Proper Gas Furnace Exhaust Venting & Air intake

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I was inspecting the furnace/blower in a my dad's '79 Skyline in Las Vegas, an International, and found that the exhaust ducting doesn't look like it's properly finished. He has a split A/C system with the condenser outside and evaporator below the furnace burner. It feels like outside air is coming in through the vent at the top and it is being sucked into the blower via holes in the top front of the furnace/blower cabinet and that it should have another duct pipe around it. The top cabinet is empty and about an inch strip is open to the top of the furnace/blower cabinet when a thin piece of wall paneling is in place. My dad tapes a couple of 14 x 20 x 1 air filters inside the grill door and I tested and found that a lot of air is being sucked in on the right side of the cabinet door (it's not level, as much as 3/8" opening to the cabinet) as well as on top of the furnace/blower cabinet -- a few inches from the top, front edge there are a couple of holes -- this is where it seems to be sucking in the hot air. The space above the cabinet is very warm and I can feel the hot air coming from the outside. It looks like there should be another pipe around the exhaust pipe (which currently can be pulled up and moved out of the way to install this other, outer duct more easily). I think it fits an 8" duct. I notice that the inner duct doesn't currently have a seal around the duct it goes into.

My questions are:

1. Should I seal up the inner duct where it meets the upper duct - with what? heat resistant metal tape? I bought this metal plumbing repair tape at Lowe's and am uncertain what it's heat temp specs are or if it is for HVAC -- it lists none, Shurgard is the brand. Should I get another one that is rated instead, any recommendations? The other tape metal they had said for fiberglass.

2. Should I add the outer duct (8 inch) around the exhaust pipe, remove the old duct tape from the upper duct, and use metal tape to seal it? If so, do I need to screw in the bottom of the outer duct to the furnace?

3. Can I put any additional insulation around the ceiling (it's hot)? (The duct tape holding up a secondary piece of drywall with a flat sheet metal piece around the duct screwed in -- is falling down.) I assume I'll take off the old duct tape, stuff insulation in there if there isn't any, and use an adhesive to bind the drywall to the existing drywall as the screws have come out of the top drywall. Then seal up with the metal tape. I also have 1.5" styrofoam board if this can be useful.

4. Can I insulate around the outer duct as this will be hot from the outside air? If so, material?

5. What is the best way to manage the airflow and filtration into the unit? Should I weatherstrip around the opening on the side of the cabinet? Should I do something so that the air drawn in from the top of the furnace comes more directly from the hallway air instead of above the cabinet air? Are the duct-taped filters in the grill a good choice?

6. I found condensation on the line into the evaporator as well as a couple of large holes where cold air was blowing out around the pipes. I put a rubber pipe cover around it and stuffed the end into the sheet metal to block the airflow out. Is that okay?

Thanks for you help. I'm a newby at this but excited to learn how to do these things correctly, lowering the energy bills for my dad & helping the environment.

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Mark
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Robert will respond with the particulars, but SHUT OFF the furnace and DO NOT use it. Extremely dangerous set-up you have right now.

Mark
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Robert
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Hi,


From the pics, I agree that it appears to be a very shoddy and dangerous set up.


This is not something for DIY and needs the attention of an HVAC Tech for everyones safety.


Please call one out to inspect, diagnose and advise on what is needed.



Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Last edited by Robert on Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Trytrytry

Hi Guys,

This setup has been running for 18 years as-is. My dad's not inclined to get an HVAC tech out here. Anything I can do to make things better?

Thanks,
Mario
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Robert
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Location: Tennessee

Hi Mario,

That's why I said "it appears". From the pics it looks dangerous, but it has worked for 18 years. It still does not meet codes from how it looks.


Also, I have red tagged dangerous units before that had been used for years.


All we can go by is the pics and I have to stand by my recommendation for a Tech.



From what I see, I cannot gaurantee myself that all is well with that setup.


That puts your Dad at risk and I can't do that.


He can choose to not call a Tech and trust the setup and take the risk, I can't and won't.


I'm not comfortable with the risk involved going by the pics alone without being there, sorry.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
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