Rapid Wall Skirting

[Tim M]

I need to replace my old vynl skirting and am looking at the Rapid wall 2" insulated panels. Has anyone had any experince with this? And do you reccommend it? I live in Iowa...so winters can be both windy and cold. It's rather expensive, so do think I would notice the differance with Rapid Wall vs regular vynl?

[Greg]

Personally I don't think I would use it. The price looks to be a little high for me plus I think a weedeater would make a snack of it. I used steel with 1 1/2" foam behind it. See "a better skirting idea" in the articles section of the site. Greg

[Rod]

Tim,

Downside to Rapid Wall is initial cost. As you and Greg mentioned its pricey.....shop it around though prices will vary. The only other drawback is its only available in 3 colors.

However it will hold up to a weedwacker much better then traditional vinyl as it is much thicker and has better back bone with the foam behind it as it is glued directly to the panel. Also the bottom track sits a little higher up the panel then traditional skirting so you really shouldn't have any contact with the weedwacker to the panel.

Rapid wall is advertised as R8, according to the sales rep R8 is just the foam board, when the vinyl is glued over the panel its increased to 9.1 Not sure how valid that is but its what they claim.

Its simple to install as it installs much like regular skirting. But the product is much stronger and will last longer.

It will give you a nice tight insulated "crawl space" to your home. In the winter time when we go under homes that we have installed this on there is a noticeble difference in temperature outside vs under the home.

If you go this route make sure you get some automatic foundation vents.

As Greg also mentioned you could try the steel/insulation method. It will be stronger and you will have better color selection. Downside longer to install and getting the foam cut just right to avoid gaps and spaces will be trickey.

Either way it will be a better choice over traditional skirting.

Good Luck

Rod

[Tim M]

Thanks for the replies. I have found the best price for Rapid Wall through General Supply, a mobile home parts store. For my 16x 80 with deck, was quoted $ 1,736 plus $ 450 shipping. That price includes 2 access doors and 10 auto vents. I'm having trouble swallowing the cost of shipping. I have priced 'stone' skirting thru some dealers and they want $ 4600 !

My highest point is 53" . Would you reccomend attaching the rapid wall to a frame behind the panel?

[Greg]

At 53" height you will need to do some Engineering. You should not connect the frame to the ground and the bottom of the home since that will eliminate the space needed to allow for ground heave in the winter. Perhaps a few 4x4s set into the ground would give you enough support to hold the skirting and still allow for movement. Greg

[JD]

Tim M said.... "I have priced 'stone' skirting thru some dealers and they want $ 4600 ! "

I don't doubt that for a minute. I recently finished a faux random rock repair and the low priced brick/rock/stone panels cost me more for materials than I sell regular vinyl skirting for installed. But that is not the end of the cost. The faux stone panels require a sheathing backing with framing 24" o.c., so that adds to the cost as well. Depending on the height of the skirting, you could also end up with a lot of waste due to the need of lining up of the notches.

The product line I used is called Nailon, from fauxpanels.com. They have like 12 different product lines. The Nailon was one of the cheapest panels at $20 each. The panel coverage is 40" x 17 3/4" (picture below). The really good stuff product lines are over $80 a panel! I have posted before and after pictures of the job in the Decorating, Landscaping and Gardening forum if you would like to see. (give me a few minutes. posting after this post)

JD

[joedirt63]

question for greg, on the steel panels for your skirting what did you do about the fost line and the ground freezing picking up theskirt? or are the panels heavy enough not to be affected by that issue? was thinking on doing that myself here. got a couple of above ground pool sheet metal.

[Greg]

Joe, I set them up about the same way Mark did in the article he wrote. The only difference was that I cheated and skipped the pea gravel.

I did a "test" (lack of $$$) and did one side in steel last year to see how it survive the frost and 100+" of snow that we get here. It came through just fine, I figure that if I got almost 20 years from the vinyl, than I should not have to worry about having to ever replace the steel, plus it laughs at weed eaters!!!

If you are thinking of going this route make sure that your supplier keep them in stock. I started buying from 84 lumber, then they stopped stocking them. Lowes & Home depot"s colors are slightly different, from one side to the other you can't see it, but next to each other it is obvious. Greg

[Tim M]

JD...does that attach to a backer board? Looks like it's hung like siding.

[JD]

The faux stone panels like these require a 7/16" sheathing and a moisture barrier behind it, per the manufacturer's instructions. There is some play when placing the panels to allow you to adjust the level. The panels also have one screw that goes in the middle of the right side. These things would make horizontal slats unfeasible and also more expensive that $8 per sheet 7/16" osb sheathing. These panels used to made of fiberglass. The new panels are made of a polymer. So the new panels might also warp if not fully backed by sheathing (my assumption).

JD

[Tim M]

Another quick question...when cuting the length of the panels, how far up inside the top trim should the panel come? I know it needs enough room to move. So, 1"... 2" ? I live in Iowa, so we do get frost heave.

[Greg]

I'd go about half way into the top rail. Greg

[JD]

You only need 1/4" clearance above and on the outside edges of these faux panels. While they expand and contract like vinyl siding, each panel expands and contracts independent of each other. The top course on the panels I installed had to be face nailed, where you drill a hole slightly larger than the screw. The supplier sells sanded grout that perfectly matches the grout on the panels. I used this to cover the screws.

I slid the panels up into the factory Z-bar that was there before. You could use vinyl siding top trim if you like. The supplier sells a brick ledge type of top trim that is very nice, but it is very expensive too.

JD