Replacing the outside Access door to Hot Water Heater

[Sharon Northeast]

Any suggestions of where to buy one? I went online and found a couple places and they are about $129.99 and $28 to ship to NH. Looks like the sizes are 20x60 or 23x60. I just went and measured and it looks to be the 23x60. Do I measure the actual door? These two must be the standard sizes? I'm assuming it's pretty simple to replace, anything I should consider before going ahead with this? Appreciate any input. Thanks in Advance.

[Brenda OH]

i made one, I covered the wood with reinforced fiberglass board to keep it somewhat dry, and installed insulation on the back of the door.

the first try was plain wood, it warped before I got a chance to paint or seal it.

if I was doing this again, I might buy one for the time savings. if I was making one, I might consider al most all water proof material.... fiber glass reinforced panel, pressure treated wood square as the frame, 1/2 foam board insulation pieces, put in the middle of the frame build up to fill the frame 3 or 4 layers? caulk edge of frame to the fiberglass board, put a diverter at the roof line or right above the door to pitch the water out from the wall to keep water from seeping through the door....

Brenda (OH)

[Sharon Northeast]

Well aren't you resourceful Brenda. I'll stick with the time savings of ordering one. But what a good idea on the diverter I'll look into that as well.

[JD]

The 23x60 is a common size but there are several sizes. If anyone was to make their own door, be sure that the door is either made of fire resistant materials like aluminum, or with a wood door, have the inside of the door lined with fire resistant sheetrock. Also be sure the door is vented at the bottom.

When installing the door, it may be close but not quite the exact same fit. If a small amount of wood framing will be exposed, you can add some type of angle metal to the edge of the rough opening. If you have aluminum siding, use aluminum angle metal. For a long lasting, waterproof install, I would use Butyl putty tape behind the nail/screw flange. Seems that stores have just about quit carrying window putty tape. But you can get putty tape, including the butyl rubber type, at RV stores with a parts department. You can also find it online.

JD

[Sharon Northeast]

The 23x60 is a common size but there are several sizes. Also be sure the door is vented at the bottom.

When installing the door, it may be close but not quite the exact same fit. If a small amount of wood framing will be exposed, you can add some type of angle metal to the edge of the rough opening. If you have aluminum siding, use aluminum angle metal. For a long lasting, waterproof install, I would use Butyl putty tape behind the nail/screw flange. Seems that stores have just about quit carrying window putty tape. But you can get putty tape, including the butyl rubber type, at RV stores with a parts department. You can also find it online.

JD

JD,
I've seen only 20", 21" and 23" x60 for doors. My door now is not vented. I see online you can get either or. I was going to get the same door non vented. What is the reasong for vented vs. non-vented? I have aluminum siding. I will purchase the putty tape, caulking and screws that were suggested for the door installation. Does the metal frame come out ? This is all new to me.

[JD]

As I understand it, the non-vented doors are for closed vents systems. Atmospheric water heaters (the $300-$400) types require air from outside the home. I am going by memory here, but I believe it is a HUD requirement for atmospheric water heaters. So don't take my suggestion as the final word. I don't have time to look it up this morning. You may want to ask the manufacturer of the water heater.
JD

[Robert]

IF it is gas and atmospheric intake as JD said, it will need to be vented.



Thanks,
Robert