Crimping Pex Isn't Easy

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busybee1952

I rented the crimpers from the hardware store, got all the fittings and stuff and went to work. I found out that crimping the rings on the pex pipe was almost impossible for me to do! I barely had enough strength to squeeze those crimpers although it seemed to go a little easier once they started ratcheting. I braced them against a board, I held them between my knees so I could use the leg force as well as the hand force, I did everything but stand on my head to get them into a position where I could force the crimp to start. My wrists and arms are sore but I did manage to get the job done. I wouldn't suggest any ladies, especially if you have artheritis in your hands to ever attempt this on your own.

My brother finally came out and helped with the last couple of crimps because I needed someone to hold the pipe in place while someone crimped. I turned the crimping job over to him.

I used a "quck connect" fitting to hook the pex to the copper tubing that runs from the hot water heater. Those "quick connectors" sure don't seem substantial. No rings, no glue, you just shove them on the pipe and pray I guess.

I can't tell you for sure if my work succeeded because once everything was finally attached and we turned the pump on, we found out there is a crack in the main waterline that comes out of the ground and up through the cement slab under the trailer. I didn't cry though. Looks like I might have some digging to do for the next couple of weeks. At least I still have water from the hose.
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Harry
Posts: 1249
Joined: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:45 pm
Location: Citrus county Florida

Hi

I'm sorry you had a hard time. I know what ya mean. I hold the crimper at the very end of the handles to get more leverage.

The last time I used compression fittings was on the washing machine water lines in my home. The fittings were made by Qest. One of the fittings (inside the wall) leaked and made a royal mess. I swore off all gimmick fittings. Also Culligan installed a reverse osmosis system under my sink using somebody's quickie fittings. The Culligan man gave me 2 extra fittings in case his installation leaked!!

Good luck.

Harry
Aside from the roof leak, soft floors, rats, mice and bursted plumbing ........ how do you like it?
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

You get a adapter fitting for copper to pex. You solder on the fitting at one end to the copper pipe.

The other end is threaded and you thread on a copper to pex fitting.

You then crimp on the pex with crimp ring.

Did you check all crimps with a go/nogo gauge ?

If crimp is good, it will slide on over crimp. if crimp is not good it won't.

You'll know instantly if crimp is good.

Glad you got that far and sorry about crack in line.

Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
busybee1952

The hardware store didn't have any idea what a go/no go gauge was. Fortunately for me, so they wouldn't think I was nuts, I had Mark's book with me so I went out and got it and showed it to them. The store owner said he bought the whole display but apparently this gauge wasn't necessary because it wasn't included. Now you know why I come here for advice! LOL Still, I had to make do without the gauge.

At any rate, the good news is that the main line was only cracked about 3" down so I won't have to dig everything up afterall. However, I'm so sick of looking at those waterlines, I'm just going to take a break for a week or so and plant the garden instead.
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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

You can order it from Mark at this page:

http://mobilehomerepair.com/Order3.html#catalog

Scroll down left side to Go/No-Go Gauge @ $6.95 + $4.50 shipping.

It will gaurantee the crimps to be good or bad, if bad, cut out and redo.

It's alot to deal with now, but if bad and they let go, the damage could be very costly.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
busybee1952

So, you think I should test the crimps I already made even if they don't leak now? Just wondered if I am understanding you corretly. I could do that if that is what you mean. I just figured it was too late since I already rented and returned the crimpers.
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Yep, they're not leaking, but if a crimp is not good, it may not show up right away.

I would check all crimps to know for sure and IF any are bad, rent the crimpers to redo.

Without them offering the go/no-go gauge, they shouldn't charge you if a crimp is bad.

They might even buy the gauge from you for future rentals.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
busybee1952

Ok Robert, I ordered the guage and I think you're right! They may not charge me to use the crimpers if I have some bad crimps. Now, just in case, can I ask you another question? If I do find some bad crimps and have to do them over, how do I get the old crimp rings off the fittings? I'm assuming they must be cut but what would I cut it with? The kind of rings the hardware store had were stainless steel. I don't think tin snips would work because I don't think I could get the point of them under the ring. I sure don't want to have to buy new fittings too since some of them were pretty darned expensive.
NMarie
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 1:29 pm
Location: Willits, CA

I'm new to this stuff, but.....I found a website with short videos on pex and its crimping rings, etc. The videos are toward the bottom of the screen and you select the speed of your interent connection to get them to run. They were a good beginning for me, since I'm considering a PEX redo of my mobile home galvanized water lines.

http://www.toolbase.org/TechInventory/T ... tailID=598

Hope this link works. :oops:
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

You asked how to remove crimp rings. Probably more than one way, but my way is Dremel Tool and cutter wheel.

VERY slow and easy so not to cut through into Pex.

FIRST though, get the gauge and check all crimps. Locate correct size on gauge, probably 1/2" and slide onto each ring.

If it slides all the way over the ring, crimp is good.

May turn out to be a mute point if crimps are good so lets keep a positive outlook for now.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
Phaedrus

BusyBee mentions using stainless steel crimp bands; might the annealed copper bands be easier for her to crimp?

I've read about a crimp ring cutting tool, but have not found anyone who used one. Given the tight space for some plumbing lines, it might be easier to use than a Dremel. Has anyone on the board used the crimp ring cutting tool?
busybee1952

The go/no go gauge came in the mail this week so today, while I was under there capping off a drain line, I checked and all my crimps were GO!!!!!!!! Yipee!!!!!!
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Robert
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Posts: 6413
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Hi,

Well now, keeping a positive outlook paid off didn't it ? Congrats, enjoy the water and kudos on a job well done !!

Glad they were all ok.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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Yanita
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Joined: Sat Feb 17, 2007 10:16 pm
Location: Eastern N. Carolina

Hey Busybee,

Good work! You deserve to feel proud of what you have done!

Enjoy your water again!

~Yanita~
The difference between success and failure is who gives up first!
construct30

I'm glad you didn't need to redo anything. I wonder if you were using the new zurn qickclamps? I have never seen any of the round crimps that were anything except copper. I know Rehau makes an expansion system that uses stainless steel, but it uses an expansion type tool not a crimper. I have the zurn tool for the qickclamp type, but I still only use the older copper crimps.

I have the cutter to take the crimps off, but you do have to cut the pipe off close to the fitting to use it. Most of the suppliers say if you make a bad crimp you should cut the piece off that was on the fitting. When that happens you have to hope you can get some extra pipe pulled from that run or you have to use a coupling or run new pipe to the last fitting and cut the crimp off it too. The crimp cutter does work really well, a cut off wheel does too, but don't worry about a nick in the pipe, you should cut off an inch anyway to make the new crimp just don't nick the fitting.

I know in this case it was unnessary, but in the future someone might be reading this post with a problem on a crimp.

Mark
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