Tile Front Entry

[Psaltee]

Going to tile the front entry. An area 4 x 8. I'll cut out the carpet and use Quik Set mortar to lay the tiles. Are there any differences doing an install like this in a mh or would this install be similar to a stick built house. Also, can I install on the existing plywood floor or do I put in backerboard before I put down the Quik Set and the tiles? Looking forward to getting this done.

[Greg S]

Definitely risky putting tile in a mobile. Tile does not like flex. Generally speaking cement board is highly recommended but more so Ditra is mandatory.

[JD]

Tile floors can have their problems in mobile homes. That being said, the correct way to install this tile is to remove the particle board or plywood subfloor (unless it is 1 1/8" thick) and install 1 1/8" plywood, available at most home stores as Sturdi-floor. As plywood goes, it is cheap, probably $35 a sheet. Before laying down the plywood, make sure to block between floor joists at the cuts and make sure the joists that are already there are very strong with no detectable movement. Extra blocking can be added to strengthen the joists.

Then install 1/4" CBU, hardi backer or cementuous backer board of your choice. The backer should be set in thin set mortar, using a notched trowel. Use the screw pattern from the CBU manufacturer. You will need to tape and mud (more thin set) all seams. Backer board usually comes in 3x5 sheets. The 1 1/4" ply, mud, backer, mud, tile can raise floor enough to be a major problem with the door. I would reposition the door rather than shortcut the tile.

Then comes the tile. More thin set, notched trowel. Be sure to "twist" the tile into place and that there is no voids of thin set under the tile. Use a straight section of 2x4 to help you keep all tile edges even with no dips or bumps. Let this cure fully.

Then do the grout. I use epoxy grout unless it is a huge floor. It is more expensive, but it does not need sealing or more importantly re-sealing later. If you use standard grout, you will need to come back 2-4 weeks later and seal the grout.

That's the way I would do it.

You can take any short cuts you want, but it likely to show up on your floor.

[Greg S]

JD in this day and age tile is never set without separation membrane. The idea of obtaining a solid no flex floor in any home is old school.

[JD]

Yes Greg,you are right. I should have mentioned Ditra. I was more responding to this 4'x8' installation, or a single sheet of plywood. Ditra would more than double the cost of the prep materials for this 4x8. 2 small rolls is about $120.

L-360 deflection limits is about live load tests and not expansion. This deflection under weight limit has not changed since it was defined in 2001.

[Psaltee]

In our stick built house we installed tile at the door front and used backerboard. Not much of a problem. Laid the tile with Quik Set and colored the mortar to compliment the tile and wala! It really looked great. Didn't have any entry problems with the tickness of the floor. Door opened and close without any drag. After reading your notes and comments I was thinking back on this whole idea of flex(ing). My wife and I were talking over dinner about this whole flex idea since we didn't do anything like that in our stick built house. We're just unclear and still wondering how the whole flex idea plays into this install.

[ponch37300]

The whole idea about flexing is that if the floor under the tile flexes the tile or grout will crack. Your floor needs to be completely solid. Also the use of ditra, an uncoupling membrane "seperates" the tile from the subfloor so the tile is kind of floating. It's actually a really nice product and easy to work with but pretty expensive but shouldn't be to bad for a 4x8' area. The problem with mobile homes is they aren't usually on footings and they move and shift and get out of level over time. Which will crack the tile. But like mentioned I think the biggest issue will be the door clearance. Like JD said you really want 1 1/4" subfloor and then your cement board or ditra and then your tile. If your subfloor now is pressboard or MDF it will have to be torn out and replaced with plywood. Another thing is the floor joists in mobile homes. They need to be solid to support all the plywood, cement board, tile, and thinset and grout. That's a lot of weight to be added and the way mobile homes are designed with the two steel beams down a few feet in from the edge and the joists cantalevered out to the edge it doesn't really make for good support to keep from flexing.

I don't understand your tile install in your last house? Quickset and mortar? Do you mean thinset and grout?

[Steve-WA]

done tile in a few rentals - few problems with cracks from shifts. just sayin

[Psaltee]

Thinset and grout! Obviously had something else on my mind. I appreciate your concern for doing the job 'right' I would normally approach it in a similar fashion however, after knowing our mh is 'pit set' Iwonder if increasing the spending isn't alittle overkill. I don't want to be misunderstood here since the gentleman from WA state realized little to no effect on the tile work he accomplished doing it without the added expense. I like both suggestions. I am leaning towards the thinset/grout option until I physically see it might need the membrane. I am going to do what I can to make sure that the tile install works well and has astethic appearnce. Will keep you posted.

[Steve-WA]

Worst case, do a little scrapin' & gluein'and replace broken tiles if they do happen.

Gentleman . . . Yeeeeaaaahhhh right