mobilehomerepair.com

Hello,
I need to replace all the water pipes in a 82 Skyline rental. Has anyone had any experience using PEX tubing? Is there a specific type I should use?

Steve129

PEX is about the best for mobile homes. There are many threads on it here. For the most part PEX is PEX, the colors are more for Identification Blue - cold Red - Hot or just white. There are many ways you can configure your system. You can use a manifold system or run it like it is now.

Greg

I've never done plumbing in my life, and found it really easy to work with PEX and SharkBite push-fit fittings.

I'm glad it's easy to work with. I took Greg's advice read most of the PEX posts. I am taking the laundry area out completely and turning it into storage. I was thinking about moving the electric hot water tank into that area also. I am having to replace all the bathroom/laundry floors. Thanks for your input.

Steve129

PEX ...My new fascination! I'm in the North East and we've had an exceptionally bitter winter. I bought a Mobi to gut from one end to the other and build it my way. Seems they seen me coming .
After the second freeze of pipes the pvc main line shattered <ugh> so we ran Pex totally through the inside running from hot water tank until spring thaw. Then what was left outside froze & broke in the 1/2 copper line. Well a few more Sharkbites with the left over Pex and I am running again temporarily.
When I redirect my question is about "heat tape"? Park handyman says he puts heat tape on Pex all the time (is rated to 200 degrees I think) but I would like opinions on if the remaining 10-15 feet outside should be copper? I have supplies for either and currently it's copper out of the main-into Pex-into galvanized pipe. The hot water tank will be moved as well. I want most if not all "inside" the Mobi.

Outside, I would stay with PEX. It is very forgiving to freezeups. Heat tape should be no problem.

Greg

PEX is the way to go. Like Greg said, it is very forgiving to freezeups. It might freeze but PEX is known not to rupture like others. There's a few different ways to go about making connecting using the crimp, cinch and shark bite connections also. The shark bites are nice and easy but expensive, where as the others would use brass or plastic fittings which are a lot cheaper.

Manifolds offer a more balanced system per say if you were to flush a toilet in the bathroom it would not affect the shower like a system that ran a long main line and tee'd off. Manifolds are also used with what you call home runs being that from the manifold to the application would be one solid pipe so there would be no joints between that point.

For a replumb straight sections of pex are easier to use. You can get away from the pressure drop by running 3/4" to your farthest appliance that requires plumbing then tee off it along it's length with 1/2".

Question: How much of the PB mobile home plumbing is junk?
Answer: All of it.

As Dale suggested, when I install pex, I only use 1/2" to supply a single fixture, 3/4" for the run. I use the stainless steel clamp system, but the crimp rings are good too. Personally, I only use Sharkbite type push fittings for temporary connections but they are rated for behind wall use. They are great for ending a day in the middle of a job. I have not found much benefit to manifold systems for mobile homes as the plumbing is fairly centrally located and the limited places to put an accessible manifold, usually the utility room or water heater closet, which is real close to where I would put a main shut off to the house. I will put one shut off before the branch of cold water and line to the water heater, usually right under the water heater area. I will put a second 3/4" ball valve after the cold feed and before the water heater. Now I can shut off all water or just the hot, before the water heater.

I've decided to go with the 3/4" coiled Pex with cinch rings. I have a wire jenny I hope to use with the coil. The belly insulation is so far gone that pulling and fastening the PEX should not be a problem. I'll post some pics if I ever get it done. I'm still waiting for the installer and county building inspector to work things out.

Steve129

The coils aren't too bad, I buy red and blue 1/2" and 3/4" in 250 foot coils. If you can let them warm up in the sun for a little bit and then just unroll them. If I need a small piece I just unroll it. If I am running a longer line I use a step ladder and piece of conduit. Put the coil in between the ladder and then stick the pipe thru one side of the ladder and then the pex and then the other side of the ladder. Just have to brace the ladder with something to keep from tipping it over as you pull.

What is the deal with the building inspector?

jadedcusan: PEx should not be installed outside the home exposed to the elements. Sunlight is the culprit. I have heard of people running the PEx inside galv or ABS to protect it from the sun, but I would suspect that an inspector would not allow it due to manufacturers instructions. Copper or galv would be my suggestion.

Jd is correct, I had forgotten about the UV problem. But if you are under the home UV rays won't be a problem plus if it is wrapped with heat tape & insulation sunlight won't get to it.

Greg

ponch37300 wrote:
What is the deal with the building inspector?

The inspector pulled one of the anchor plates out with the toe of his boot. He also said some of the straps are too loose and one of the Xi2 lateral support is too far from the end of the trailer.

I have been unable to get the set up guy back out to look at it.

Steve129

I hope your repair guy comes back and makes it right but I would not have faith in him or his fixing of his shoddy work. He sounds like a two bit hack that makes if hard for real contractors that have put in the time and effort to be professional. Did you pull the permit or did he? If he had you pull the permit, he is probably not licensed and that would be illegal in California. Any mobile home repair guy with half a brain would not do shoddy work like that knowing it will be inspected. Any repair guy with integrity would not do shoddy work period, inspection or not. Sorry for the rant, but this is a very touchy subject with me. I am constantly repairing repairs from unlicensed and fly by night hacks. The customer's repair money, that they truly can't afford to spend, is thrown out the window.

My suggestion is to bite the bullet and have a reputable mobile home, licensed repairman finish the job. I would also turn the hack in to the license board if this is a service your state will pursue. They certainly will in my state when a consumer is damaged by illegal work.