Vintage Mobile Homes . . .

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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DiJiTs
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:00 pm

I have made an appointment to look at 1970 Beverly Villa manufactured home which is for sale in my area. Knowing nothing about this industry or what to look for, can someone give me the basics as to what to look for when inspecting this particular home or any manufactured home for that matter. The exterior looks like it has been well cared for . . . it's the inner workings which I'm more concerned with. I have been a home owner for the past 20+ years so I'm well versed in the trades necessary to maintain home. It's the particular things only found in manufactured homes which I need schooled in.

Thanks, DiJiT in S.C. CA
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Harry
Posts: 1249
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: Citrus county Florida

Hi

Here's a link that will help:

viewtopic.php?t=863

Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
kelguy
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:55 pm
Location: West Kelowna, BC,
Contact:

With older units such as this 1970 vintage, you'll find many things are no longer original.

Furnaces by now have been replaced, but if they have not, budget to replace it. (furnaces often have a date code stamped onto the data plate or painted onto the fan cover) These are usually guaranteed for 15 or 20 years, but have a real life expectancy of 25 to 30 years.

Water heaters are only guaranteed for 7 to 10 years. It is really unlikely that this vintage unit will have the original heater so look around to see a date. (it is usually part of the serial number). Any gas unit over 14 years should get the boot and electric units over 20 years should be replaced. Make sure there is no damage to the floor under the water heater (soft spots) , and that straps and supports are secure.

The original metal roof needs looking at closely. Make sure seams are sealed. Most important, check the edge of the metal roof roof where it meets the mobile's outside wall. Many leaks happen here, however, most can be re-sealed with caulking. Also check caulking at vents and chimneys on the roof. If the roof surface is in bad shape, consider one of the many options for roof replacement offered on this site.

Water problems in winter are preventable. Check the underbelly and make sure that there are no rips or tears in the fabric. Water lines freeze because animals or people have interferred with the insulation between the underbelly and the underside of the floor. If there are any voids in the insulation, fill them! And repair any tears in the belly board material to keep out the animals.

Shake the toilet in the bathroom to make sure it is screwed to the floor tight. If it rocks back and forth, there is likely some damage to the subfloor. Again, there are various options for repairs to a subfloor. Thump the walls and floor around the tub or shower. This is another area where major water concerns are found. This unit probably has a hard vinyl tub surround which is screwed to the wall with thousands of screws. If the screws are loose or there is a lot of rust. you can expect moisture may have seeped into the wall behind the tub.

If there is an addition added to the unit, make sure that the footings have not sunk or moved, and are in good condition. Check the vertical space between the wall of the unit and the wall of the addition to see if it gets larger at the top. This usually means that the addition has moved. A sloping floor inside the addition or doors that stick are other tell-tale signs of movement. The critical area is the transition on the roof between the mobile and the addition. If it doesn't already leak, it will. But again, this is an easy fix if you catch it in time.

The last area of concern, and one of the most important, is the electrical system. Likely this unit has a 60 or 70 amp service, which was acceptable in the "70's. These days, with all our electric gizmos, gadgets and Wii's, 100 amp has become the new standard. In Canada, most insurance companies balk at 60 amp service and often refuse to unsure the unit. Sometimes however, the park only has 60 amp service so the insurance issue goes away. For your own benefit, I recommend upgrading to 100 amp.

Secondly, in units this age, it is likely that a well meaning homeowner or handyman has shown his skills by adding a few circuits to the electrical panel. In 90% of the cases I have looked at, they have done it wrong somewhere. Tampering with elecrtrical is illegal and could void your insurance should the issure come up. Mostly though, there could be a fire hazard waiting for the right time to occur.

Common sense will tell you if the place has been butchered by a poor tradesman or if it has been abused or not updated.

Play it safe, get a home inspection! (end of promo)
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Brenda (OH)
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am

For an older home, check the size of the home. homes that old may only be 10 or 12 foot wide, and 50 or 60 ft long, compared to typical 14 by 70 or 16 x 80 ft sizes of newer homes. if it is large enough for your needs good, but if you may need to resell, the smaller dimensions may limit your potential buyers. you need to actually use a tape measure on the home. Porches, landscaping etc can fool the eye about the size. Personally, I have had no luck trying to "step it off" and measure it with my feet, especially on width lol. funny size feet I guess.....

are there additions onto the home? additions can be sources of leaks, weak spots, and if treated wood was not used, termites.....

1970, before the new hud standards, likely to have less insulation than homes after 1975 or was it 1976?

1970 home, before lead paint standards changed, by federal law you must reveal the home's age to any future tenants or buyers because of the possibility of lead paint. and get a signed document that you keep on file from the tenants or buyers about the possibility of lead paint. this is one of those biggies issues a person must not neglect to do or big potential for legal problems down the road, like the buyers can cancel the sale or sue you type level of importance!

hope these points help you make an informed decision.....

Brenda (OH)
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Demolition
Posts: 176
Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 3:07 am
Location: Arkansas
Contact:

In really old mobile homes they had aluminum wiring. I would recommend getting a licenced electrician to replace all the wiring, fixtures and breaker boxes.

In my old mobile home I just put the conduit on the paneling inside the rooms. Lowes has decorative conduit. This option allows us people in the 21st Century to use all the TVs and other gadgets we have have now.
Call Dinwiddie Demolition we'll tear that house right down.
Sweep up every splinter n haul it out of town
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Yanita
Moderator
Posts: 3369
Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hi,

I believe this has been answered respectively. All this info can be gotten in the "stickies" under Buying a Used Manufactured Home. You can print the article and take it with you while you do your own inspection...this will let you decide if you want to purchase and then HIRE a LICENSED MH certified inspector.

Thanks,

Yanita
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
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