mobilehomerepair.com

* I've downloaded the Aberdeen Home Repair Manual.
* I have a '74 mobile home (14' x 60') with a roof that looks like that in the manual-Chapter 11.
* The home has a 8'x14' hole in the roof over the last room (bedroom) of the home.
* I've rebuilt the 3 rafters that were broken. (And the inspector's approved them.)
* I've put a plywood roof on because I was going to put on rolled roofing.
* I've now found that it's not legal to use rolled roofing for that small of a slant.

Because of a lack of money (SS is my only income) I would like to repair just the section of the roof that was damaged rather than the entire roof as shown in the manual.

Question: How can I seal (so the inspector will be happy) the metal roofing described in the manual with the original metal roofing?

Thanks so much,
Sandi

Hi & welcome. I would do the roof just as the manual describes, but just do from the end to just past the damaged area. You should be able to screw down flashing on the front edge to seal it on that end. That will also give you a point to continue from should funds allow you to continue at a later date.

Greg

Thanks for your response! The edges of the metal panels are such that they can be attached to the next piece. Should I just cut that last panel down the length so that it ends with the flat surface of the panel laying directly on the old roof? And then screw a piece of flashing over that?
Sandi

Go past the old roof at least a foot, then where you order the metal roofing will have different options that work with your metal roof you bought--most have abook or samples of it--it is hard to discribe but it is like aflashing but made to work with the roof, ours came in 12 ft lenghts I think that is the common length--I know when I looked in the book that came with ours it had the type you needed--the book is 3 hours away right now or I would scan it sorry-- then when you saved up the money you can take off the small metal strip and keep adding a new roof--
Good Luck a metal roof is so easy,just make sure you hit the wood rafters--mark them in advace--sorry a inside joke w my dh
Melissa:)

I would also leave that last ribbed area where the panels over lap. That will give you a lip to divert water, just in case any gets past your sealants. If you cut it, the water will just go into the building. A flashing can go from the top of the last panel, beyond that ribbed area and then down to your old roof. If you order this flashing from an hvac duct contractor, not only can they make a nice custom fit for you, they can also put support ribs running the length of the flashing material. This will help stop the loud popping noise when that big piece of metal "oil cans". I would also attach the flashing to both surfaces using Eternabond DoubleStick Tape where the metal surfaces meet. This material alone is enough to water proof the joint and it is also tenacious enough to probably hold it forever, but most importantly, it will create a dielectric insulator between the metals. This will help stop the electrolysis / electro-chemical action that rusts out repairs like this. If there is any gap between the flashing and the roof metals, it needs to be insulated.

Doing an Internet search for "hvac duct contractor," I find companies that install air conditioning and heating systems. They don't seem to do custom flashing. What should I put in the search engine to find the right type of hvac duct contractor that you're referring to.

Confused in Seattle,
Sandi