Just got a project: Opinions/Advice Please

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tomc1947
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:11 pm

New to the forum and I'm hoping to get some opinions on my latest adventure.

I just purchased(or should I say was gifted---it's almost free)a used MH and it's a complete gut job.
It's a '64 Buddy, 12x55 with a 8x30 enclosed porch attached(a 3-season room). It has a lot of character when you overlook the rough edges and it will be a lot cheaper to live there when I'm done.

I'm a semi-retired carpenter, so I have a fair idea of what's involved, but I do have a couple of general questions having never worked on a MH before this.

Here's my general plan:
1. The place has 60amp service on fuses(very old). Gona install a 100 amp panel, and run some temp circuts and go from there. I'm gona do this before the power is even connected.
2. Open the plumbing walls and replace the old with PEX. It's a single wet wall for the bath and W/D and about a 20' run to the kitchen. I could move the kitchen, but I like it's location.
3. Fir the walls to 3&1/2, run new electric, insullate and 1/2" drywall.
4. New cabinets, fixtures etc.

The place has central air and GFA heating system that isn't that old(about 10-15years) It's a Red T furnace and I've found out there is a recall on it. I have to deal with that, but I'm thinking I just might fire up the A/C and see if I get lucky. The place has been vacant a little under 2 years.
I'm also planning on augmenting the heat with a ventless gas heater. Anybody have an opinion on those?

Reading about plumbing in a MH, it seems it's normal to run it under the floor but I'm thinking I'm gona bring the service into the space and run the plumbing through the walls. Any reason I can't do it that way? The place is in Indiana and freezing is a issue.

After I open up the walls, is there anything I should do to reinfore the overall structure? Although it is level and plumb.

Hope I didn't ramble too long, but any comments or advice will be truly appreciated.
DCDiva
Posts: 191
Joined: Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:16 pm

Welcome to the group!
A free MH is the way to go! I am not sure how a 1964 was built but with DIY skills anyone can redo a MH as you load bearing walls are your outside walls you can make the inside any way you want. Please look at my older post and my DIY blog http://myprojects-dcdiva.blogspot.com/s ... -results=5 as my family did a total remodel of 2---1973 Mobile Homes. We ended up replacing everything from floor joist to ceiling rafters and all the walls windows,plumbing,insulation,well everything is new. My husband and son are currently at the 2 nd MH finishing it up--photos soon-- I am working 3 hours away but want to be working with them--many phone calls and sent photos this week to get everything right,yea I am a control freak lol.
Your plan all excellent ideas. We ended up replacing all the walls as it was easier than sistering the 2x4 to the 1x3 and the expense was low under $300 and the time as a little more but we could build a wall as fast as sistering wood,plus easier to insulate,drywall. We had a lot to dry rot and water damage. The strength was gone in the old wood.
Good Luck we are here to help so ask away!
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Hi & welcome. You seem to have a good grasp of what you are doing. I can see 2 possible problems with your plans.

Water lines are traditionally run in the floor for one simple reason, to keep them warm in the winter. They are run near the heat ducts for that reason, moving them to the walls in cold areas could lead to freeze ups.

Beefing up the walls is a good idea, but you will want to add support to rim joists with perimeter blocking to keep the floors from bowing due to extra weight.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
jon24538
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:29 am

In my post above you will see we have very similar projects. I have removed the interior walls and will rebuild with 2x4 framing to allow us to use better material. One thing on mine is that all the tub and shower plumbing was on the outside walls. Since we are replacing both tubs I am moving that plumbing to the interior wall to help prevent freezing. Good Luck, I will be following your project.
tomc1947
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:11 pm

Update and a few questions.
Well, now that the killer heat has gone away, I've had a chance to get a better look at the place and it's general condition.
First off, I learned that it could withstand a 91mph wind gust(June 29th storm). No damage!!!! but a few trees came close.
I opened up the skirting in a couple areas and have found newer rim and floor joists; don't think it's the whole floor but it's at least a good sign that the place has had some care in the past..
I found that they had placed a half inch underlayment over the original plywood in the carpeted areas. I'm gona have to replace some flooring around the toilet and in a small area of the kitchen.

I am planning on adding some additional blocking to the rim joists.
The real good news is that the plumbing is already pex. I'm gona be rearranging it though, which brings up my first question:
Greg, you explained that it's run along the floor ducts to prevent freezing, but the ductwork in this space is a single straight line on the opposite side of the home from the plumbing.
Question is if I wrap the pex and bury it in insullated walls, won't that be enough to prevent freezing? Or just add heat tape?( I have to move the waterheater in order to fit a full sized tub in.)
Also, I have to do a total re-do of the bath. Planning on a new tub. Would really like to install ceramic tub surround but I guess that's a no-no in a MH. Why? Seems to me, if the walls can support the weight of kitchen cabinets they should be able to withstand a little tile.

I've also decided to open up the ceilings and replace the insullation to add some support to the roof trusses and get rid of the old wiring. I'm thinking about installing a suspended ceiling instead of the standard ceiling paneling that MH's use.

If I haven't said so already, thanks for the info and advice. First experience with a MH.
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Just insulating pipes is a double edge sword. You are insulating them against the cold, but if the do freeze they are also insulated against the warmth to thaw them.

Heat tape?? Personally I do not like to use any more than needed, I have heard of far too many fires related to them.

If possible I would try to find out how the original plumbing was run, or I have seen pipes run along the bottom of the wall on top of the floor in a 2x2 wooden box.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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