Few questions before I relevel our home

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ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I need to relevel our home, my girlfriend bought it about 8 years ago and had it moved here. Its never been releveled and I believe there are a few signs that it may need to be done. I have been searching this site for the last couple hours about releveling and I also have the manual I bought from this site and I'm pretty capable when it comes to construction, just these mobile homes seem to play a game of their own so just want to check a few things before I start.

First, I have a topcon rotating laser. It's not one of those 100 dollar specials, they are around 1500 dollars new, I used to work for a company installing accoustical ceilings in hospitals and schools. This is what I plan on using and I don't see any problems with using that. Going to set it in the middle of the trailer and let it spin and measure up to the frame. Does anyone see any issues with using a rotary laser for this do I have to buy a water level?

Second, I am going to have to buy a 20ton bottle jack or two from HF. I have a half dozen floor jacks for cars but they are 3ton and under and I don't own a bottle jack. So I guess it's time to buy at least one. Should I pick up two right away or can the job be done with one?

Third, jack plates. I found some online but they are 45 bucks after shipping. I can get some channel steel from the local steel supply house and weld a little doughnut on them for the jack to sit in like the ones you buy. I will have to get under and measure the frame to see what size channel stock I will need. Any issues with this idea?

Fourth, shims. I don't think they sell what I need around here, there is a mobile home store about an hour away but I think it will be easier and cheaper to just order them online. I found some plastic shims for .37 a piece which I would think would be best. Here is a link to them, http://www.mobilehomedepotmi.com/instal ... stall.html. They also sell oak and "wood" shims for pretty cheap. What is my best option here?

I think this is all the questions I have now but I'm sure there will be some more before I start!
Thanks for any advice on this stuff and feel free to add anything else you can think of.
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Greg
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Ponch, Don't take this wrong, but your $1500 laser WILL NOT work as well as a $15 garden hose. Why? the laser can not see through or around the pipes & piers under the home.

Had you used a laser to find the tops of the piers before the home was placed than it would be fine, but there are just too many things to block the beam now.

A water level it the only way to get an accurate reading.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

Thanks Greg, no wrong way taken. That's why I asked, I thought I could set it a foot or so below the frame in the middle and let it spin. But I guess I didn't take into account the two sewer drain pipes coming from each end to the connection in the middle. I will make a water level and check things out.

Any advice on shims and making a jacking plate so the frame doesnt' bend? In my searching of past threads there was a guy that said his frame bent from not using a jacking plate.
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Greg S
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Location: Kingston Ontario Canada

I have had frames bend under load, they are not constructed of very thick metal. My solution was simply to use foot long pieces of angle iron the thickest gauge I could find. I used 2' angle iron lengths 1/4' -3/8' thick. I construct 1 foot square double thick 4 X 4 PT "mats as jack pads. Orient the 4 X 4 layers in opposite directions.
As far as jacks are concerned I always only use one but a second may come in handy.
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ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

Greg S wrote:I have had frames bend under load, they are not constructed of very thick metal. My solution was simply to use foot long pieces of angle iron the thickest gauge I could find. I used 2' angle iron lengths 1/4' -3/8' thick. I construct 1 foot square double thick 4 X 4 PT "mats as jack pads. Orient the 4 X 4 layers in opposite directions.
As far as jacks are concerned I always only use one but a second may come in handy.
Thanks Greg S. I have a bunch of angle iron I can use so that's good. I have tons of 4x4s from past projects so I'm good for pads. I'm thinking I will just get one jack for now and see what I can get done with that. Harborfreight has their 20ton jacks on sale for 40 bucks and they get good reviews.

Just out of curiousity what does it usually cost to re level a single wide 16x70(I think!) mobile home? I know it can varry from place to place but just wondering what it costs to have hire someone to do it?
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Greg
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My advise is to make your water level and crawl under and see just how far off it is. Take and plot the piers on paper and write you readings down as you go. I also use soap stone and write it on the beam next to the pier, that should only take an hour or so.

You may be surprised when you get the readings, our's had sat over 10 yrs. and was less than 2" off in areas. (I'm on dirt not a pad)

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

Greg wrote:My advise is to make your water level and crawl under and see just how far off it is. Take and plot the piers on paper and write you readings down as you go. I also use soap stone and write it on the beam next to the pier, that should only take an hour or so.

You may be surprised when you get the readings, our's had sat over 10 yrs. and was less than 2" off in areas. (I'm on dirt not a pad)

Greg
That's my plan Greg. I'm pretty sure it's off in a few places, have a few cracks in the ceiling, some siding is wavy, etc. Which may or may not mean it's out of level but my guess is that it does need to be leveled.

I just like to do as much homework as possible before hand so that if it does need to be leveled I can do it all in the same day instead of crawling under one day and then again another day to level it. I don't mind spending 40 bucks on a jack to have around, I'm sure I will use it sometime. I just want to be ready to get the job done if needed and sit back and enjoy a couple drinks afterwards!
ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

I got a water level together today and will make some time to crawl under the trailer this weekend. Going to be fun it's supposed to be in the 90s with high humidity so will be a day in paradise!
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Greg
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Throw a fan in the opening to get some air movement. Also keep an eye out for kinks in the hose, they will throw the readings way off.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
dedou
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 6:25 am
Location: Central Vermont

Hey Ponch,
How did it go, if you got to it? We're looking at releveling our mh as well, and were getting ourselves worked up to do so when I had to replace our front P.T. stairs. I'd love
to hear more about your experience with the leveling with one jack, angle irons (what are they and how do I get some?) and P.T. 4x4's. Thanks much!
Devon
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ponch37300
Posts: 622
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:12 pm
Location: wisconsin

dedou wrote:Hey Ponch,
How did it go, if you got to it? We're looking at releveling our mh as well, and were getting ourselves worked up to do so when I had to replace our front P.T. stairs. I'd love
to hear more about your experience with the leveling with one jack, angle irons (what are they and how do I get some?) and P.T. 4x4's. Thanks much!
I haven't got to it yet, was 101 degrees yesterday with high humidity! I did pick up the jack the other day, http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-hyd ... 66482.html.

The angle iron is just a piece of metal. I searched the forum the last couple weeks and also online about trailer leveling and there was a few guys that said they bent their trailer frame by only using a jack. Since the jack is picking up the whole weight on one spot about 1.5". The angle iron will distribute the weight over a two foot spot or so to keep from bending the frame. I don't have any experience so not sure how easy it is to bend the frame but I don't want to take a chance! Here is a link and if you scroll down you will see the "jacking plate", http://www.mobilehomedepotmi.com/parts_ ... tools.html. Just a piece of metal to spread the weight out so the frame won't bend. You can order one from that site if you want they are only 31 bucks, not sure about shipping.

The pressure treated 4x4 should work fine for cribbing to lift the jack up to a height where it will reach the frame. I've been thinking about making some wood "blocks" out of 2x4s. I have a jointer and planer and could go buy a bunch of 2x4s and make them square and glue them up to make a nice solid 16x16" or so block of wood. I think this would be more stable than stacking 4x4s.

I will post more once I do this, it's supposed to cool off a little the end of the week.
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