Sloppy metal roof with itty-bitty rain gutter

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nestsman
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:06 pm

I stated earlier that I thought I might have a rolled metal roof. Now that I have a photo can someone confirm if this is correct? I'm fairly certain this is not the original based on how sloppy the tar looks. In several places the tar filled the tiny little rain gutter. This forces water over the edge at that point and down the pressed wood siding, which has led to some water damage over time.

Is it possible that there might be old fiberglass shingles under this metal roof? If so, I think I would actually prefer peeling this crappy metal roof off and redoing the shingles. If you experts advise against this idea, then I need to at least buy some "real" rain gutters to stop water damage on the exterior pressed wood panels.

Thoughts?

roof.JPG
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JD
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Indeed, you have a rolled metal roof. There are no shingles under it. There's not much of anything under it. I would not remove this metal as it is part of the engineering for the entire home. Any approved mobile home roofing would go over the existing metal.

The roof looks like it has not been truly coated, ever. There is no elastomeric coatings on the edges when they are new. The fresh install with butyl tape and caulk will usually last 8-10 years. After that, you need to seal the edges, ridge cap and vents periodically. I do not seal perfectly good seams. That is asking for unnecessary damage from rust. Seams like the one you are almost pointing at will not leak unless damaged by impact or rust.

The old caulking that you are pointing at should be removed and reapplied or use the elastomeric stuff in the cans over the j-channel and up about 4" onto the "flat" part of the roof. Caulking would be a one step process, the elastomeric paint like product should have 3-4 coats at least. I clean off the old caulk and any rust with a 9" grinder and a braided wire cup brush. Anything less and the job get's tougher, but still not too hard.

I would install the gutters tight underneath the j-channel. The j-channel is needed to help hold the rolled roof in place, along with some roofing staples that the j-channel is sealing up for you.
☯JD♫
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
nestsman
Posts: 158
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:06 pm

If I'm understanding you correctly, and I install rain gutters right underneath the j-channel, then I shouldn't have to worry about the black roof caulk that is clogging up the j-channel. Right? Because now the rain gutter will be handling the water.

Also, is a rolled roof supportive enough for me to walk on it? Since it's never been coated before, would you recommend that I apply a white heat-reflective type paint/coating?

Thanks!
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Greg
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Standard gutters will slip in right under & behind the J channels. I would bend them down so they dump into the gutters faster.

You can usually walk on a metal roof, but try to stay on the trusses. White reflective coating is the way to go, but if you do it on a sunny day make sure you have a good pair of dark sunglasses on.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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JD
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The black roof caulk looks like it should be stripped and reapplied, or stripped and sealed with the white elsatomeric coating you mentioned. The drip rail needs to be sealed when recoating edges. The black roof caulk can be replaced with butyl rubber caulk (that's what it looks like you have now) or a good polyurethane caulk. I use Tremco, Vulkem 116.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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