In this picture,i am needing to remove the brown wood colored crown molding all around the room so i can paint the wall and i also want to paint this crown molding. How can i remove the molding without breaking it and also not disturbing the thin caulking that is between this molding and the ceiling (you can also see the white caulking in the picture)?
removing without hurting?
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
I would try cutting the caulk with a sharp utility knife. Try using a wide putty knife to gently pry the molding or use a small nail or punch to push the nails through the molding.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Why remove the molding if you're gonna paint both? I'd just paint them in place. Use a steady hand or tape off if needed.
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well, i thought about leaving it up but i dont have THAT steady of a hand, and when using tape, i always seem to have issues with paint creep, paint getting under the tape in spots..
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Test your steady hand with a dry paintbrush first. It's not too hard to follow the lines freehand if you concentrate. Small imperfections will not be seen. If you're not happy with that I'd use the blue painters tape and press the edges well. That should help a ton. But, if that still isn't good enough, then I'd follow Greg's advice to remove I guess.
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I have had good luck with "painters edge" I have several from 36" down to 6" and if I need one smaller I use a putty knife as an edge guide. You can also use a wide 24" drywall trowel.
I have also used the edge guide painter from "Sure" practice first but works very good. I used one to cut the edges around very large exterior windows with an extension pole didn't use a ladder at all .
The above all worked well, no tapping, ladders , or masking looks very professional.
Jim
I have also used the edge guide painter from "Sure" practice first but works very good. I used one to cut the edges around very large exterior windows with an extension pole didn't use a ladder at all .
The above all worked well, no tapping, ladders , or masking looks very professional.
Jim
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when using the painters edge, it doesnt drag paint with it when you move it to the next area? anyone ever use one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-EASY-PAINTE ... 3f309a2579
http://www.ebay.com/itm/The-EASY-PAINTE ... 3f309a2579
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also, not sure what a 'painters edge' is, is this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-DEVIL-4047T ... 53eaa141c7
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RED-DEVIL-4047T ... 53eaa141c7
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The RED DEVIL ,is the type I use a lot works great> The( EASY PAINTE) I have not tried that one,
I also use the EDGE PAINTER by Sureline works great also.
The trick with either one is keep them clean. The painters edge 24" stainless must be wiped clean after you remove it each time DO NOT SLIDE IT if the line is important.
http://www.shurline.com/PRODUCTS/CONVEN ... fault.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsZCLBEI5VU
I also use the EDGE PAINTER by Sureline works great also.
The trick with either one is keep them clean. The painters edge 24" stainless must be wiped clean after you remove it each time DO NOT SLIDE IT if the line is important.
http://www.shurline.com/PRODUCTS/CONVEN ... fault.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsZCLBEI5VU
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Just got done doing that on my living room trim. I can paint a dead straight line for just so long and then it's cheatin' time.The trick with either one is keep them clean. The painters edge 24" stainless must be wiped clean after you remove it each time DO NOT SLIDE IT if the line is important.
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I will leave it up and paint. Now, i am debating on leaving it or replacing it with something nicer as this factory stuff looks pretty cheap.. not sure what to do..
If you are changing colors, leave it up or plan on a slightly wider molding. The odds of making the edges line up to hide the paint lines are stacked way against you.
Greg
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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