Front Porch ideas

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Front Porch ideas

Postby CPA » Fri May 23, 2008 5:17 pm

I'm looking for suggestions on how to build a roof for a front porch and marry it into the home.

Here's what I am doing; This home is on a slope that is mostly rock and when it rains, water flows underneath the home. I want to divert the water flow and build a front/skirt to the home at the same time.

What I decided to do was build a "retaining wall" using railroad ties. I'll drill into the rock and use re-rod to hold the railroad ties in place. I'll put a drain tile in front of the railroad ties to divert the water around the home.

I'll build end caps on the railroad ties to create a garden bed and fill it in with topsoil, then landscape with cactus.

Of course, once I do this, I'll have to pull out the makeshift steps we have been using to get in the front door, which creates the need for a new porch and in turn, calls for the roof (long story eh?).

My thought was to build your typical peaked roof with the peak centered over the middle of the front door. The distance from the right roof edge to the center of the door is 4' 4". I'm attaching a couple of pictures to help visualize this project.

My quandry is; how do I marry the roof to the home so that I don't get water flowing between the two?

Jeff
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby JD » Fri May 23, 2008 7:50 pm

Hey Jeff, Long time no see.

I know you are on very hard rocky substrate, but if it were me, I would still build the 8'-8" x 6' or 8' roof free standing and then just flash the porch roof to the home. I would match the gable over the door but be sure to keep the top of the porch roof at least 2" lower than the door roof to be able to fit the flashing in under the drip edge.

By making making the porch roof free standing, you can use the posts to attach a railing.

JMO
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby CPA » Fri May 23, 2008 8:05 pm

Thanks for the post.

Yeah, I've had a hard time adjusting to the new medication that my neurologist put me on and it has kept me for getting a lot done on this project when you sleep over 12 hours every day, but that is the price to be paid to stay seizure free.

The good news is, that I have my driving privileges back and I can now chase down supplies at will.

At your recommendation, I built the 52 X 8 deck off the back of the home free standing and it came out wonderfully. I was a little concerned because I had never built a deck of that size free standing and I wasn't sure I was up to the task but it is awesome and added a lot to the home.

The one part that I am having difficulty understanding is how the flashing attaches to the home at the point where it reaches the apex on the right hand side where there is no drip edge to slide the flashing underneath. Do I just attach the flashing to the home and silicone the edge? See the picture for the area I am referring to.

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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby JD » Sat May 24, 2008 3:35 pm

If it were me, I would still utilize the drip edge as much as possible. The flashing could go under the drip edge everywhere except that small span. By cutting a slit in the nailing area of the flashing, you would still be able to tuck the nail fin under the drip edge. As long as you have 3/8" or so of the nail fin under the drip edge, it would be able to protect the edge from water getting in behind it. In that short span, a small bead of caulking behind the nail fin and then sealing the top edge of the flashing should seal it up

Image

The left side would come over the top of the right side. By leaving the ends of the flashing cut square, you would have plenty of metal to attach screws and sealant to.

Image

I believe this would be enough to seal the awning for you. But to go a step further, you could use and additional piece of metal or better yet, a piece of Eternabond RoofSeal to tuck under the drip edge above the uncovered span of flashing. I would plan it out to cover the entire exposed area, and also include a slight reverse angle so that water would be falling away from the edge rather than gathering or running against it. The RoofSeal product is very flexible and would be able to make all 3 angles with one piece. Web seal requires a good amount of pressure to "activate" it and make a permanent bond. I use a small steel hand roller but I would think that something like a utility caster wheel for carts and the like would work well too.

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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby CPA » Sat May 24, 2008 3:45 pm

Wow, nice graphic response.

I think I can handle that. Now I need to get my materials list together and get a delivery truck out here so I can get started in this 90 degree heat!

I think we got cheated out of Spring.
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby JD » Sat May 24, 2008 4:17 pm

Let us know how it turns out. Looking forward to finished pictures of the porch. Glad to hear you are doing better now.

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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby sandpoint » Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:41 am

This topic was very helpful. Question is does the flashing just slide up under the drip edge, or do you nail it through the drip edge after sliding it under?
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby CPA » Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:39 pm

I hate to answer for JD but my plans were to just tuck the flashing underneath the drip edge.

I'm trusting that the fit will be rather firm. If it isn't, a little bit of caulk on the back side of the flashing should help keep it in place.

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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby CPA » Mon Jun 09, 2008 3:41 pm

I'm gaining ground on the project:
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby sandpoint » Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:27 pm

Thanks CPA. The only difference for me is I am attaching the rafter to a ledger board that will be installed on the house. But it still left me with the problem of completing the marriage to the house roof without messing up a perfectly good roof. I do not have a gable to deal with because it is on the back of the house. Do i need to remove the thin fascia board first and then install the ledger, or can I install it right over the fascia board? Thanks for all your input!
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby JD » Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:44 pm

Hi Porch People,

1. I would hold the bend of the flashing down 1/4" from the drip edge and add screws there. The screws can be caulked with a pro grade sealant to be sure they are sealed. Tremco Vulkem 116, Sonneborn products, NP-1, OSI® Pro-Series® Polyurethane are all high grade sealants. I use Vulkem 116 for almost everything on roofs and exteriors and have had excellent results for over 15 years or so.

2. A ledger on the home sounds like the porch roof would not be free standing. As homes settle and move, this could create a problem.

JMO
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby sandpoint » Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:31 pm

Thanks JD,
So to get this right in my head, the flashings bent edge should go 1/4" below the drip edge with the bent edge facing up? Should I install counter flashing under the drip edge or just leave that part alone? Also, I was wondering about attaching the roof to the house. I already have a deck attached and it has not moved in 3 years so far If I have to undo everything would be quite the job. But if it should be done then I am sure willing to do it!!

Don
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RE: Front Porch ideas

Postby Mark440 » Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:52 pm

One thread....and a million answers!!

I, too, am building a "cover" for my deck. The first deck area is 16' by 30' - and I have been pondering how to make it free standing. With JD's advice, I now believe I understand how to "join" the two roofs without directly attaching the deck roof to the house roof. Perfect!

I do have one question. The deck has been in place for a few years. The underpinnings are all 4x4's and 2x10's - with ample cross bracing (diagonal) in many places. The deck is free-standing at all points with absolutely no attachments to the house.

I am designing the cover based on placing new 4x4's at measured intervals around the outfacing perimeter of the deck and also utilizing the 2 x 10 underpinnings that are bolted to 4x4's on the inside (next to the house). Each new 4x4 would be bolted securely to the outside edges of the existing deck framework - with the bottom end of the 4x4 mounted in one of those steel "stake" type anchors - duly pounded into the ground at least 30" or so.

For the outside perimeter, the posts will rise about 7.5' above the deck surface, with the lower portion going down the face of the deck about 30". The "inside" posts up next to the house will extend about 9' above the deck with the same depth. With the addition of the steel stakes - will this provide ample stability for the new 4x4's and ultimately, the roof? ( I do plan on doing some diagonal cross bracing on the upper ends of the 4x4's at the roof line.)

All in all, I am trying to strike a balance between my tendency to overbuild - and being uncertain of the steel stakes.Image
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