Interior kitchen wall - strength for cabinets

[Seasider48]

I took out the original/cheap/lightweight/ugly/filthy cabinets when the kitchen was gutted. The subfloor needed repair/replacement and there was no way to save the lower cabinets. I discovered while doing plumbing that the wall studs between the kitchen and bathroom are 1x4. I have serious doubts about this being able to handle my oak cabinets (lucked out on Craigslist). They are very good quality but heavy!!!

The subfloor is now 1.5 inches - repaired existing crudola floor with 3/4 plywood and added 3/4 plywood above that. Only fell through once. The kitchen will have sheet vinyl.

The wall sills that the 1x4s are attached to are also 1x4. So, can I add some 2x4s into the mix? I would have to tear out the paneling. I would then try to sister the 2x4s to some of the existing studs. Would using builder's hardware angles or brackets make a stronger connection? I can work around most of the existing stuff but would wind up with some non-standard measurements. Most of the obstacles are towards the corner with the exterior wall and that will be boxed in, so I don't care if the wall is finished there. That corner contains the drain stacks and incoming supply lines.

Worse case scenario is having to re-do the entire wall with 2x4s throughout. The ceiling only needs paint - no holes. I don't want to risk damaging it while pulling down a wall. There are pipes, pex and some wiring going through the wall so I don't want to rip the whole thing out and re-work everything back in.

I was wondering about using plywood instead of drywall for the new wall. I was thinking it would be easier to attach the cabinets and more secure. I would use "good one side" plywood, maybe 1/2 inch? Or would 3/4" be better? If I used plywood, would I need to worry about hitting the studs all the time to secure the cabinets? I'd either paint or wallpaper the rest. Since the ceiling is only 7.5 feet, the sheets would stand on end and add to the wall strength. Two or three sheets would do the job.

The other wall is the center where the two halves of the DW meet. Is this likely to have 1x4 studs also? I am guessing it's a load-bearing wall since it extends into the LR.

I can't put a lot of money into this since it's from the 1970s and Fl. won't let you insure it for more than your purchase price.

[DCDiva]

Hi We ran into this in our 1973 MH, when replacing windows,plus all was gutted so the choice to replace all the 1x3 studs with 2x4 was an easy one. You are not planning a total gutt so I would replace the kitchen- bath wall with a new 2x4 wall,insulate it too,so nice not to hear bathroom activities from kitchen LR LOL--non load bearing and the outside wall if you plan on cabinets I would sister with 2x4,add new insulation,and if you want plywood--my dad did this to his remodel and we were grateful 25 years later to find this,cabinets were a snap to install lol. Please share step by step progress and finished project. We all learn form others...opps
Melissa in WV

[Greg S]

If you are concerned with the weight I recommend you sister 2X4s as suggested. Pay close attention to the attachment at the top plate. This is the point of the wall that will likely pull away under load. Adding 2X4s will add to the rigidity of the wall but a wall that is not adequately attached at the top plate will not be any less likely to fall.
Adding plywood, although it improves cabinet attachment, mechanically only adds additional weight to a wall that is already under constructed. Plywood adds no strength to the wall only further compromises your lack of wall support strength.

[Greg]

I would sister in 2x4 studs, attach top & bottom to the top & bottom plate. Then use sheetrock over the studs. Now would also be a good time to switch to standard Electrical boxes, switches & outlets.

Greg