New guy,odd roof shape with broken bow frames.

[upstateman]

I am in the process of planning a complete interior and exterior remodel.I was looking into doing a roof over but after inspection,I have found many broken bow frames under the metal roof along with many pin hole rust spots.Should I tear the entire metal roof off and build common rafters, like the new units, or just do the roof over as planned?The roof is odd shaped and I am unsure how to do the 1x4 perlins and how to run the metal over the peak.I could also build a truss roof.It's a lot more money,but I am willing as I intend to pass this property onto my youngest son.

Here's a pic er two.I'd like to do the roof like my friend's white trailer back behind mine.

[Greg]

I think it all depends on how deep into the job you want to get. You will have to weigh the overall condition of the home into your decision. You may need to beef up the wall studs to properly support the added weight. Another option would be a free standing pole barn type roof.

Greg

[upstateman]

I really have no other choice.All I can do is get a demo permit and tear it down.It was my dad's place and the place I have lived all my life.I have seen other trailers done with an A frame roof with the frames set on 24 inch centers and built with 2x6 studs.This is how my friends roof is done using a 3/12 pitch.

[Greg]

Please don't get me wrong, ANYTHING is possible and I do understand your thoughts. You will need to do a lot of planning and financial figuring to make your decision. There are a few here that will tell you that you are crazy to even think about a job like this, but you have to make the call. If the home is in a park keep that in mind, but if you own the land anything done will increase the value.

Greg

[ponch37300]

Let me add some suggestions if you do go with a wood truss type roof. In your picture of the homemade trusses it has no bottom chord. The bottom chord keeps the walls from spreading apart, this is especially important in mobile homes. As the weight from the roof pushes down on the walls they will spread apart if you don't have ties keeping them from doing so. I have fixed a garage that the original owner did similar to the trusses in your picture and the walls had spread almost a foot out. Had to use come alongs and pull the walls back into place and then rebuild the trusses. So if you do go the homemade wood truss way keep that in mind when planning on truss design. Also I'm not a fan of 24" spacing for trusses. Overtime your sheathing will sag and yo will notice this. Around here most trusses are spec to 19.2". So with an 8' sheet of plywood it will land on 5 trusses.

Also look into pre made trusses. They can be bought fairly cheap. I did a garage last year for a guy and they were somewhere around 25 bucks each for 24' trusses. I'm not sure I could build them for that price and they build them on jig tables so each one is pretty close to the same.

[upstateman]

Thanks all.I do own the land.I actually have a house and two trailers on the same land.All occupied by me and my mom.One trailer will be demo'ed once I get this trailer back in good condition.

I can do full trusses for $17 each with the full bottom cord.I got a local price of $60 each for my 12 x 12 out building.I think that's due to only needing 8.When I do trusses on 24 inch centers,I do perlins to lay sheathing on.I guess it would be better to shorten the span and lay perlins on top of the sheathing for the roof metal and foam.I would like to keep the roof as quite as possible.We get some seriously loud down pours here.Loud enough you can't have a conversation without yelling.The reason I like the rafter style is to allow for a cathedral type ceiling.I'm not tall,but I have knocked a few light fixtures down when putting on my shirt on and one when I was stretching.I understand the wall spreading issue.I just don't understand why my friends place has stayed together for the past 17 years.He did no other work in the walls.His has a double plywood gusset at the eve,and has a 6 inch over hang at the wall.He used hurricane ties at the wall connection.On the inside,he has a flat 16 ceiling running down the center of the trailer.Inside this flat area,he built boxes to hold ceiling fans and the electrical boxes.

Also,I will be sheathing the outside for vinyl siding and drywalling the entire interior.A good gut and rebuild.Everything is being done for energy effeciency and longivity.

[JD]

Hello and welcome to the forum,

First thing I must say is the work you have mentioned would not be code legal due to weight load requirements. Still, many people have done the work you are looking to do.

You want to check your wall studs. Homes of this nature may have less than 2x4 studs. Also, from looking at the images, it looks like you have a leveling problem. A tweaking frame will cause that diagonal ripple in the siding. So start your job by leveling the frame.

2x6 trusses are way overkill. It would be good to consider weight of everything that you put on this home. Buying 2x6's and rippng them down the middle would make adequate truss material. Maybe not legal, but the 2x6 wouldn't be either. As Ponch said, a bottom chord is crucial as well as some engineered webbing. Basically you are dividing up the open span and installing a "W", with the middle peak of the W being at the ridge cap.

Regardless which type of roofing you go with, I would strongly recommend edge pier support under the walls.

There is a lot that goes into a project like this and I would recommend doing as much research as possible before starting.

JMHO

[upstateman]

JD I understand what you're saying.The ripple is from a failed floor joist in that area along the outside wall,in an area where the frame doesn't have a support running to the outside wall.

[upstateman]

Ok.We decided to pull the interior ceiling.It needs to be replaced anyway.It's sagging bad and breaking apart.I will inspect and replace the bows from inside.I've done this before many years ago.Then I will do a conventional roof over.My question now is how do I finish the edges of the roof over?I plan to run gutters, because water running off the roof, is undermining the ground along the backside where the ground was cut back to put in the trailer.I plan to dig that out,put in a concrete block retaining wall,and run french drains to channel the water away from running under the trailer.The ground has partial collapsed and pushed the RR ties under the trailer.

Also,where can I find hidden fastener metal roofing?What search terms do I use to find it on the net?My local lumber yard doesn't carry it.They only have corrugate galvanized barn roofing.