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I'm getting ready to start redoing my 1965 Great lakes and the ceiling needs to be redone and I would like to reinsulate the ceiling and wall's well since it only has 2" walls what should I use ??

I called the local lumber yard and they say my only option is Foam board insulation or Blow in but I'm not sure how to get blow in in the ceiling ??

Anyone have any other suggestions ???

If you are redoing it, You might think about going to 2x4 walls not ideal but better.

I would try to stay away from blown in, it is MESSY if you need to do any work in the area that has it. if you need to change a light fixture you will have a pile on the floor.

You could think about having the walls foamed, again not ideal, but better.

Greg

They are saying these are your only options because typically R13 is the thinnest fiberglass insulation they will have, which requires a 2x4 wall. I like Greg's idea of increasing the wall size. If you remove the paneling, you could add a 2x2 or 2x3 to the existing studs to make room for more insulation. Keep in mind that a 2x4 is 3.5" wide and two 2x2's put together is only 3". If I were doing this, I would run 2x3's or 2x6's though a table saw to get the full 3.5".

The only easily available 1.5" fiberglass insulation I know of is the blanket type with the plastic sheeting on one side, similar to water heater insulation. You can get this stuff in full rolls from pole barn and steel building suppliers/dealers. The stuff comes 6' wide, so you would have to cut it.

JD

That's a great Idea on ripping 2X6's and adding them to the existing studs I think I will go this route..

If you go this route, I would rely mostly on a liquid nail type product (PL Premium polyurethane Construction Adhesive - The Best!) and only use maybe three screws to hold it together, high, middle, low. I would also countersink the screws pretty deep and pre-drill a pilot hole for the 3" - 3 1/2" screw. You want to penetrate the original 2x2 by one inch. Be careful not to run the screw through the 2x2. You could counter sink by first drilling a 1/8" pilot hole as deep as 3" and then drill a 3/8" hole over the pilot hole for the countersink. Countersink an inch or so. Again, be careful you don't screw through the exterior siding.

I use a Speedlock Countersink (picture below). You can adjust the pilot bit to be as long as possible and then drive the unit in as far as the countersink portion will let you.