Vapor barrior behind drywall or not?

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Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

I may have asked this before, not sure.

In replacing rotten wall studs and rim joist and sistering a couple of floor joists in bedroom and installing 2 new styled windows.

The wall in presently paneled. There is no exterior sheathing or barrier, only vinyl siding and some insulation between us and the weather. not to mention you can see daylight at the floor if you push on the wall.

Here in SC we have tons of moisture, so I thought it would help to keep the moisture on the other side of the wall, especially since it will be dry walled instead of paneled. I have a big roll of 6 mil poly.

I will have the work done by locals. I'm getting estimates now. "Andy-on Call".

Any thoughts?
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
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Greg S
Posts: 541
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:13 am
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada

Definitely install vapour barrier any time you open a wall or add any new surfacing, Everything you can do to keep moisture out of insulation is a good thing.
I have just recently drywalled over all the paneling in one of my places and installed and sealed plastic over everything first. There was no existing barrier at all under any paneling although there was in some ceilings I did.
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bobfather99
Posts: 195
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2009 2:09 am
Location: Indiana

Without a vapor barrier, moisture will cause mold, rot, and can be an invitation for termites/carpenter ants. Make sure all repairs are properly taken care of, vapor-barrier wise.
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JD
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I would also use a product like Tyvek House Wrap on the exterior of the framing or sheathing if you decide to install that. The 6 mil plastic would trap moisture and could cause a lot of problems.

JD
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
escombs
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 5:09 pm

house wrap is the way to go . You don't want to use anything that will not allow the house to breathe. Moisture will collect especially where you live . I once insualted houses for a living and got that question a few times . With the house wrap and tar paper backing of the insulation you will get enough and proper vapor barrier protection.
Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

Well, the new wall is in and dry walled along with 2 new construction windows and Tyvek.
"Andy Oncall" did the work, with my assistance. Half the price of the other bedroom wall and window replacement. Very pleased with their work.
Thanks for the assistance.

A side note:
If you hire someone to install a window try to see that they do it more or less by the book.

This installation was just OK, but not by the book.

The 2 windows (that I bought) were already nailed into the framing when I noticed there was no Tyvek and rubber membrane installed around it first.
If THEY had paid for the windows, any damage from ripping them out and re-doing them properly would have been on them I suppose.

Tyvek was installed after, but he did do some caulking and it is more then the original wall ever had to begin with.

He was conscientious though and I would have him back, but I would observe closer to be sure each step was done properly.

This is what happens when you aren't physically able to do the job yourself.

Old age sucks.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
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