Lost Power in a Circuit

[oldSarge]

We've lost power to section of our manufactured home. Apparently rodents have established residency in the belly blanket under the floor and have taken to feasting on the wiring insulation causing a short that eventually destroyed the circuit connection.

We had a very capable and experienced electrician help us diagnose the problem and he let me do most of the work to keep cost down. Initially I have replaced all the connectors at the transition with junction boxes while removing the chewed wiring around it. Doing this has not restored power to the section of the unit though.

Here's the main question: Our electrician from the outset has recommended that we completely remove the belly insulation and vapor barrier. He explained that this will bare all the wiring and plumbing for inspection and repair. He says this is common practice around here since we are in a temperate climate in southwestern Georgia and the insulation offers little if any added energy efficiency especially if the underside is protected from the environment. We have a full real brick "skirting" wall with close-able vents around the entire house. He says the insulation is only installed because they have no idea what climate the home will come to rest in and that if it's a cold climate with less underside protection it will make a big difference. I also want to know if we do this do we need to at least place a plastic sheet as a vapor barrier on the dirt floor of the crawl space.

I've read through some of the posts that seem to have somewhat addressed this issue but it looks like maybe we can do the belly insulation/barrier removal and leave it be due to the fact that we don't have very cold winters and the likely hood of our pex plumbing underneath but inside the brick skirting freezing is slim especially if we just run faucets on the worst of nights.

I don't know if it matters to the subject but our place is a 2005 Brigadier Homes double wide unit 4br, 3ba, 2,350 sqft (approx). It seems to be a higher quality unit with full 8' level ceilings.

I've been on this earth for over six decades now and doing this will be a big but not impossible task. Before I proceed I would like to hear other opinions so please let me know what you think. Thanks.

[1987Commodore]

Being in GA, you might just get away with removing the belly wrap. You definitely should cover the ground with 6 mil plastic, whether you remove the wrap or not, and I would also insulate the brick skirting and the water lines. At least PEX is very forgiving of freeze ups.
Be aware that you will likely find large holes through the floor around water pipes, drains, etc. that will need to be plugged to resist varmint intrusion. Also, you may find that your HVAC duct work is less than perfectly sealed.

[Greg]

I would think that insulating the skirting & a ground vapor barrier should work for your area. make sure that the skirting is sealed with no holes for critters to get through.

Greg

[JD]

In a 2005 home, I would think almost all of your wiring is in the wall. Usually all you would see is where the wiring goes up into the main breaker box, at the crossover connection and maybe added circuits.

[Mark440]

I'm going to venture your electrical issue is in one of these cheap, clip on outlets/switches. I have the exact same issue now with the master bedroom outlets along an outside wall are all dead. Well, actually they aren't dead. They just have no neutral connection.
Sounds silly but you can use a radio to possibly find the problem. Plug the radio into a dead outlet - and turn the volume knob all the way up. Now go through the house banging on every outlet and switch you can find. There is a distinct possibility you will bang on one - and you will hear the radio jabber a bit - and that is the outlet/switch that has crappy connection. ( you can also do this with a light if you have a helper. The light will flicker quickly...where as the radio may not come fully on before the connection goes dead again)

As for the belly - I'm fixin to do the same. But definitely check all your plumping areas for the proverbial 8" hole for a 2" pipe.