It seems to me that the easiest solution would be to raise the deck roof enough that you can seal it the same way your other one was. Maybe you could add a vertical piece to the back edge of the deck roof with proper flashing to get the needed height, or extend the current posts to raise the whole t...

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/article6.html
There's this one, but I think I remember another one where someone posted their own.

They are separate windows. You can remove the inner one with no problem. Mine had no gasket holding it in, so I put a bead of caulk on when I reinstalled it. If you don't want to remove the whole window frame, the lower glass pane is removed by pulling inward at the bottom and tilting it sideways to...

Yes, your proposed method can be done.

A good point. Seal the duct seams while you have access.

I'd wonder about critters chewing through the flex duct. At least the current metal duct is resistant to that. If you have only the vents in each gable end, that is not enough. I hope there are some vents through the roof also to provide proper circulation in the "attic." If it were me, I'...

Electrical, iirc. It's wrapped in white plastic.
Go to their web site and search "DUCT SEAL."

Just a thought - maybe if you used cement backer board, and did not secure it tightly to the wall studs, it might last. I'm not saying real loose, just so it is able to slide a little if it has to.

Look at duct seal. It is a grey, putty like product, used to seal around electrical conduits, etc. It comes in a brick. Rope caulk may work too.

Unbelievable. Someone died because no one could be bothered to make a phone call.

You may be lucky and find that the lumps in the floor are actually the disintegrated padding under the carpet. That is what I found when I did my living room.

I ran the door casing from the baseboard to the ceiling, and left the original trim over the doors. If you have a table saw, you could rip some boards to the right width over the doors, and use trim blocks at the corners of the doors to make the transition between the casing, crown, and door header....

Wow, no wonder you have issues! Use brass connectors, with stainless steel crimp or cinch rings, with the proper crimp tool for whichever type ring you use. I don't see how all those plastic connectors could be kept from leaking! Then, if you have any stress on that hard plastic fitting, as you will...

That is where mine is.

Here's a link to a manual. I didn't read the whole thing, but I did catch that the pressure switch can be affected by a plugged condensate drain.
http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/ ... /m3rl.html