Bathroom remodel....span between floor-joists&other ques

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oldfart
Posts: 431
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:31 am

Well Folks wish I had my digital camera for this job. Love to have some before&after photos....ain't gonn'a happen. Anyways..right to the questions. The floor-joists in this old 12x70s.w. average "roughly" 20 in. apart. I'm layin' down 3/4in T&G Plywood. I'm putting in cripples (2x4's between floor-joists) on all the long seams so's I have something to nail/screw to. Where the plywood buts together I'll have a cripple to attach to. Now...where the toilet flange/closet flange is.....hmmmmm? Folks I can't cut the old flange off, cut a nice neat hole in the plywood and poke a new flange down thru, screw it to the new plywood flooring and glue it to the septic line. Ain't gonn'a happen. I've got to lay the floor down around the old flange in 2 peices...simple as that. One in front and one behind. Mebbe this will help explain. The toilet flange is a T. The top of the T is where the wax-ring goes. Just below that there is a 2in. port for a vent-pipe. I can't change the fitting. So how do I support the toilet flange or can I count on the 3/4in. plywood to do the job? Audie..the Oldfart...
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JD
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Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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Hi Audie,

I'll try to show you how I do toilet flanges. Like your situation, I don't remove the flange unless it needs it. Below are some drawings I made. Sorry, not a draftsman or anything. Basically, I will cut plywood pieces A & B as one piece of plywood first, and then cut the hole and 2 lines in the one piece of plywood. Always goes back together well that way. I use a compass to draw the circle and a jig saw to cut it out.

I tried to show the basic nailing, but I am sure you get the idea. I put the "T" blocks together first then slide them into place. I do use a miter saw to cut the blocking so that it fits like a glove. The nails at the joint of the T hold the T together and are not in the joists, just looks like it.

This may not be exactly like your framing, depending on orientation of the joists and which wall the toilet is on, but it would be done basically the same way.

Piece B is nailed down to a joist and Blocking B, so that inch or two sticking out is plenty strong for the 2 screws on that side. I make sure that Piece A is a tight enough fit to get the top, bottom an right side screws in, so that part is supported be the two joists.

I have done probably 100 - 150 floors this way and have never had a problem. I do keep it small like in the drawing to keep the pieces manageable. It is important the the joists and blocking is level and to keep an eighth inch gap in the plywood pieces so that the repair work does not show up through the vinyl. You fill the gaps of all seams with flooring compound as usual.

Hope this helps.


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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
oldfart
Posts: 431
Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 10:31 am

WAGH!!! J.D. many thanks for the post! I did just what ye said as it would fit into my floor-joists and I think I've got a near 'nuff snug fit. Took me a while to figger out how to determine the dia. of the underside of flange as it's quite hard to see. Here's how I did it. I layed 2 pieces of 3/4in. wood on each side of the flange..tucked underneath..but on top of the floor-joists... just as the flooring would be. The distance between the pieces of wood told me how wide the cut had to be. Simple..eh! I knew the center of the flange had to be 12in. from the back wall. Then it was a simple thing to find a suitable dia. object to lay out the circle. In my case it was the lid from a coffee can. Centered it up...cut the line from front to back and layed it down in 2 pieces. HUZZAH! Just like you did. Again...many thanks my friend. YMHS...Audie..the Oldfart...!
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