Howdy, and question #1

[Bill]

Great site!

I've bought an '89 Guerdon, 14 x 66. My first home. I have -some- "stick-built" construction experience, but am clueless about the structure of a MH. Our new home is far away, but we'll be heading up to make some repairs in a week or so, and I'd like to be a little prepared. All advice will be appreciated! ...with heart-felt thanks... We're a little strapped for cash at this time...

I saw water damage on the interior side of an exterior wall on our inspection trip. The wall is next to a wood-stove fireplace, and I think the damage is probably from a leak around the (8" diam') "chimney" pipe. I'll be removing the wavy wallboard and replacing it. (And re-sealing the pipe up on the roof).

My question is:

1. Can anybody give me a clue as to what sort of framing I'll be dealing with? I assume it's not 2x4 studs.

I don't want to get into removing the exterior siding, and hope to be able to leave the existing framing in place and and add new studs where necessary.

I expect I'll not be happy with the existing framing and will wind up tearing out both wall-claddings behind the woodstove, (it's in a corner). The walls are maybe 15' in one direction and 8-10 in the other, so it's not a -huge- job. One exterior, one interior wall. I think I'd like to add 2x4 studs to the existing -whatever-it-may-be- on both, and then use regular drywall.

We plan on putting stone "tiles" behind the woodstove. Will the floor support the added weight? What is the floor support? Wood joists? 2x10's? (Please!) Will I have wood sill plates and a wood top cap to nail the new studs to? (Please!) Is the existing wallboard in any way structural? (Please, Dear God, NO!)

Are any of the interior walls load-bearing, or is the roof supported entirely by the exterior walls? And, how is the roof framed? Are there 2x's behind those narrow, what look-to-be- moulded plastic rafters? Are they just decorative channels, capping 2x's? What keeps the exterior walls from splaying outward from the lateral force of the pitched roof?

-Sorry my question turned out to be so many questions, I hope they are relevant to others!

-Thanks,
Bill

[Yanita]

Hi Bill,

Welcome to the site, always a great day when we can include new folks. I must say I chuckled as I was reading your post...well written with a sense of humor. Hold onto that humor, once repairs begin you may well need it.

OK, I can not answer all your questions but will assist in what I can.
For future reference please try to post one question or related questions to a thread. When we get this many in a thread some answers may get overlooked.

Glad you have some carpentry experience, LOL, forget all you know about stick built construction...you are now entering the world of Manufactured/Mobile construction. Although similar, still different.

Many here can relate to being strapped for cash, but in some repairs it is best to get the best materials you can and do a proper repair, if not, you know the end results.

In our books/parts link above you will find a Manual for manufactured/mobile home repair and upgrade. Nominal fee and well worth the money. Also I will leave you with a link that has exploded diagram of basic mobile home construction.

Judging by the year of your home you should have the 2x4 studs for the exterior walls, alot of interior walls can be as little as 1x3.

You can use regular drywall, but in some homes this is prone to cracking if you live in an area with extreme winters. The shifting of the home during the changing of the seasons. Typical wallboard is installed with gaps between them and then covered with batten strips to hide that gap.

Tiles can be used, but again this depends on several factors. What type of foundation does your home sit on. How much of an area do you plan on covering. With the shifting of the home it can cause cracking of the tiles themselves or the grout.

Wood stoves are a tricky creature in a MH. Please be sure that this stove is rated/approved for MH use and installed correctly and inspected. Mobile home insurance carriers can be pretty strict on this. Especially if this home is going to be your permanent residence, and the wood heat your primary heat source...that can raise issues on its own.....

Depending on the amount of weight you are adding you might/should add extra blocking under your home. Check to see if this home has out riggers.

Please know that underpinning, including brick underpinning has no structural value, neither does the interior wall coverings.

Load bearing walls...if your home has flat ceilings through out then the interior walls are not load bearing, If you have a flat ceiling and the next room is a cathedral ceiling in some cases that is/can be a load bearing wall.

The roof is typically supported by all exterior walls, unless you have a load bearing interior wall.

Can not comment on the way your roof is framed, do you have a pitched roof, domed, shingled, rolled metal? Your framing could be as small as 2x2', but nothing more than 2x4 with gussets.

Moulded plastic rafters...I have to assume you are referring to the strips that are between your interior ceiling panels. If so they are decorative mostly, they cover the gaps between the panels.

What is your floor support...you wont be smiling anymore. As you know, your home has 2 I beams running underneath it. The floor joist are on the I beams. Your joist will probably not be any larger than 2x6, hence the weight warnings.

Yes, you will have a wood sill plate, BUT, LOL, it is quite possible that it is sitting on particle board or OSB sub floor.

OK, tried to answer most of your questions, latter in the day, the big boys will show up, and add to this ...

Again, welcome to MHR.com!

Here's the link...

http://www.mygreathome.com/fix-it_guide/diagram.htm

Yanita

[Bill]

Thank you Yanita! I'll try and isolate my questions for clarity. Looks like I struck info gold here! -I'll order the manual as soon as we're fully transitioned into our new place. I'm sure I'll be glad I did!

My ceiling is pitched, with cathedral ceilings. It's not much of a pitch, but enough to get me wondering about lateral thrust on the ext' walls. The pitch looks to be about 1.5-2' in 7'.

I'll be happy if there are 2x4's in the ext' walls! But sad that they aren't 2x 6's... I can deal with the interior walls, and will add piers, just in case.

-Dont worry about my sense of humor, I'm too old to lose it now!

Thank you very much for the exploded-view link! Though the roof is different, I hope the floor system is the same. It shows "regular" joists, with a rim-joist, I can work with that! The pink structure is confusing though, it looks like the plumbing isn't as accessible as I hoped.

-Thank you again!
-Bill

[Yanita]

Hi,

Plumbing, is frustrating to say the least, your right, it is not readily accessible, but not difficult to get to.

When you look under your home you will see what we call underbelly fabric/material. It is an oil impregnated type tarp. This holds up the insulation, above the insulation is the water lines and heat ducts.

We have another mod here named JD, we consider him our roof specialist, he will be able to give you the clarity you need on the roof questions. He will probably check in in a few more hours.

Take care,

Yanita

[Bill]

Thanks again, Yanita!

That it's just tar-paper (or the like) is good news.

I look forward to roofing expertise. -Don't want it caving in on me and mine, by my ignorance! That the bottom of the triangle is missing is worrisome.

[Harry]

Hi Bill

I just wanted to add some comments on the wallboard questions you have. Keep in mind that all MHs are not equal. You may find that the factory wallboard was/is attached to the studs with construction adhesive. To remove the adhesive from the studs I use a tool like JD’s (see photo below). You wanted to know if the wallboard is in any way “structural”. Well once the wallboard is cemented to the studs, the wall is certainly stronger. You can however remove and replace the wallboard without the roof sagging….at least while the home is setting and not bouncing down the road…LOL.



Good luck with your project.

Harry

[Yanita]

Hey Bill,

Was just reading thru our post, you might want to complete a profile so JD will have an idea of snow loads, hurricane areas etc...our homes are built for different weather zones.

To complete a profile is a link (in grayish task bar above) "New Friends Request", click it and respond, once done with that, click refresh in your browser, should have the "My Profile Space" link in the same place the new friends request was. Any problems either PM, email, IM me directly.

Thanks again,

Yanita

[JD]

Hi Bill,

On single wide homes with cathedral ceilings, all I have seen are 2x6s attached to a center beam via simpson ties. About as simple as it gets. I would think that the only thing keeping the walls from leaning out is the lack of weight in the design on the roof/ceiling itself. Also, the homes I have seen start with a bedroom and usually a bathroom at one end, the living room and then kitchen and then hall and other rooms. This allows the interior walls to add strength to the overall strength on the home but still may not be considered "load bearing". I don't know if you could remove the interior walls because of this design. I know I wouldn't. On these single wide cathedral homes, it is my opinion to be very careful with added weight on the roof or ceiling. We recently re-roofed one of these homes using our premium 3" insulated roof. This roof weighs about .33 pounds psf. and adds to the strength in the ridge to wall span.

Once you tear into some of these projects, you will see the similarities and difference in the build compared to stickbuilt. Mobile homes usually have a 1x4 sill plate and 2x4 top plate. Some will have a double 2x4 top plate. There are older homes with 2xless wall studs, but I am sure your's is at least 2x4 interior and exterior wall studs. Guerdon is known to build a quality home.

Welcome to the forum and looking forward to your posts.

JD

[Greg]

Bill, Hi & Welcome to the family. I will tell you as I tell all the new members that the support team here is the best in the world. I can honestly say that I don't recall a problem that we could not solve. Now back to your situation.
If you have some carpentry skills you will be all set. yes mobile homes are slightly different than stick built but the methods are about the same. If you buy Mark's book it will help you understand the way they are built.
Don't let Yanita fool you about "the big boys" She does indeed know what she is talking about, If she is not sure of something, she will tell you. Again welcome, Greg

[Yanita]

Thanks Greg for the vote of confidence!

Yanita

[Greg]

Oh, I forgot about Maureen ( Sorry Maureen) She is another Moderator here that is currently very busy with her home buisness and fire watch. She as well knows what she is talking about. Greg

[Bill]

Thank you all! You're all great at making a new-comer feel welcome.

I feel a lot better with the assumptions of 2x4 framing. I'm up on simpson ties & hangers, and expect I won't have any disasters I can't deal with.

I'm not going to tear out any walls, I'm already wary of the roof-pitch/cathedral ceilings. The floor plan has the kitchen and living room as one open area, at one end of the home, with no perpendicular walls until the first bedroom. It's, I'd guess, about a 30' run with no lateral support. I'm not real confident in a simpson-tied roof without joists to hold it together, and will be extra careful not to stress the situation. I almost want to put a wall or at least post at the bar-counter dividing the two spaces. I'd feel better, but I don't think the missus would stand for it!

Thanks for the tip on the possibility of glue on the wall-boards, that won't be fun! But, I know to bring my wrecking bar now. I thought a hammer would do...

You've answered all the questions I had, for that corner... Next, there's the "porch" (covered deck) I plan on walling in, and the new covered deck-entry abutting it. Then the laminate hardwood floors. Then the spongy bathroom floor. Hoping the PB piping holds up until it comes up on the list, about the time of the kitchen remodel, which is before the add-on bedroom dressing area. The raised bed garden and screened porch probably won't happen til next spring.

The exploded diagram clears up a lot, thank you again, Yanita. I'll have a go at the profile page.

I'll try and keep a photo archive of the work, if you guys are at all like me, you love pictures!

Again, thank you all!

-Bill

[JD]

Hi Bill,

I forgot to mention that there are galvanized straps going from rim joist to rim joist over the home, under the roofing.