Intertherm MMBB-056ABHR-06

Questions about repairs and parts for other brands of furnaces and air conditioners. Please note that our speciality is Coleman and Nordyne products, so our knowledge of other brands may be limited.

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basil1977
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:25 pm

Sat Dec 25, 2010 11:28 am

This furnace has become a nightmare. My problems started with an Inducer motor stuck that wouldn't turn. We replaced it but the new motor wouldn't always work. I would have to spin the fan blades inside then turn the furnace back on for it to take off. Next we replaced the black control box thinking it wasn't carrying the correct power to start the inducer motor. Same problem so we took the new inducer motor back thinking the centrifigal switch was bad in it. SECOND new motor won't hardly start on it own at all. I have to spin the fan blades inside and turn the furnace switch back on to get heat. Please Help
Thanks,
Basil


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Greg
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Sat Dec 25, 2010 1:04 pm

I'm no heating expert, but the first thing that comes to my mind is to check the voltage. Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."

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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Sat Dec 25, 2010 7:38 pm

Are you getting 120vac to the motor ?

Is there a diagnostic bulb flashing on the control board ?


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?

basil1977
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:25 pm

Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:33 am

Robert wrote:Are you getting 120vac to the motor ?

Is there a diagnostic bulb flashing on the control board ?


Thanks,
Robert
Yes on both. The light reading which is one flash says it's a "Inducer centrifigal swith is or was stuck closed"

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Robert
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Location: Tennessee

Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:55 pm

Hi,

IF the inducer draft motor is getting 120vac and not losing it during cycle, the motor should run IF wheel is not lodged or damaged.

Then, if it gets to correct speed and airpipe is not clogged up, the centrifugal switch should close.


Make sure you have 24vac to one side of cent. switch.

If this has been done already, then may be time for an hvac tech to diagnose through testing.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?


basil1977
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:25 pm

Mon Dec 27, 2010 10:03 pm

Robert wrote:Hi,

IF the inducer draft motor is getting 120vac and not losing it during cycle, the motor should run IF wheel is not lodged or damaged.

Then, if it gets to correct speed and airpipe is not clogged up, the centrifugal switch should close.


Make sure you have 24vac to one side of sent. switch.

If this has been done already, then may be time for an hvac tech to diagnose through testing.


Thanks,
Robert
I had a Hvac tech fix it today(I hope). It turned out to be the switch inside the inducer. Thats the third motor. Luckily they were all under warrenty so I only had to buy one. I made sure this one was not in the same sequence of serial numbers. Whats the chances of getting 2 bad inducer motors?

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Robert
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Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:07 am
Location: Tennessee

Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:55 am

Anything is possible. Haven't had that happen in 31 years of this, but know it could tomorrow.

Glad it is running again.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?

basil1977
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:25 pm

Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:43 pm

Robert wrote:Anything is possible. Haven't had that happen in 31 years of this, but know it could tomorrow.

Glad it is running again.


Thanks,
Robert
Thanks for the help. I'll be using this site quite a bit as a mobile home owner. I'm glad I found it and there are people like you willing to lend a helping hand. Thanks again

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Robert
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Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:14 pm

You're very welcome, happy to help.



Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?

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