is bolted together also or with pins like you said, it may even be riveted for all i know.
I am afriad of having to demolish this thing to get it out because it's still a good tub/shower, it's just the floor that is bad.
I will hold out hope that someone on here can tell me for sure how this thing comes apart so i can get it out without destroying it.
I already tried taking the top two screws out on the top. This thing is pretty stiff and it doesn't flex much at all so i cant really pry on it to even look behind but i can see that there is no adhesive. I also tried hammering a screwdriver into the seam to see if i could get it to pop loose but it's pretty solid and won't budge. I am sure the top is sealed to the bottom with some type of adhesive somehow but i have no idea if it is bolted together also or with pins like you said, it may even be riveted for all i know.
I am afriad of having to demolish this thing to get it out because it's still a good tub/shower, it's just the floor that is bad.
I will hold out hope that someone on here can tell me for sure how this thing comes apart so i can get it out without destroying it.
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
if the floor is shot, the underbelly probably is too....
is there any way to fix the floor from below and not disturb the tub? are the joists shot, or could you put 3/4 inch plywood between the joists, lift with a jack, and secure to the joists?
you could take a peak from below....pull down a little of the rotted flooring... if the tub is set in mortar, you are out of luck anyways, and might as well start the demo.....
only other thing, is there access from behind the tub? I had one that had a closet behind it, with paneling... if you have either wall accessible, could you open the wall and look for fasteners that way?
Greg and JD won't say it... but if they haven't seen one of these tub set ups, no one else is likely to have either, and you might want to try their approach... mental equivalent of bite the bullet.....but lets see if repair from below gets shot down first lol
Brenda (OH)
is there any way to fix the floor from below and not disturb the tub? are the joists shot, or could you put 3/4 inch plywood between the joists, lift with a jack, and secure to the joists?
you could take a peak from below....pull down a little of the rotted flooring... if the tub is set in mortar, you are out of luck anyways, and might as well start the demo.....
only other thing, is there access from behind the tub? I had one that had a closet behind it, with paneling... if you have either wall accessible, could you open the wall and look for fasteners that way?
Greg and JD won't say it... but if they haven't seen one of these tub set ups, no one else is likely to have either, and you might want to try their approach... mental equivalent of bite the bullet.....but lets see if repair from below gets shot down first lol
Brenda (OH)
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
Well obviously i am gonna have to come up through the bottom of the floor to do some work under there. I don't see how i am gonna be able to remove the old flooring from underneath but my dad seems to think i might be able too also. The joists seem fine-at least from what i able to see, some of it i just cant get to at the moment.
The floor of the tub has a little give to it so i don't think it is set in mortar.
The side of the trailer is behind the tub so ya i dont think i wanna be trying to remove the entire side of the trailer to get to it because it would literally be almost the entire length of the trailer that would have to be removed--no access panel. Makes me wonder why they didn't leave a panel there that could be removed.
Anyway until stuff drys out underneath a little more i wont be trying to cut up through the bottom-it's a total mess - i've even got a beam completely rusted off under there- UGH!! For now i am just patching the floor in front of it so i can still use the tub and the toilet but it is gonna have to come out of there eventually.
The floor of the tub has a little give to it so i don't think it is set in mortar.
The side of the trailer is behind the tub so ya i dont think i wanna be trying to remove the entire side of the trailer to get to it because it would literally be almost the entire length of the trailer that would have to be removed--no access panel. Makes me wonder why they didn't leave a panel there that could be removed.
Anyway until stuff drys out underneath a little more i wont be trying to cut up through the bottom-it's a total mess - i've even got a beam completely rusted off under there- UGH!! For now i am just patching the floor in front of it so i can still use the tub and the toilet but it is gonna have to come out of there eventually.
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
ok, if no access from , is one end installed against an interior wall? how would that wall look in wainscoating? lol.
what I am getting at is, if that wall is where the plumbing is (faucet and shower diverter etc) next time you need to replace a faucet, you probably would be cutting an access panel, so why not cut a big one, and see if the fasteners are visible....
I know it sounds like a big job, and it is, but pulling out the toilet, vanity, and tub, and any bad wall board, and redoing the bathroom from the studs, gives such a great result.... solid from base up, no hidden molding materials left, toilet doesn't move, etc... and you can reconfigure stuff if you want, add a little storage, lights, a medicine cabinet.... the results are great, especially if you are keeping the home long term....
Brenda (OH)
what I am getting at is, if that wall is where the plumbing is (faucet and shower diverter etc) next time you need to replace a faucet, you probably would be cutting an access panel, so why not cut a big one, and see if the fasteners are visible....
I know it sounds like a big job, and it is, but pulling out the toilet, vanity, and tub, and any bad wall board, and redoing the bathroom from the studs, gives such a great result.... solid from base up, no hidden molding materials left, toilet doesn't move, etc... and you can reconfigure stuff if you want, add a little storage, lights, a medicine cabinet.... the results are great, especially if you are keeping the home long term....
Brenda (OH)
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
That is just it, getting in to get a look means cutting through something - wheter it be a wall or the floor.
At this point i think the floor is my best bet cuz its all gonna have to come out from the bottom up.
At this point i think the floor is my best bet cuz its all gonna have to come out from the bottom up.
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
cutting the first access panel is the hardest... I had to cut into a wall recently in a home just to get access to where the pipes come up from the underbelly to the water heater, to put spray foam insulation in.... it was a highway for the mice....
A piece of 1/4 luann, paint, and a strip of molding, and you have it back together in a short time...
of course, you can go the drywall, joint compound, etc route... I just would rather use the air compressor and staple up luann....
good luck with the floor repair.... it is a common repair for mobile homes unfortunately...
Brenda (OH)
A piece of 1/4 luann, paint, and a strip of molding, and you have it back together in a short time...
of course, you can go the drywall, joint compound, etc route... I just would rather use the air compressor and staple up luann....
good luck with the floor repair.... it is a common repair for mobile homes unfortunately...
Brenda (OH)
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
Thanks - i just took the toilet up-what a mess under there! the floor is the easy part though-its the tub im worried about.
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
i want to avoid that. Hopefully i can see something when i come up through underneath. I'll let ya'll know.
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Brenda (OH)
- Posts: 325
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am
here is a diagram for framing out the new toilet flange in an existing floor
https://www.mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/v ... php?t=3586&
please don't take this the wrong way... but the easy way to do thisfloor repair usually is to take the tub, toilet and vanity out if it is a small bathroom, and you have found ruined flooring under both the toilet and the tub.....
but being creativs can work too....it just may take more time and effort.....
if you have a habitat for humanity resale store near you, you might find a replacement tub very low cost if needed.... just check if you have space for a 60 inch tub, that is house standard size, and mobile homes are often 54 inches (guys, did I get those dimensions right?)
Brenda (OH)
https://www.mobilehomerepair.com/phpbb/v ... php?t=3586&
please don't take this the wrong way... but the easy way to do thisfloor repair usually is to take the tub, toilet and vanity out if it is a small bathroom, and you have found ruined flooring under both the toilet and the tub.....
but being creativs can work too....it just may take more time and effort.....
if you have a habitat for humanity resale store near you, you might find a replacement tub very low cost if needed.... just check if you have space for a 60 inch tub, that is house standard size, and mobile homes are often 54 inches (guys, did I get those dimensions right?)
Brenda (OH)
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DeathDealer
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 4:36 pm
Thanks - i just pulled the toilet up today. i am in the process of replacing the floor under it now. After i get that done i am gonna start tearing stuff out on the underbelly and see if i can see anything from underneath. It's a waterlogged mess under there. ICK! I'm starting to think maybe the drain in the tub may be leaking. I will find out once i get under there to get a good look.
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