humidity thermostat

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perfecto

great site glad i found it. i just moved into an older 79 12x58 2 bed mobile aprox 700 sq ft with a 3yr old payne mod # pa3znao2n4000aa ac only. there is a heating unit in the center of the house where an ac duct is attached to. the livingroom has two ducts and one return, every-other room has one duct. inside the heat closet is a squirelcage fan to move warm air when it becomes time to use it using the same ductwork as the ac, the heat closet is closed with a metal door and not letting the cold air out so i lifted up the squirelcage fan and put a piece of lexan under it to block the duct which allows for a stronger air flow from the other ducts, is this ok, it cools things down much faster. i went to change the return filter and with the one i bought it would hardly cool the house down, too much restriction? so i bought some of that blue filter stuff and doubled it up now things cool down fine, is this ok? i replaced the old thermostat with a digital one, underneath there is a honeywell %humidity switch ranging from off to on with numbers in between 80-20 when i put it on 40 the ac shuts off, it will only come back on when i set it to 30%, what is this for? i keep the thermostat at 78. last question...i have the fan set to automatic what is the advantage to having the fan on all the time or on automatic. i am so so sorry for the long post but am new to this and want to be green as possible. its been in the 90's im home all day my bill averages 150. i also live in sw florida. thank you for your time, oh yeah no roofover.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

A little confused on the not letting cold air out, blocking the duct for stronger airflow, etc.. Mobile home ducts are thin, small and not designed to handle pressures greater than what's there, so closing off part of duct to increase flow out of others is not best idea.

The switch on t-stat sounds like a humidity switch which keeps a/c running when needed to keep humidity in a set range as your a/c running is what removes humidity and cools home.

Not sure which filter material you refer to, if it's hog's hair material, it's fine , but shouldn't need to double it.

I prefer to keep blower on auto and use ceiling fans to keep air stirring in between cycles.

It also saves on the blower motor lifespan.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
perfecto

the duct i blocked off is the main heater duct, when the new ac was put in they hooked the ac duct work up to this so the heat uses the same duct as the ac which really does nothing cold air just circulates around this closed closet in the hallway, looks like it WAS just used for heat. i bought a 16 inch floor fan hope this helps till i can get ceiling fans installed, blue stuff must be hog hair so i took you sugestion on that. thanks robert, im humbly grateful.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

You're very welcome, happy to help. This is where not being there is a huge disadvantage.

It is normal for MH heat and a/c to use same blower motor for circulation and same ductwork for the pathway.

Do you have a split system a/c where a-coil is installed above or below furnace and you have an outside condensing unit ?


Or, do you have a self-contained or packaged unit a/c where all components are outside ?


If the airflow doesn't leave the closet during a/c, does it do same in heat mode ?


Can you post some pics of this set up ?


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
perfecto

packaged unit a/c where all components are outside
if i remove the lexan i put under the squirrel cage, turn the outside ac off and turn the inside heat heat will come from the vents, ill try to draw some pics don't have a cammera
perfecto

robert, i made some wiring adjustments i disconnected the humidity thing that was connected to the old thermostat all the old stuff is gone, installed a new digital thermostat and placed a fan pointing at the thermostat seems to help some, the thermostat is in the hottest part of the house... should it be? during the hottest time of the day the unit used to run for 30 mins off for 5 on for 30 and so on, now its off for 10min and on for 4min...it cycles like this all day maybe 6 times an hour and as the sun sinks it cycles less and less... not sure if this is efficient and saving some cash what do you think?
thanks
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Ok, I gotcha now. During a/c mode, you should have a return in middle of home with a flex duct running to outside unit.

Then another flex duct from outside unit back to home an attached to main duct trunkline.

They "should" have installed a close off damper under the furnace to stop the cooled air from coming up through furnace, it should ALL come out the floor registers from same duct as heating.

So, you can either buy and install the damper, or do as you did with the lexan.

Your solution is fine.


During heat, mode, remove the lexan, cover the return vent in LR for the a/c, open closet door as the furnace door should be louvered and serve as heat return.


Also, check and see if they installed a close off damper supply connector to the trunkline where the supply duct from a/c connects.


If not, you'll lose heated air during heating mode as it will go down the supply duct to outside condensing unit.


During a/c mode, unit should run a good bit during hot times, should run more than being off.

Don't blow a fan on the t-stat, let the unit run. It has to run to remove humidity and that is what cools the home.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
perfecto

yup thats it, i cant seem to find a close off damper supply connector to the trunkline where the supply duct from a/c connects. there is a squirrel cage sending air through the heating coils, where would the damper be? if there is not one is there a way to jury rig something if i need the heat? i may only need it for a short time here in south fl, i can deal with heavy clothes for a while but id rather not, see i broke both my ankles and have severe arthritis which brought me here and im only 50 go figure
regards

ed
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi Ed,


Where the supply flex connects to main duct trunkline, there is an actual connector that connects to trunkline and has the damper built in. Then you attach flex to end collar.


You can get them at hvac supply houses or sheet metal shops or most mobile home supplies.


We could most likely order one in if needed.



I know all about the arthritus thing, been doing hvac for 29+ years, but was also a cop for 8 years at same time. Was retired on disability from an injury as a cop and have spinal, neck and back problems with an abundance of arthritus.


That reduced amount of field service work and led me to this job as a supplement where I use my brain more than my broan.


I'm 49, will be 50 next June, so I'm feeling for ya for sure.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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