Complete Remodel Questions

[rgray58]

I have been in a 1997 Clayton double-wide (~1800 sq.ft) since purchasing new, thinking of a complete remodel, and wanted to run my idea for input, suggestions, cautions, etc. I would rent a couple Pods and empty the place before starting the following:

1) DIY - remove kitchen cabinets, all doors, carpet, all molding (crown, strips, doors, etc.),
2) Strip ceiling popcorn (DIY or hire),
3) Hire a drywall company to tape and mud all joints including newly exposed ceiling/wall joints and then skim coat all walls and ceilings to paint-ready,
4) DIY - replace the all-in-one electrical box/receptacles and install standard electrical boxes (type that clamp onto drywall) and then install standard electrical receptacles,
5) DIY - all doors (If I can use standard, pre-hung doors and modify to fit narrower walls, great. If not, hire a carpenter to build doors.)
6) DIY - Paint walls and ceiling.
7) DIY - Install new kitchen cabinetry.
Hire flooring company for new floors (hardwood, carpet, tile, linoleum, whatever)
9) Move back in. Consider new crown molding as an extra.

Any suggestions or cautions?

[Greg]

Very doable, in fact it's been done by a few here, me included.
I would do things slightly different though.

First, relevel the home before you start. Check for ANY sub floor issues first and make ant needed repairs. Next I would remove ALL factory sheetrock since it is an odd thickness and you plan on doing electrical work. As long as the walls are open to the studs, you can mount the new electrical boxes on the studs where they belong instead of through the sheetrock and make any electrical changes & upgrades. Don't forget to add 3 way switches in some areas, nothing I hate more than walking through a dark room to find a light switch. As long as you are at it, you can add any ceiling boxes for overhead lights if you want.

Next, figure out what you want for doors and make the nessary changes to the door frames so the new doors will fit.

Windows?? Since you live in a mobile home, I don't have to say any more, you know what I'm talking about. Now is the time!!

Any plumbung issues?? Now is the time to make any updates, add shutoff valves etc. How about a full size 60" bath tub, you can easily move a wall 6" at this point to fit one in if you want.

Now you can re rock the walls with STANDARD 1/2" rock and take care of any insulation issues on the outside walls. Don't forget that real wood molding is not that expensive, but adds a lot to the finished look of a room.

Kitchen cabinets. There are a few QUALITY cabinets that don't cost an arm & leg. Stay away from ANYTHING with Partical board in it.

Flooring, A good laminate is about bullet proof, and will look good, easy to put down.

Depending on your skill level most of this work you can do yourself, it is not hard, but WILL take some time.

In case you haven't noticed, I LOVE spending other people's money, But as I said, it's nothing I haven't done myself. Greg

[rgray58]

Thanks for the advice. I did not think about releveling but that is definitely a smart idea that I totally missed. I also didn't think about potential subfloor issues so your idea definitely will have me having a plan in place if I find problems.

I had considered taking down the sheetrock but that is where I thought to draw the line on expense. Electrical is not really a problem, other than the all-in-one electrical boxes. I have already swapped out a few with the readily available boxes (Home Depot, Lowe's) that clamp to sheetrock and then put in a standard light switch. My single-hung, double-pane windows are actually okay with the exception of one single pane that got moisture inside. But that is in one of the kid's bedrooms, toward the back of the house and is not a real appearance problem. Double-hung windows would be better but again, trying to draw the line. All windows have marble sills but the sides and tops are framed with wallboard. Now that I think about it I would probably replace with wood. The tub off the kid's bedroom is fine being as no one really uses it other than as a shower. I have thought about replacing the tub with a shower unit to create a storage closet. We already have a full garden tub with jet system in the master bath, along with a shower unit. All plumbing locations already have accessible shut-off valves, to include a master shut-off valve in the laundry room. The wood moulding would obviously have been a definite for the doors and I missed planning to do the same for the windows but will now. As for ceiling moulding - I definitely want it but planning to hold off. I can do that even after fully moved back in with a friend's guidance and tools. Plus, another expense to wait on.

My thinking was to set a two-week timeframe which is why I was looking to use contractors for much of the work. (I also s~<k at sheetrock.) Friends and the wife can help empty the house then I ship the wife off for a two-week vacation with her folks. One kid will be away at school and the other can stay with friends. I can stay with my neighbors while I oversee contractors and do some of the work myself "with a little help from my friends." Move everything back in and the wife returns to a completed project (except for the inevitable redecorating that she will want to do.)

But again, thanks for the ideas about releveling and the subfloor as this was just the type advice I was looking for.

[Dean3]

Your place was built later than the date for asbestos use in the popcorn(accoustical)cieling spray so removing it Yourself shouldn't be a breathing hazard. You can just scrape the bumps down dry(dustmask time regardless)and let the mudders skim it or You can dampen it with water and take it off to the paper face of the rock(much harder)and add screws to cracked joints,,the latter is a better choice if there are adhesion problems with the popcorn.

Of course if the popcorn has been painted it will be a *bear* to scrape while dry and the damp method is "out the door",just won't work.

Dean