window question

[MrPisky]

Yes, upgrading the windows was definitely on our list of things to do, but we are moving and are trying to fix the house up to get ready for market with limited funds.

Ok, scary nightmare window mystery NOT so scary after all...

The window pane is pressed into the aluminum frame from the front. I watched a few Youtube videos on general window pane installations and most of them seemed to show some type of pop-in retainer or glazing that held the window pane to the frame with removal from the outside. I just refused to believe that complete removal of the window frame was necessary just to replace a broken pane. So, I did some closer inspection and it turns out I was right...this isn't going to be such a big deal after all.

The window pane is held into place against the inner frame surface by either caulking or some type of adhesive. It is then secured around the perimeter by small sections of plastic "glazing" which can be removed fairly easily. The best place to start is nearest to where the glass is damaged. I began by duct-taping the entire glass to help keep the pane together as much as possible and for safety reasons. I then removed a small section of broken glass near the perimeter and could then easily remove one of the ten short sections of vinyl/plastic glazing seal. Here is a picture of where I removed the first section of glazing seal. You can see the edge of the glass pane.

IMAG2972.jpg

However, before you can remove the whole pane, there is a faux grid pattern assembly on the outer face of the window pane that must also be removed. It is not attached to the pane, only held in place by retainers at the frame edge. It's made up of thin lengths of rectangular extruded aluminum tubes which are held together at their intersections by plastic couplers. The other ends attach to the window frame with aluminum retainer clips mounted in between and underneath the ten short glazing sections. You can easily pull this whole "grid" away from the window once you remove one of the retainer clips as it will then "flex" quite a bit without coming totally apart. Best way to do that is to remove a section of glass pane near the frame so you can easily lift up the outer edge of one of the glazing strips and slide out the aluminum retainer. Here's a picture of the retainer I removed from the area pictured above. Take care not to mangle them when removing, as they are fairly fragile. I'm holding it up near another retainer that is still in place so you can see what they look like.

IMAG2968.jpg

Once the grid assembly is removed, then you can just pry out the rest of the little plastic glazing sections and the window pane will be free except for the glue or caulking sealing it to the inside of the frame. I haven't removed my window pane yet because I don't have a piece to go back in yet, but I anticipate needing some solvent to soften the glue so the glass can be removed without breaking it further. If I knew the exact dimensions of the glass, I would just break it out and cleanup the frame afterwards. At this point, I'm not sure if I can get an accurate measurement of the glass pane with it still mounted. If so, then removal by breakage will be the quickest.

Initially, I was concerned that the inside edge of the plastic glazing strips actually went BEHIND the window pane. They do not. They only go BESIDE the pane edge. I was afraid if I pryed the glazing strip too hard that the whole pane might break, but once I removed a small piece of glass, it was easy to see that the strip only bordered the edge of the glass and didn't extend underneath it. You don't want to damage these glazing strips so you can reuse them with the new glass and they also hold your "faux grid" in place. Here's a closeup picture of the end of one of the glazing strips. The "L" section on the very right side is what borders the glass pane. If you compare it with the first picture in this post, you can see how it aligns to the window pane and that it will NOT extend behind the pane.

IMAG2971.jpg

So basically, the mystery is solved... just gotta go get some glass and a cutter now and get to work!

[MrPisky]

Oh btw... I forgot to note that these windows are installed in a 1997 model Palm Harbor and they were made by Philips Industries, Inc. which is now out of business as of 2009. I tried locating information and maybe a breakdown online, but was not able to do so. Someone else may have better success than I did though.

Also, here's a pic of the "grid assembly" removed, but I think you can see it better on my earlier post:

IMAG2967.jpg

[Greg]

In The first picture looks like it may be clear silicone holding the glass. Try a razor knife along the edge and see if you can cut through it.

Glad you are making headway.

Greg

[Steve S.]

That is essentially the same type of pane retention I had in my window, except I have no faux grid and your "glazing" strips are a lot more hefty and stronger than mine(1985 Champion). I think that I finally ended up breaking the glass out of mine in pieces...that sealant is really tough stuff to try and cut through even with a very sharp razor knife. As you say, the dimensions of the glass are very difficult to estimate once the glass is broken...I remember having several panes cut before I had the right size to fit. I broke the smallest window I could(lower moveable kitchen), but it was large enough for me to squeeze through it once I raised it. Great in-depth detail on your progress...nice work and good luck!

[MrPisky]

Hey, thanks guys! I finally got a piece of 30" X 36" glass at Lowes yesterday and completed the install by nightfall. I was not able to remove the old glass in one piece to measure it, so I had to bust it out and then measure against the frame itself by noting how far the glass pane overlapped it before removal. I had never cut any glass before, but I used the large broken pieces I removed to practice on. Pretty easy to do, but you only get one shot. I got the glass cut and it was almost identical to the original. Cleaned up the frame and used nail polish remover to loosen the residual goo. Used clear silicone to caulk the frame and the glass went right in. Snapping in the plastic glazing strips and getting the grid retainers back in place was the most tedious part, but nothing major.

Thanks for all your input!