Question about nailing wall structure to the floor

[76artcraft]

Hey!
Just a quick one here.

I had a double closet that I've been turning into a smaller single closet to open my room up more.

So I'm just taking the the "wall structure"(closet divider) and moving it a few feet, but I noticed when they constructed the closet they laid the carpet down first than built the wall structure(don't know what to call it) on top of it .

So when I nail/screw it into place again should I just put it on top of the carpet I have now like whoever built my MH or should I try to use lathes or something?

And also I know people use a plum-bob when putting the walls in should I use one for a mobile home or is it better to just measure?

Or would it be OK to just measure if since I don't own a plum-bob?

Thanks again
Sam

[JD]

The closet wall is non-structural. You could use the utility grade 1x4's or even the 2x3 white wood if you like. You can screw the bottom plate over the carpet if you want. It sure would be easier than cutting the carpet and installing tack strip. But if you do it this way, you may need to go under the home to block the area where your screws are going. You don't want to just screw down into particle board. If you don't want to go under the home, then cutting the carpet to get a good connection between the bottom plate and particle board may be necessary. For the closet, I would build it parallel with the doors and other walls. Your home/room may not be level. In order for it to look right, it would need to be even with the other walls.

JMO
JD

[mrfixit64857]

I agree with JD. "make the wall fit the house" my dad used to say. What he meant was that any new construction should be similar to what's already there. A 2x6 partition in a home with all 2x4 wall construction can and usually does stick out... I have seen this, and it was surprising how obvious it was.
I might want to add, too, that if it's at all possible, make sure your new wall lines up with the ceiling joists or can be blocked also, so that there is some dimensional stability to your closet. if it's not tight on top, it will forever wobble and bother you.

[Nichodemus]

Do make sure that you have something under the floor for support. My home has a non-load bearing bathroom wall that is basically only 4 2x3s and some paneling. The factory builders sat it on particle board, the wall being parallel to two floor joists. No blocking or support other than the particle board. I went to replace the bathroom floor, and found the wall had sagged down about a half inch. Had to jack it up and put perpindicular blocks between the floor joists to support it.

[76artcraft]

Hi,
Thanks for the advice.
I wouldn't have thought of putting blocking under the floor for support- good to know.

I'm using all the same materials from the old closet, they are still in good shape and I was careful when I took it apart. I didn't have to take apart the frame(it's just one interior wall piece. The 2 other sides are exterior walls) - I'm using the same one just moving it over a few feet.
The "frame"(?) for the closet is made out of 1x4's.

I was just thinking of adding some more horizontal 1x4's to the frame so I could have more support to put shelves in the closet.

Then to make sure I'm putting the frame in parallel to the exterior wall I'm thinking I should just measure both top and bottom instead of measuring the top and using a plum-bob to determine where the bottom half of the frame should be (like in a house)...in case my MH isn't level... is this correct?

(All my doors and windows shut/open OK)

I'll put some pictures of my progress in my picture album gallery.
And I welcome all comments...(I'll take all the help I can get!)

Thanks Lot's!
Samantha

[JD]

Hi Samantha,

The 1x4s will be fine as long as you aren't putting a lot of weight in there.

In your case, I would measure to walls or especially doors in the area next to where your closet will be. This way your closet wall will be parallel with the next wall, door or straight object next to it. If it is just out in the middle somewhere with nothing really to relate it to, then measuring from the exterior wall should be fine.

Yes, no plumb-bobs. Reminds me of when my Dad called a cabinet maker out to do custom cabinets on the company boat, a 120' research boat. The guy was walking up the gang plank with his tool box and 6' level. My Dad and the skipper just laughing.

JD

[mrfixit64857]

Maybe the guy just wanted to watch the bubble go back and forth all on its own, lol...


If you can, you might want to add a sheet of plywood to that end cap with your shelf supports for stability's sake. just an idea.

[76artcraft]

LOL a level on a boat...mmmm...

Mrfixit just wondering did you mean plywood instead of putting paneling back up or plywood underneath the paneling?

I was going to put the paneling back on all 3 sides and screw my shelf supports (like some kind of small board) into the wall where I put the added 1x4's and on the other side in the closet the shelf supports will be screwed into the wall "joists". Then just set my shelf in on the supports(similar to my other original closet in bathR, but probably a lot sturdier). I'll probably use particle board for the shelves(as much as I hate it!) because I figure It'll be more lightweight.

How does that sound?

Then for the door I intend to use one of the original closet sliding doors, but turn it into an out swing door. I want to make it all flush so it doesn't look like a door is there.

It'll take awhile because I only get to work on it when my son takes his nap.
But when I'm done and if it looks really good I'll show it off...

Thanks
Sam

[mrfixit64857]

What I was suggesting was the plywood UNDER the paneling, so it will give a bit of rigidity to it. Paneling might work just fine by itself; I tend to go overboard sometimes, all the while claiming to err on the side of caution:).
When you consider how my family tends to overload little things like shelves and drawers, I try to make sure they'll take what's thrown at (or ON) them!

[chasMB]

Hi Samantha,

Yes, no plumb-bobs. Reminds me of when my Dad called a cabinet maker out to do custom cabinets on the company boat, a 120' research boat. The guy was walking up the gang plank with his tool box and 6' level. My Dad and the skipper just laughing.

JD

But it also makes a great straight edge, I use one for that all the time.