Partial front wall removal.

[somno]

Hi
This is a first time post soooo I hope I've got it all right.
OK here goes. I just purchased a 1980 Fleetwood Suncrest mobile home in Florida. My wife wants most of the front wall removed ( includes sliders and one window) REMOVED. I have my sawsall and am ready to go. But I don't know what's behind the wall panels. Is this a weight bearing wall. Will I have to put up an overhead support? Included (I think) is a photo showing the inside view of the said wall.
Thanks for your help.
Jim Buckland
[img]userpix/2763_Dec_2007_006_1.jpg[/img]

[Harry]

Hi

I'm in Florida too.

I can't tell for sure if the wall is the end of the MH or if it is an interior wall.

Well ....either way I think it IS a weight bearing wall. If you were to remove the paneling at the center line you would see the column(s) aka posts in the form of 2 or 3 2x4 studs close together.



Harry

[Jim from Canada]

You mean like this?....I suppose it could be done.

Jim

[somno]

Hey Jim
Yea like that. It looks like you didn't even have to put in a header of a 2x6 or x8 for support. Are you saying it's not a weight bearing wall?

Jim

[Greg]

Somno, Hi & welcome. It looks from the picture like a single wide, But I can't tell for sure. In a single, MOST interior walls are not load bearing, the exception is when the ceiling height changes at that wall.
ALL exterior wall are load bearing. Greg

[somno]

hey Greg

It's a double wide. See the cieling beam seam. So it sounds like I can do it but I will need a header for support. Althought Jim shows it being done. My head is spinning.

Thanks
Jim

[Jim from Canada]

Yes, mine is a single wide. As you can see, I built a header for over the windows. The side walls do bear more weight but support at the peak on the end walls is important. Hope this pic helps more.

Jim

[Jim from Canada]

The top pieces going in. I prebuilt the lower section and then filled in the top. Not the best way, but faster having a section pre built before demo.

[Harry]

Hi Jim

Is that a 4x4 header or 2 each 2x4s joined together.

Looks good.

Harry

[Jim from Canada]

It is 3 2X6's laminated together with 1/2" plywood in between each board. Glued with PL Premium and screwed together with deck screws. This makes the total width 5 1/2" which matches the depth of the wall (2X6 walls). When I build something, I make it strong!

Jim

[Harry]

Hi

Nice work.

That will handle a Canadian snow load for sure.

Harry

[Harry]

Hi

I made a header for a sliding glass door project using 3 each 2x4s screwed and glued. Got the photo around somewhere.

Also ....I added support piers below the king studs.

Harry

[SpongeBob]

Hi, Here in N.H. also we have to use 2x6 exterior wall framing for all new work . It must be able to take R-19 insulation.
-Bob

[Jim from Canada]

I also put in a patio door. Here is a pic of me making the header (lintel). It is solid laminated plywood. A combination of 1/2" and 3/4" plywood, ripped to the height I needed. I had to tie it into the top plate on either side of the door as it was replacing that section of top plate to get the height on the header. Again PL Premium adhesive and deck screws were used. It was also PL'd and screwed into the jack studs and king studs, so the whole framing around the perimeter of the door is, in effect, one piece with the header replacing the top plate over the door. Strong!

Jim

[somno]

Hey All,

Just wanted to let you know this is a real education for me. The pictures are great ( a thousand words ). I will have this forum as reference when I tare into the job. Althiugh I'm a little Intimidated by what you've said. Experience is a great teacher.

Thanks again.
Jim Buckland