In 2005, I did some major interior and exterior renovations to my 14 x 70 Rockford that included:
-Metal roof-over with 2" insulation under it.
-New carpet thru out.
-Euro Stone vinyl tile over existing sheet vinyl.
-New walk-in shower with dual screw-attached shower rods.
-New insulated, steel front and back doors.
-New refrig.
Now, in 2009, I'm "winterising" with these renovations:
-Fumigate under M.H. $60
-Remove and discard plastic skirting.
-Re-leveling with water level, $300
-Insulating pipes. $25
-Repairing belly where dogs tore it up. $100
-New fiber impregnated concrete CertainTeed skirting. $1,700
-1/4" thick "insulation board" over existing metal side panels,
followed by installation of dutch-cut vinyl siding and new shutters
$3,900
-New carport on cement pad $2,100
Well, I bought Mark's book, and am using it as a guide.
I decided not to attempt the water leveling myself. Just not set up to do it.
Someone told me the new skirting was called "hardy" board. I don't know if this is correct. I have looked at M.H. display models on dealer lots that have it (what I've ordered) and it seems much more substantial than the plastic stuff. The board I'm getting is about 1/4" thick and is heavy. It's being installed with (12) temperature actuated vents.
The siding is being done by the same company that did a great job on the roof-over in 2005.
I'm doing the belly repairs myself and am almost done. What a dirty job. But I have been able to inspect close up the plywood flooring and joists from underneath. I'm please that I have not found any rotten wood and no indication of water leaks anywhere.
Actually, the wood appears to be better quality than some site-built homes I've looked at recently.
The dogs did much more damage than I originally thought. They removed the belly material and insulation every place there was a water pipe. Fortunately, they did not tear the water pipes down.
I'll post some before and after photos. All work should be completed in Sept..
14 x 70 Renovations
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
The re-leveling was done this morning by a three-man crew. Took about 1 1/2 hours. With the old vinyl skirting removed, it had to make it easier for them.
The M.H. was out about 1/2" worst case. It's been 16 years since the last leveling.
The crew had the tools, the techniques and worked without hardly saying a word.
All doors, interior and exterior work like new, now.
They put in all new wedges. Though there is no sign of termites anywhere, some of the old wedges were eaten up by wood bores, and no doubt caused some of the out-of-level condition. Maybe levelers need to use metal wedges?
I plan on treating the new wedges with insecticide before the new Cententi (sp?) (fiber/cement skirting) is put on.
With proper level, the skirting can now be installed.
This Cententi (sp?) is suppose to be hard on drilling and cutting tools. The installer will put in the holes for the water faucets, etc..
The skirting is to be done later this week.
A neighbor of mine did the bobcat work for the carport this morning, also. He charged a fraction of what others wanted. I gave him a new CD with Southern blue grass on it as a bonus.
Anyone have some feedback on this Cententi (sp?) skirting material? I didn't see it in Mark's book.
The M.H. was out about 1/2" worst case. It's been 16 years since the last leveling.
The crew had the tools, the techniques and worked without hardly saying a word.
All doors, interior and exterior work like new, now.
They put in all new wedges. Though there is no sign of termites anywhere, some of the old wedges were eaten up by wood bores, and no doubt caused some of the out-of-level condition. Maybe levelers need to use metal wedges?
I plan on treating the new wedges with insecticide before the new Cententi (sp?) (fiber/cement skirting) is put on.
With proper level, the skirting can now be installed.
This Cententi (sp?) is suppose to be hard on drilling and cutting tools. The installer will put in the holes for the water faucets, etc..
The skirting is to be done later this week.
A neighbor of mine did the bobcat work for the carport this morning, also. He charged a fraction of what others wanted. I gave him a new CD with Southern blue grass on it as a bonus.
Anyone have some feedback on this Cententi (sp?) skirting material? I didn't see it in Mark's book.
Last edited by DavidW on Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Greg,
I have a quote of $1,700 for the CertainTeed skirting installed.
I like the stucco look and the fact that it is very hard and comes with a 50 year written warranty.
It is less expensive than other types of skirting.
Appears to be a good value.
The ground channel is 4 inches high on the outside. I like that feature.
I'll post my opinion on it after it's installed this week.
I have a quote of $1,700 for the CertainTeed skirting installed.
I like the stucco look and the fact that it is very hard and comes with a 50 year written warranty.
It is less expensive than other types of skirting.
Appears to be a good value.
The ground channel is 4 inches high on the outside. I like that feature.
I'll post my opinion on it after it's installed this week.
Greg,
My first plan was to build my own skirting system out of redwood fence planks. There is a M.H. near here with redwood skirting and redwood privacy fence. I've been watching it for years and it still looks good.
But the cost of just the material would have been around $1,500 and me providing the labor.
I priced out other types of plastic /vinyl skirting and had one company quote me $2,200, which I'm sure was a rip-off.
I then checked the price of brick and rock, both real and manufactured, and that was way up there, $5,000 plus.
Perhaps I needed to study how to deal with independent contractors and learn how to get the best quotes. Maybe this forum could use a sub-forum on dealing with vendors in this day and age of wage deflation and price inflation.
Sometimes the prices we hear quoted sound resonable, but in reality are now over-priced due to this fabulous green-shooted economy.
But so far, I've been pleased with the quality of work and products in renovating this M.H.
My first plan was to build my own skirting system out of redwood fence planks. There is a M.H. near here with redwood skirting and redwood privacy fence. I've been watching it for years and it still looks good.
But the cost of just the material would have been around $1,500 and me providing the labor.
I priced out other types of plastic /vinyl skirting and had one company quote me $2,200, which I'm sure was a rip-off.
I then checked the price of brick and rock, both real and manufactured, and that was way up there, $5,000 plus.
Perhaps I needed to study how to deal with independent contractors and learn how to get the best quotes. Maybe this forum could use a sub-forum on dealing with vendors in this day and age of wage deflation and price inflation.
Sometimes the prices we hear quoted sound resonable, but in reality are now over-priced due to this fabulous green-shooted economy.
But so far, I've been pleased with the quality of work and products in renovating this M.H.
-
flcruising
- Posts: 606
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:18 pm
- Location: Florida Panhandle
Certainteed is just another manufacturer of cementitious fiber board siding products.
I have James Hardie (hardiboard) skirting that I've installed on my house. I used the reverse board & batten (T1-11) siding panels. The cost of the panels is $23 at Lowe's. Haven't completed the whole house yet, but my design calls for only 2 sides of my house. The total cost for 2 sides (108 linear ft.) is just over $300. That doesn't included the wood framing materials, but once complete, it will be significatly less than $1700.
I have James Hardie (hardiboard) skirting that I've installed on my house. I used the reverse board & batten (T1-11) siding panels. The cost of the panels is $23 at Lowe's. Haven't completed the whole house yet, but my design calls for only 2 sides of my house. The total cost for 2 sides (108 linear ft.) is just over $300. That doesn't included the wood framing materials, but once complete, it will be significatly less than $1700.
[color=blue]Aaron[/color]
flcruising,
The bill of materials comes to a little over $1,000. The rest is labor.
They are installing it right now. I'll have enough material and hardware left over to do the yard barn skirting.
BTW, One of the installers told me he took a piece of CertainTeed and cut a hole in it for his wood stove pipe and placed it in a window. The material is apparently fireproof.
I don't plan on trying that one, but he said it's been in use a couple of winters with no deterioration.
The bill of materials comes to a little over $1,000. The rest is labor.
They are installing it right now. I'll have enough material and hardware left over to do the yard barn skirting.
BTW, One of the installers told me he took a piece of CertainTeed and cut a hole in it for his wood stove pipe and placed it in a window. The material is apparently fireproof.
I don't plan on trying that one, but he said it's been in use a couple of winters with no deterioration.
flcruising,
It's good that you are not spending money and doing it yourself.
I financed this renovation by not running the a/c and not giving the power company hundreds of dollars a month. Multiply that by a couple of years and ya find out ya got some money saved up. (see my thread on "Life without A/C in the South")
This skirting job will be done in one day. It's done, and I move on to something else.
There is almost always several acceptable ways to accomplish something. This is how I chose to do it.
It's good that you are not spending money and doing it yourself.
I financed this renovation by not running the a/c and not giving the power company hundreds of dollars a month. Multiply that by a couple of years and ya find out ya got some money saved up. (see my thread on "Life without A/C in the South")
This skirting job will be done in one day. It's done, and I move on to something else.
There is almost always several acceptable ways to accomplish something. This is how I chose to do it.
The skirting is installed and painted.
One problem that showed up right at the end of the job was the depth of the automatic vents. The two vents at each end of the M.H. have only a 2 - 2 1/2" deep space due to the ends of the frame.
The auto vents are 3 1/2" deep. The installers said they'd return with some manual vents that are 2" deep.
All vents are at the same elevation on all sides.
This is a minor glitch. Other than that, it's a good looking skirt that will look better once the siding is installed.
Overall, the M.H. has a more finished look to it than with the vinyl.
The 4' x 8' panels weight 75 lbs. each before cutting to size. Or 2.34 lbs. per sq. ft..
Acrylic paint was used on the skirting after it was installed. They used both a spray gun and a roller. All exposed edges were painted (around access doors and at the corners.
The panels float 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the ground channel. The ground channel has 4" sides inside and out. Hardwood gauge blocks were used to support the panel until the screws fastened it to the wood on the M.H..
The blocks were then removed and used on the next panel to be placed.
Time will tell if this is a good skirting material.
Looks good.
One problem that showed up right at the end of the job was the depth of the automatic vents. The two vents at each end of the M.H. have only a 2 - 2 1/2" deep space due to the ends of the frame.
The auto vents are 3 1/2" deep. The installers said they'd return with some manual vents that are 2" deep.
All vents are at the same elevation on all sides.
This is a minor glitch. Other than that, it's a good looking skirt that will look better once the siding is installed.
Overall, the M.H. has a more finished look to it than with the vinyl.
The 4' x 8' panels weight 75 lbs. each before cutting to size. Or 2.34 lbs. per sq. ft..
Acrylic paint was used on the skirting after it was installed. They used both a spray gun and a roller. All exposed edges were painted (around access doors and at the corners.
The panels float 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the ground channel. The ground channel has 4" sides inside and out. Hardwood gauge blocks were used to support the panel until the screws fastened it to the wood on the M.H..
The blocks were then removed and used on the next panel to be placed.
Time will tell if this is a good skirting material.
Looks good.
Last week the space for the new carport was leveled with a Bobcat.
The dirt would not pack and the Bobcat driver said it would give me trouble if it got wet.
He then recommended buying a truck load of "concrete wash" from one of the local concrete companies and put it down over the almost silky dirt. Never heard of "concrete wash" before. It's the sediment that accumulates in a sludge pond at a concrete factory. The sludge is from the concrete trucks when they are washed out at the factory.
The concrete companies give it away or charge very little because it does them a favor to get rid of it.
I paid $30.00 for 18 tons of it. It cost $150 to have it hauled and dropped in the carport area. For a 21 x 18 carport, it was way too much material. So the Bobcat driver spread it in the carport and then patched some places in the gravel driveway to use it all up.
That worked. Now there is a good base for the concrete. After the Bobcat packed it down, it felt pretty solid.
The Bobcat work was $120.
Next, I'll have the concrete poured next week.
Not all concrete companies are the same in quality and honesty. Some cheapy companies sell bad "mud". Asking around, yielded the names of a couple reputable companies, and a few to stay away from.
The dirt would not pack and the Bobcat driver said it would give me trouble if it got wet.
He then recommended buying a truck load of "concrete wash" from one of the local concrete companies and put it down over the almost silky dirt. Never heard of "concrete wash" before. It's the sediment that accumulates in a sludge pond at a concrete factory. The sludge is from the concrete trucks when they are washed out at the factory.
The concrete companies give it away or charge very little because it does them a favor to get rid of it.
I paid $30.00 for 18 tons of it. It cost $150 to have it hauled and dropped in the carport area. For a 21 x 18 carport, it was way too much material. So the Bobcat driver spread it in the carport and then patched some places in the gravel driveway to use it all up.
That worked. Now there is a good base for the concrete. After the Bobcat packed it down, it felt pretty solid.
The Bobcat work was $120.
Next, I'll have the concrete poured next week.
Not all concrete companies are the same in quality and honesty. Some cheapy companies sell bad "mud". Asking around, yielded the names of a couple reputable companies, and a few to stay away from.
Hey David,
Congrats on all the renos. Keep it coming, this is like a novel. You would think I'd get enough of all this working in the trades, but alas, it is what I love doing and reading about.
BTW, we'll be headed to Myrtle Beach first of Oct. and then to Oconee County for a day or so.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Congrats on all the renos. Keep it coming, this is like a novel. You would think I'd get enough of all this working in the trades, but alas, it is what I love doing and reading about.
BTW, we'll be headed to Myrtle Beach first of Oct. and then to Oconee County for a day or so.
Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Robert,
Thank you for the comments.
I'll post on progress as things get done.
I'm logging an account (with this thread), making simple observations in layman's terms and from the view of the end user, me.
The carport will be installed today, but that will turn out okay. I had an extra one foot added to the over all height. Carolina Carports will do a good job. This is the second carport for this M.H..
The siding is scheduled to start on Weds. of next week.
Once that is done, this phase of renovation will be completed.
The next phase will be landscaping and decks and driveway paving.
But that will be next year.
*********************************
Enjoy your trip to S.C.. It's always good to be back home. I take at least one Sunday cruise a year thru Oconee County just to see the scenery. Oconee is a naturally beautiful place.
With Hartwell, Sumter Nat'l Forest and Devils Fork Park, there is lots to do and see in Oconee.
Deo Vindice.
Thank you for the comments.
I'll post on progress as things get done.
I'm logging an account (with this thread), making simple observations in layman's terms and from the view of the end user, me.
The carport will be installed today, but that will turn out okay. I had an extra one foot added to the over all height. Carolina Carports will do a good job. This is the second carport for this M.H..
The siding is scheduled to start on Weds. of next week.
Once that is done, this phase of renovation will be completed.
The next phase will be landscaping and decks and driveway paving.
But that will be next year.
*********************************
Enjoy your trip to S.C.. It's always good to be back home. I take at least one Sunday cruise a year thru Oconee County just to see the scenery. Oconee is a naturally beautiful place.
With Hartwell, Sumter Nat'l Forest and Devils Fork Park, there is lots to do and see in Oconee.
Deo Vindice.
I meant to post this earlier, but forgot.
While repairing the belly material, I kept finding pieces of 2 x 4 about 3 - 4" long laying on the insulation, inside the belly material.
I then noticed there were, what felt like, more 2 x 4 blocks inside the sections that were not damaged and had never been cut open.
In other words, the M.H. was manufactured with these blocks laying loose on top of the insulation.
The only thing I can think of is they were put there as weights to keep the belly mat'l from flapping??? I don't know.
While repairing the belly material, I kept finding pieces of 2 x 4 about 3 - 4" long laying on the insulation, inside the belly material.
I then noticed there were, what felt like, more 2 x 4 blocks inside the sections that were not damaged and had never been cut open.
In other words, the M.H. was manufactured with these blocks laying loose on top of the insulation.
The only thing I can think of is they were put there as weights to keep the belly mat'l from flapping??? I don't know.