Windows - Why & What is Cheaper?

[TappanTrailer]

My 1977 has all of the windows set at about 72" high instead of the standard 78-80". WHY? It would appear that there is plenty of room above to have placed these higher in the wall.

That's probably one of the questions never to be really answered.

I will be replacing my windows, so I have a couple of options in front of me:

Of course my windows are a non-standard size, but even on the MH sites, I can't seem to find my size. Front windows appear to be 62" wide by 47.5" tall. This is measured from the aluminum lip to lip on the outside.

There is about a $100 price difference if I buy stock 60" x 48" windows, vs. custom ordering from Milgard (factory is 30 miles from here).

Or, I could buy stock windows, and enlarge the opening to place them at the right height which then requires messing with every header throughout the house. Or, I could buy stock, and fill in the two inch gap that is leftover on width, and figure out how to expand the rough opening for the 1/2" in height.

I'm thinking from a cost standpoint, I'm better off just custom ordering and not messing with anything other than putting windows that fit in, since to do anything else I would have to hire it out. It just means shortening all my curtains forever more

Opinions?

Thanks!
Tami

[Yanita]

Hi,

When upgrading windows you can never go wrong. The energy savings will typically pay for the windows within a few years.

A rule of thumb around here is to get windows bigger than the existing. It is much easier to enlarge the opening than to try and figure a creative way to cover and water proof the area from installing a window smaller than the original opening.

There are many threads on window replacements as well as photos in the personal photo albums. I know Greg one of the mods has pics and I believe JD has some, Jim from Canada, Audie... take a look in the photos.

As for the height of your windows...what are your ceiling heights?


Yanita

[Rod]

When measuring your windows you want to measure the "Rough Opening" In other words the hole in the wall. Stud to stud & Sill to header. Always give width first then height. Your windows should be 3/8"-1/2" smaller than the rough opening to allow for fit.

If you do get windows larger than your current size keep this in mind. If you go wider you will have to rebuild the header (and maybe beaf it up) If you go taller it is easier to lower the sill.

Unless you have good carpentry skills & extra time I would try to get the correct size. Shop around. Some companies don't charge that much extra for custom sizing/special order.

Good Luck!

Rod

[Greg]

Tami, I will give you a tip, with the age of your home, the headers are in all likelyhood either rotted or starting to, so I would plan on replacing them anyway. Now with that in mind, switch to stock size and save the money, or spend it on fancy trim.

I installed stock size Pellas in our home a few years ago and averaged about $200 each with wood inside trim & new headers. As Yanita siad I do have pictures done during the install that I could send if you want. Greg

[Rod]

Tami,

If Greg is correct an the headers are rotted or on their way then it really wouldn't be that much extra work to re frame for a different size because you have to do the work anyway.

If the headers are rotted than most likely so are your studs & sills.
Water infiltration will not single out just your headers.

I would not jump to conclusion until you can do some poking around. Maybe pull of the interior trim & window case molding so you can expose some of the framing and have a look. If you have definite signs of water damage that more further examination will be nec.

Hopefully its not the case and your framing is OK. But on the age of your home you never know

[TappanTrailer]

Thanks to all of you....

Yanita: the ceilings are 8', so there is room to go higher in the wall.

Rod: I agree, it would be easier to lower the sill, but my windows are low enough already. If they go any direction at all, it will be up higher since they look kind of dumb being as low in the wall as they are. Thanks for the measuring tips

Greg: Thanks so much for your blunt honesty! I *AM* truly afraid of what I will find once the walls are opened up. As for rot, I am at least a little hopeful that since I am in CA and a drier climate, that the rot bug has stayed away. If I were in my native WA state (rain, rain, more rain), I would agree 200% on rot everywhere...walls, sills, floors, etc!

I think I will start with a small window...like the bathroom, LOL.

Thanks again to all of you~
Tami

[Greg]

Tami, it SOUNDS much harder than it really is. I would stop by a home center and see if they have any display window set up in a mock wall.
If you are going to do one, plan on the whole day for the first one, so keep an eye on the weather, it's not fun having a hole in the wall with a rain storm headed your way. After you do the first one the others will go faster. It usually takes me less than 3 hours to get one in & sealed up weather tight. Greg

[oldfart]

M'am I'm gonn'a jump in here with my 2 cents for what it's worth. The best way to figger out what might be best is to grab up the cordless drill and chuck in a bit and remove all the screws from the outside edge of the window and see how bad things really are. Now once ya remove all the screws use a thin flat prybar of piece of wood to CAREFULLY pry the frame out of the existing opening. Have a tube of good silicone caulking handy 'cause yer gonn'a be putting this old window back in after the inspection!! So..how bad is it? Any wood rot? Top and bottom. While the window is out.. take some measurements of the ACTUAL opening. In carpenter parlance this is "the rough opening." Once ya know these facts it's time to decide what to do. I will say that "custom ordered" windows can actually wind up being cheaper than ripping out half-a-wall and making a standard window fit. Sometimes..not always. Figger in how many hours of labor it'll take to cut/stud/refit the opening, cut and fit new trim inside and out. The damage in my walls was so severe I had no choice but to opt for several new (Pella) standard sized windows and 2 custom ordered (63 widex43 high) Pella windows as well. It wasn't cheap..but the energy savings are priceless. The custom Pella windows cost me under $200ea. and replaced 2 double windows and a huge bow/bay window. Get the Low-E glass!!!!! My last electric bill...$25.85!!! Not a typo! Audie..the frugal Oldfart.....

[Mary and Griffin]

Hi Tami,
I also have a '77 and I know what you mean when you say your afraid of what you might discover. I also have low windows, the lowest being in the kitchen. At least there are cabinets about those windows, but they still look stupid. I need to replace all of the windows and should have done it before this winter. I had a guy come that told me that in order to replace them, the 'trailer' needed to be leveled. I can tell that the windows sag, but does it really need to be leveled in order to replace them? I realize that the new ones will also be crooked, but I'm more interested in good quality windows than looks.

[Greg]

If you install windows knowing that the home is unlevel every window that you install will also be unlevel, and should you relevel the home in the future they will look off.

Releveling or checking your home for level is not that hard to do, it will require some time spent "in the basement". Mark's book deals with releveling. Greg

[kamiller73]

Hey guys... HEY GREG I WOULD LOVE THOSE PICS OF WINDOWS AND HOW YOU DID THEM. If you would send them to me please I would totally appreciate it. I too am installing new windows (as some of you know) and am a little intemidated by the whole process. Wondering will regular stock windows like at lowes or home depot be too heavy to put in? I've taken the kitchen window off to measure the opening and it was very very light. Wondering if the wall will be able to hold a heavy window??

[Mary and Griffin]

Greg, I know that you're right about my leveling the house. It's just that I'm on my own (no men around right now), and I could never do this myself. I'm in PA near Scranton/Wilkes Barre. Do any of you know of any contractors in my area that would relevel it and install the windows.
Thanks......

[Greg]

I have no contacts down there, but perhaps some from the "family" has a name for you. Audi???
If the home is close to level you can most likely do them and not have a problem, but with out seeing youe home I can't say how close to level it is. Greg

[oldfart]

Hmmmm..? Wish I could advise better but my first thought would be to contact some of the mobile home dealers in the area and see if they have any contacts for such work. Somebody has to be installing and leveling every new home they sell and I wouldn't think they'd keep someone on the payroll all the time if they only sell a few homes a month. My next thought is to grab the phonebook and look under Mobile Homes or Home Remodeling&Repairs. We have lots of 1 and 2 man operations in my area that advertise Handyman Services. Some are puddy good..some are not so good. Ask for references and call them! Sorry I can't help more folks. Now, I keep getting these flyers in the mail..."New windows installed $187ea. complete!!" Don't know how reputable they are but I'll post the next flyer I get. Audie..the Oldfart...