Walls/Floors together

[Grapeape]

Hello everyone. This is my first post, but I've been enjoying your forum for quite a while.

I've got the manual and have a pretty good understanding on replacing flooring. My problem, in many spots of our newly purchased "Fallin' Downer" (as opposed to fixerupper) is that the lower portion of the exterior walls is rotten. Actually it's eaten. The previous owner used plywood for his underpinning in the front of the house and the termites have gotten fat and happy.

I'm planning on taking off as much paneling as necessary to make sure I get all the termites evicted or assasinated and I'll replace studs as necessary. What I'm so confused about is that bottom 2x4 under each wall. The majority of these boards will have to be replaced, but how do I replace it when all the 2x4 studs are resting on it and they are holding up the trailer?

I don't have any pics available, but if you have the manual, turn to page 3-4. The area I'm referring to is show in the top pic. The new 2x4 is being screwed into the 2x4 to which I am referring.

Also, on page 7-8, the top pic shows what looks like a floor joist under where the door would close. How do you replace a floor joist that has an exterior wall on it?

Real quick notes to take into account: I'm average at best with my DIY skills: I'm not near as strong as I used to be b/c of my back: We are trying to get out as inexpensive as possible and will probably replace the trailer itself in 3-5 years (it's a 1978 Liberty singlewide).

Thanks for any and all help!

Jim

[Grapeape]

Sorry to post again so quickly, but I just found the diagram that was floating around a couple of weeks ago. The parts I'm going to have to replace are the "bottom sill" and the "bottom plate". Thanks,
Jim

[Harry]

Hi

Sounds like the problems I had with my 1988 DW. Rot and bugs attacked the back side of the home. Rain splashed off the deck and started the rot …then the bugs moved in.

I had to remove the siding. I found studs, floor pan, floor joists, rim joists and siding all needing repair/replacement.

I did a lot of “sistering” with screws and construction adhesive.

I worked 8’ at a time and braced the wall with a 4x4 to avoid the wall sagging.

I added 10 adjustable outriggers. As I recall they are rated to support 900 lbs each. I also added weight to the kitchen so I felt better with the added support of 9,000 lbs. Mark sells the adjustable outriggers on this site.

I also replaced doors, insulation and bellywrap.

I used hammers, chisels, sawsall, circular saw, jacks, wire cutters and pliers.

I ran into lots of wiring. Be sure to replace the nail guards. I also ran into a million staples.

Come back with any questions.

Harry

[Harry]

Hi

Here's a shot of the finished job.



Harry

[Greg]

Hi Jim & welcome, It sounds to me like you are messing with is also called a rim joist. It is a doable DYI job, as you know it will take more time than work to do. As Harry said work in small sections and use lots of bracing in the area that you are working in. Greg

[Grapeape]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Keep 'em coming folks.

Harry, from your first pic, it looks like our problems are/were similar. Do you by chance have any close up photos? I have metal siding and was really hoping to not have to take it off. It also sounds like I just need to start at the bottom and work my up and over on each little section. What a nightmare.

Thanks again.

[lefties]

and if the walls are ok when replacing the floor do you need to go under the walls with the new plywood? Would there be structural ramifications if not done? Thx

[Harry]

Hi Grapeape

I do not know how to do a REAL repair to the subject area without removing the siding.

You might get away with removing the bottom 36" of the siding to do the repairs then doing a Bubba type repair to coverup the bottom 36".

Harry