Hi All
About 3wks ago I had a new Nordyne (Maytag) M1MB090ABW installed to replace the problematic MGBB-090ABPQ-06 Nordyne unit. At first it had 1 loud click (relay/valve?) between the inducer running and the main blower coming on. Now it clicks 10-12 times. This morning it was clicking continuously while the furnace was running. I pulled the cover and its the valve that is clicking.
I opened the inspection door to inspect the flame and flames nearly roasted my fingers off. Bright yellow flame front, possibly due to the increased air from opening the small door?
I'm getting soooooooo tired of issues with furnaces. Maybe should have bought a Coleman or any other brand instead of another Nordyne.
Is this indicative of a bad valve? Or some other issue?
Thanks!!!
Valve Clicking While Running
Checked it last night. Was not set up for propane. Appears the installer also made off with the propane orifice. (Somebody is going to get a phone call and Excedrin headache #43 today)
Luckily I stripped the parts I had recently replaced from the old furnace and have a #36 orifice.
Valve is now having problems keeping the flame lit.
Luckily I stripped the parts I had recently replaced from the old furnace and have a #36 orifice.
Valve is now having problems keeping the flame lit.
OK, I see that the conversion is simply flipping the LP/NAT cap.
Did some more troubleshooting. Glad I did before buying a valve. There is only 15.4v going to the valve instead of 24. The transformer is putting out a solid 27-28. Checking the plug harness coming out of the board I'm only getting 15.4v, sometimes the full 27-28 and it'll fire and run fine.
Relay sticking? Looks to be one of the 'G' 24v relays on the board. Anyone know which one controls the 24v to the valve? Should be an easy replacement (too bad they don't appear to be socketed!).
Did some more troubleshooting. Glad I did before buying a valve. There is only 15.4v going to the valve instead of 24. The transformer is putting out a solid 27-28. Checking the plug harness coming out of the board I'm only getting 15.4v, sometimes the full 27-28 and it'll fire and run fine.
Relay sticking? Looks to be one of the 'G' 24v relays on the board. Anyone know which one controls the 24v to the valve? Should be an easy replacement (too bad they don't appear to be socketed!).
Nordyne told me to have my service tech contact them for a replacement part.
I'll just have to order a new board, they're only $104 shipped, cheaper than it would cost me to have a tech diagnose it and get the part from Nordyne. At least I'll be able to replace the 24v relays on the bad board and have a virtually new board sitting on the shelf for the future.
I'll just have to order a new board, they're only $104 shipped, cheaper than it would cost me to have a tech diagnose it and get the part from Nordyne. At least I'll be able to replace the 24v relays on the bad board and have a virtually new board sitting on the shelf for the future.
Ok, new board installed ...... same thing. Valve starts clicking, flame ignites, valve continues clicking, flame goes out after about 30sec.
Board does have 24v going to the valve now.
Transformer putting out consistent 27v.
Anything else that could cause this?
Board does have 24v going to the valve now.
Transformer putting out consistent 27v.
Anything else that could cause this?
As sad as it sounds you could have many things causing this problem on a new furnace. Here's a quick run down of what can cause that flame to go out during the heating cycle.
1. Insufficient oxygen in combustion chamber.
a. Check to be sure air intake assembly is clear or debris. Remove black motor at right of unit along with 4" intake pipe. Be sure there is nothing blocking any part of the assembly. Reinstall with silicone caulk around all joints so when blower comes on it will not cause a change in pressure within the air intake system.
b. Check intake and exhaust connection at top of furnace. Pull screw on outer roof jack pipe, 8", and slide up about 8"-10" so you can access inner pipe. Look at inner pipe to be sure it is fully seated on combustion chamber exhaust collar. Slide that up and using a mirror be sure no debris fell into either of these upper furnace assemblies during installation. If nothing found slide inner pipe down until it is FULLY seated on exhaust collar on furnace. Then slide outer pipe down until flush with cabinet top and reinstall screw.
2. Flame not being sensed correctly.
a. Igniter has hairline crack in it. These will work to ignite furnace but will lose ability to prove flame. This one is a bitch because it is intermittent in nature.
b. Improper ground in home and subsequently to furnace. Run a seperate ground to your furnace and attach it to a known good ground. If one is not available drive in an 8' ground rod and attach to that. This is a vital part of the flame sensing operation!!
3. Furnace goes out ONLY when blower is running.
a. Run unit with doors removed, if it solves the problem, the seals on the intake pipe and intake motor are not good and need to be redone. See above.
1. Insufficient oxygen in combustion chamber.
a. Check to be sure air intake assembly is clear or debris. Remove black motor at right of unit along with 4" intake pipe. Be sure there is nothing blocking any part of the assembly. Reinstall with silicone caulk around all joints so when blower comes on it will not cause a change in pressure within the air intake system.
b. Check intake and exhaust connection at top of furnace. Pull screw on outer roof jack pipe, 8", and slide up about 8"-10" so you can access inner pipe. Look at inner pipe to be sure it is fully seated on combustion chamber exhaust collar. Slide that up and using a mirror be sure no debris fell into either of these upper furnace assemblies during installation. If nothing found slide inner pipe down until it is FULLY seated on exhaust collar on furnace. Then slide outer pipe down until flush with cabinet top and reinstall screw.
2. Flame not being sensed correctly.
a. Igniter has hairline crack in it. These will work to ignite furnace but will lose ability to prove flame. This one is a bitch because it is intermittent in nature.
b. Improper ground in home and subsequently to furnace. Run a seperate ground to your furnace and attach it to a known good ground. If one is not available drive in an 8' ground rod and attach to that. This is a vital part of the flame sensing operation!!
3. Furnace goes out ONLY when blower is running.
a. Run unit with doors removed, if it solves the problem, the seals on the intake pipe and intake motor are not good and need to be redone. See above.
Thanks for the excellent advice Dale!
I had a different tech look at it Sat afternoon. Looks like the roof jack is once again the culprit. He bypassed the pressure switch and it runs fine. The inducer tube/motor were clear. We think there was a buildup of soot in the roof jack due to the installer not setting the valve for LP use. The installer said the roof jack I got was too short, so he cut a section of the old roof jack to extend it. I doubt he cleaned it out, so it was probably partially plugged with soot already. I checked the roof vent and it is solid, pure black. So, it looks like I'll have to replace the roof jack with the next larger size.
I had a different tech look at it Sat afternoon. Looks like the roof jack is once again the culprit. He bypassed the pressure switch and it runs fine. The inducer tube/motor were clear. We think there was a buildup of soot in the roof jack due to the installer not setting the valve for LP use. The installer said the roof jack I got was too short, so he cut a section of the old roof jack to extend it. I doubt he cleaned it out, so it was probably partially plugged with soot already. I checked the roof vent and it is solid, pure black. So, it looks like I'll have to replace the roof jack with the next larger size.
Roof jack too short for sure!! Probably pulling exhaust gases back through on the intake side due to a bad seal between the old and new parts. There is a little difference in diameter between the old stuff and the new stuff on the roof jacks. Look into getting a proper roof jack extension kit. Usually cheaper than an entire roof jack and since it is manufactured for the new equipment it WILL fit correctly. Problem solved!!
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