Poorly Done Exterior Walls - Need Help

[Ignited4Christ]

Hi there,

Just a question of how best to resolvea problem with our exterior walls.

I just discovered that Fleetwood did not line the front and back exterior walls of our '96 doublewide with OSB. They did line the sides. Needless to say, this is a nightmare for insulation purposes. We are about to resize the openings and install new windows to help with power bills, but it seems a waste with all the air leaking in from the walls as a whole.

How do we go about installing OSB? What materials do we need to do it correctly and is there anything we should know about preparing the walls and finishing the job?

Any help would be appreciated. Things are finally moving along with our remodel! I wanted to also know if there is anything we should know about resizing the window openings. I know about framing, but not sure about the difference with a mobile home.

Thanks for any help at all, guys. You've been great!

~Lisa S.

[Greg]

Lisa, as long as you are planning on doing the windows, putting OSB on the walls is not really too much more work. I will assume you have Vinyl siding. You will need to remove the siding. Buy a siding unlocking tool for this, they are cheap and make the job go a lot faster. Once the siding is off, reframe the windows and sheath with OSB, Install house wrap (tyvec) then reside.

A note about windows. Don't cheap out here, spend the little extra and buy a quality window. This is a purchase that can last the life of the home.

Greg

Here's the like for a siding unlock tool.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?par ... &cId=PDIO1

[bobfather99]

+1 on getting good quality windows(they will pay for themselves, energy efficiency)
Some types of windows qualify for a energy savings tax credit, check into that too.

I would STRONGLY recommend Tyvec or equivalent underneath the siding as well. Keep that moisture out!!!

[Ignited4Christ]

Hey Greg

We got the siding tool, and we are about to tear down the old front porch and start with the osb/tyvek stuff. We have to cut out and re-frame spaces for our new windows,though, before the OSB can go up, and I've done some research already, but still a little unsure about secure installation. I want to make them as insulated and waterproofed as possible, without going crazy with the price. I've heard to 1.) line top and sides with caulk 2.) flap tyvek over the top flange before flashing in 3.) flash the bottom in such a way that you don't need a sill pan. I've heard that the fiberglass insulation wouldn't be effective unless we used the entire thickness because it insulates by trapping all the air - and thin bits crammed in wouldn't insulate really at all. Do we use low expansion spray foam, then?

We have 34.5 x 57 5/8 wood Ply-gem double pane, double hung windows 4 9/16th deep ($137-$148 each), two of which do not have the plastic flange behind the exterior molding. We were going to buy 6" flashing tape...will that be sufficient?

Thanks so much. You don't even know how much money you've saved us to this point. We are very very grateful.

Lisa S.

[flcruising]

My suggestion would be to use a self-adhered flashing membrane like 'Grace Vycor Butyl'.

Here is an installation procedure - http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/tem ... tml&did=26

[Ignited4Christ]

That looks good, but they use a sill pan, and i've read that you don't have to use one if you know how to flash tape the tyvek on the bottom of the window.

Also, the "weather resistive barrier" they mention several times...is that the tyvek?

And "Install Vycor head flashing under weather resistive barrier along header. Is that what I mentioned in my post about the flapoftyvek along the top of the window, but they are saying to put flashing underneath it, and then tape over the top?

Thanks!
L.S.

[Ignited4Christ]

And how would the steps be different for an UN-flanged window? Am I able to add flange or no?

[flcruising]

I would simply supplement the sill plate for flashing membrane. The intent is to have the water flow down onto overlapping flashing pieces. Weather resistive barrier = Tyvek or equivalent

My installation procedure would be like this...

• 1. Tyvek the whole wall (after sheathing of course). Wrap into the window opening a couple inches.
  2. Install sill flashing over the tyvek and onto the sill framing.
  3. Cut and fold back the tyvek at the window head.
  4. Run continuous bead of silicone caulk or rope caulk around window opening.
  5. Install window.
  6. Fold tyvek over window head flange.
  7. Install side flashing over window jamb flange.
  8. Install head flashing over window head flange.
  9. Use low expansion foam on interior of window around perimeter.

[Ignited4Christ]

Ok, that looks great. My husband is getting started this coming week. Before we put the windows in though, let me ask this.

Can you tell me what width Vycor to use? I was thinking 6", but they have a 4" and a 9" as well.

Thanks!
Lisa S.

[flcruising]

I would probably choose the 6" width. The 4" could be used for steps 7 & 8 above, but then you'd have to lap several layers to create the sill pan.