Fascia Board

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
For mobile home parts, click here.

Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

opinion free
Posts: 70
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:24 pm

Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:23 am

Hi All,
Well the gutter issue has been answered. $650 for seamless gutters, is a bit too pricey. I'm going to "DIY" with the metal gutters from Home Depot. I'm not sure if my home ever had a fascia board, or if it needs one, but would like to install one. The gutter is 10 foot by 20 foot long in an "L" shape.
What should I use as the fascia board?

Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:12 pm

Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:50 pm

That's tough question, people will need to see what you have already, or a picture of the existing structure before any good suggestions are made.
I removed all of the factory fascia, some kind of cheap lumber a step up from balsa wood, it's a Karsten built 2006 and had many spots of rot . I replaced it with 1" OSB from a lumber yard not a chain store. I cut to fit removed and sealed on both sides and the edges, painted and reinstalled
with screws not nails. Sealed edges with 2 coats of penetrating epoxy, front and back face one coat and one coat of paint both sides.
It will last a lot longer then 8 years, if I get any spots of rot it will be easy to replace. I made a list of each piece with the dimensions so I can cut and treat a new one before removing the old one.

opinion free
Posts: 70
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:24 pm

Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:27 pm

Because that side of the home had the attached patio cover, it didn't have a gutter and by default, no fascia board. The attached patio cover had an internal gutter system built in, so whatever water that fell off the side of the house, was caught by the attached patio cover and used the gutter system to direct the water flow away from the house.

In the picture is a partial temporary gutter that the guys that removed the debris from the attached patio cover put up for me. The brown strip right below the roof shingles is a drip guard thing that the guys also installed. They said that drip guard needs to sit in the new gutters.
I don't want to just attach the new gutters to the wood siding, like they did. I was thinking of putting up a fascia board and attaching the new gutters to that.
I'm not sure what I should us as a fascia board. OSB and water, I thought that was a no no. Even if waterproofing is applied.
Thanks for your help.
1026141046.jpg (228.95 KiB) Viewed 11907 times

User avatar
Site Admin
Posts: 2690
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA

Sun Oct 26, 2014 1:40 pm

The problem you will run into is the back side of the gutter and any fascia board you would add should be tucked up underneath that drip edge. This is something that would be done before roofing. An option would be to install some type of "Z" bar that would tuck under the existing drip edge and then extend out 5/8" or what ever you need to get over the fascia board you add.

Problems that could arise is if there is a roof leak or leak at the Z bar edges, water will still get behind the drip edge and Z bar, causing roof edge, siding and fascia rot, but actually you would have those possible problems anyways.

If it were me, I would look at a good penetrating primer and rubber coating to apply behind the gutter and count on that to stop siding rot. Again, the back edge of the gutter should slide up into the drip edge. Gutters should attach at the wall studs and not to the siding alone.
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.

Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware

Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:51 pm

I agree with JD in that something needs to be done to keep water from going back under the roofing. If you are in a cold climate you will also have ice damming that could cause problems. If possible I would add an overhang of about 6" and add shingles to come out past the side of the house and put a 1x6 board on the end of small rafter tails that make up the overhang for the fascia. Look up online about soffit areas of a roofline for more info.


Posts: 342
Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Delaware

Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:07 am

I will ad that you could use something like this. It will give you more ventilation plus give you a good fascia and drip edge for your gutters. I installed something like these on part of my own house almost 20 years ago and no problems at all. I think mine were called "Como-Vent"


Or this. http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/ ... aFlow_Vent


Posts: 246
Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Anna, Tx

Wed Dec 17, 2014 8:02 pm

I'm a bit late to this party....but.....I recently had to replace all of my soffits and fascia boards. When the knuckleheads put the roof on at the factory they put the starter row of shingles in wrong and there were 5 or 6 places where the butt seams on the starter row lined up perfectly with the cuts-outs in the first row of shingles. Now add to it that they tucked the felt under the drip edge. This combo of screw-ups allowed rain water to get under the drip edge, behind the fascia and into the soffits - where it neatly drained down the siding.

Halfway through tearing it all out - a hail storm came along and I got a new roof!! Almost all of the first two feet of roof decking had to be replaced as it was water-logged and rotting. (FWIW - there were no signs of water leakage inside)

And guess what?? This roofing crew did almost exactly the same thing! I just happened to be watching the rain come down from a kitchen window and noticed the water was flowing off the roof from behind the drip edge. A not so pleasant conversation with the owner of the company ensued and got the crew back out here to fix all of it. Once again, several places where the starter row butt seams matched up with the cutouts on a three tab shingle.
Opportunity has a shelf life.