Tub Plumbing Question: Simple (I think but don't guarantee)

[nwwoman]

Hello All --

Need to connect a 1 1/2inch black plastic p-trap to a 1 1/2 inch copper overflow pipe. MUST use a flexible plumbing pipe.

1. Has anybody used pex pipe to do something like this? Would you? Any alternatives to pex?

2. To connect, best to use crimp or adapters?

BTW, I called every plumbing shop in our town today. NONE of them will work on mobile homes. There are four shops here.

[steve]

Try a flexible no hub connector 1 1/4 to 1 1/2

[nwwoman]

Thanks!

BTW, are you a plumber? I am hoping..

[Brenda (OH)]

If you can find the closest mobile home part store, you may want to call to see if they know any folks that work on Mobile homes. Handymen will often do the plumbing, but not the electrical on mobile homes. (reasoning I have been told is, plumbing mistakes seldom kill anyone

if that doesn't work, ask in the DYI plumbing department if they know anyone that might do mobile home plumbing. My favorite mobile home repair fellow I met while he was working his day job at a DYI store.

good news is, you almost have the job done yourself!

Brenda

[nwwoman]

Hi Brenda -- Unfortunately, the closest MHPS is 90 miles away. (And after that one, the next closest is 265 miles away!) I did call. No help. A law was passed in this state requiring all MH repair folks to have a special contractor's license specifically for MH. In my town, no one will do it. And great minds think alike...I did go to ACE, which is the only hardware store in this town. The guy I talked to (actually talked to two) said that the plumbers in town won't work on them and he knew of nobody. He suggested going through my friend tree. This stinks. My painter-friend helper has stopped working until I can find a solution. No mad. Just doesn't know what to do.

Right now, we cannot connect the tub drain to the p-trap. The top of the trap is one inch off -- horizontally. So we need the p-trap to move closer to the wall by one inch to make the connection.

Right now, we're on third day of no progress -- on stuck.

If you can find the closest mobile home part store, you may want to call to see if they know any folks that work on Mobile homes. Handymen will often do the plumbing, but not the electrical on mobile homes. (reasoning I have been told is, plumbing mistakes seldom kill anyone

if that doesn't work, ask in the DYI plumbing department if they know anyone that might do mobile home plumbing. My favorite mobile home repair fellow I met while he was working his day job at a DYI store.

good news is, you almost have the job done yourself!

Brenda

[JD]

Hi nwwoman,

Steve is right about what you will need. Your overflow and drain should look like the image below. If the overflow and drain pipes are copper, you probably would have been better off with PVC.



The part you will want will look like this. Be sure to tell the parts person what you are hooking up. You will notice that the rubber in the "no hub connector" is thicker for the copper side than on the ABS side.



JD

[JD]

Moving the overflow pipe back 1" will be difficult. It can be done, but it would look like a botch job. Also, if anyone ever needed to "snake" your tub drain, they will want to go in through the overflow pipe. I would cut the main drain and relocate the end of the P trap.

I hope something works out for you soon. I imagine it must be pretty frustrating having the job half finished like that.

JD

[RWR]

You might think about using automotive radiator hose.... worked on my summer home, eliminated the traps on the tub,sinks so they wouldn't freeze when I closed it up for winter. Check the truck parts supply store for the larger sizes.

[nwwoman]

Hey Everybody.....

You have no idea how GOOD it feels right now to see all of you chiming in to help.

Right now, we have no shower, no tub, no washer, no dryer, a partially connected toilet (for easy remove) and an 18-year-old acting like a cat with his tail under a rocking chair.

So I broke down and bought a bottle of red wine. AGGGGGGG.

I think I am miscommunicating, so I will try again.

Problem: connecting tub drain to drain system.

Option One -- Drain directly into p-trap from drain in bottom of tub; block overflow hole; p-trap connects to air vent.

OBSTACLE: While the replacement tub is 54 x 30 and old tub was 54 x 27, we cannot connect the tub drain to the p-trap because the drain in the tub sits one inch closer to the wall. In other words, the p-trap is one inch past the drain on the bottom of the tub.

Solution? The only horizontal area that could be cut is the sain-tee. It is located smack dab under the bottom plate between the wall studs. It is glued to the p-trap. And there is only about 2 inches of horizontal on that sain-tee.

Creative Idea? Swing the p-trap to left or right and try to use some thing in the way of flexible pipe to connect to the bottom of the tub's drain.

But there's not much room there.

Option Two Use overflow drain waste system. Connect to p-trap which connects to sain-tee and air vent.

Obstacle? Current p-trap is the original and right now it's sitting in position, one inch past the drain on the bottom of the tub, which is loosely positioned over it.

To connect the overflow pipe to a p-trap, we would have to cut the current trap connection where it is glued to the sain-tee. And that sain-tee ain't moving. It's right there under the bottom plate between the studs.

While floor is now open all the way to wall and recess hole is open so all plumbing can be seen, trying to do a clean cut of the sain tee looks impossible. And, trying to figure out exactly where to cut is a dilemma. There is no forgiveness in the job. One error and the air vent will become the next problem.



Whatcha think? Shall we just bathe outside from now on? lol

[kharndt]

NWwoman, I can't help but wanted to say "hi" from Spokane.

And also wanted to ask a question. You said that "A law was passed in this state requiring all MH repair folks to have a special contractor's license specifically for MH." I assume you're talking about Washington, yes? Is that just plumbers, or do you know? I've had electrical (licensed) work done with no mention of the issue (maybe they had the license and didn't feel the need to mention it).

I am reading these forums because I, too, want to replace my styrofoam bathtub. I was pretty confident about doing it myself (with intermediate DIY skills) until I ran across your postings!


Thanks!

Karen

[steve]

Maybe you could:
Cut the Ptrap at bottom and use "no hub " connector to move 1" closer to tub drain

Cut pipe at "T" and use "no hub" connector
(no hub 's come in various sizes and even a full "ptrap" so you can put one end over hub and other on pipe just by correctly sizing each end)

You will definetley have to cut the drain pipe

As far as the overflo...Use one or block off the hole in tub with a regular overflo cover and back it up behind the tub with metal or wood

Hope this helps

[nwwoman]

Hmmm, thinking on this, Steve. THANK YOU for the help.

I'm not understanding your instructions.

Cut the Ptrap at bottom and use "no hub " connector to move 1" closer to tub drain

You mean at the bottom of the U in the P-trap? Or where the trap connects to the sain-tee?

[nwwoman]

Karen -- Probably best to start a new topic with your question. I will also email you privately.

[oldfart]

M'am one of the best tips I can offer has already been posted. As much as I dislike it there are times when we need to think outside the box. Not long ago I had a plumbing job to do at my folks home. Nothing was plumb, square or "per-code." There simply was no way to make the drains line up or work. I ended up going to the local (Gates Hardware in Curwensville, Pa.) and buying several sections of common automotive flexible radiator hose to make the connections. That was 5 years ago. So far no problems, no leaks. And this wasn't a mobile home..it's a stick-built home at least 80yrs. old. One of the first problems you're gonn'a run into is tubs for sale in Home Depot/Lowes etc. are designed to have the traps drop below the floor level. Mobile home tubs/showers don't do that. The trap is located above floor level to keep it from freezing on account of they ain't no "under-floor." A normal drain-trap drops down below the belly of the floor on a mobile home. We don't have that option in most cases...it'll freeze! Now there is a way around this problem. A standard/normal tub can be installed as long as the drain goes to a "grey-water line." This means that the tub is hooked up to a drain-line that does not go into the sewer system and doesn't require a "trap" to keep odors out of the home. No trap..no sewage odor..no problem. And no need to elevate the tub to allow for all this stuff. One final thought. I'm not sure what "The Codes" are where you're at...(and I'll post more on that when time permits) but hereabouts if the homeowner wants to upgrade/repair or remodel he/she can do so as they wish un-impeded by those unwarranted and needless rules that only serve to fatten the wallets of the polititions and tradesmen and their unions. As long as we don't pay outside help to do any work we are not required to obtain a "building permit"...hire in expensive labor to do menial tasks or pad the wallets of such leeches. Yes..there is a time for professionals. Replacing a .49 cent light-switch is not one. JMHO of course...Audie...the Oldfart...

[Yanita]

Hi,

Although I agree with Audies post, as a site admin/mod I must say that as a matter of policy we always have to advise folks of the legal way that repairs should be done. This has to include references to building permits and the proper repairs...

Now should you decide to go the route of grey water lines be sure that the water is not draining directly under your home.

Yanita