window frame question

Sat Jul 07, 2007 11:18 am

Are you sure your tape measuring wasn't hitting something? Not sure I've ever seen a home with 2x2 exterior studs. I see in your profile that your home is a 1973. Those should be 2x4 studs.

That flat bar is available most anywhere.

Mark

JD · Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:41 pm

Hey Brad,

This is the trim bar I use. It is one of my often used tools. This and a good utility knife is on the job with me at all times. Stanley also makes a silver colored small cheapy that is also very popular.

JD

fargoman · Sat Jul 07, 2007 8:55 pm

Hi Mark

I'll try and explain how I measured. Standing inside facing the window. The left and bottom part of the frame is what's rotted and black. I used a flat headed screw driver and pryed the staples away. Forgot to mention I did shine a light in between the paneling. The bottom part measured 1- 1/2 in. thick. I shined my light in there and I didn't see anything that it could be hitting. Just by viewing it with the light on it didn't look to big.

I was thinking about the left side when you were speaking about how they should be 2x4's.

Could it be possible that what I measured wasn't a stud?
Could it have just been a 2x2 that was used to build the window frame?

Stuck my tape measure behind the paneling, and from were I measured to the end of the wood window frame it read 1- 1/2 in. I shined the light in there and quite honestly I couldn't see anything that my measuring tape could have hit. I saw what I was measuring and the yellow insulation back there.

whether what I measured was a stud or just something for the window frame would the whole thing have to go? I couldn't just cut the bad part out could I?

Hope you can make sense of this. Thanks for your opinion.

Brad

Greg · Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:46 am

Brad, It sounds to me like the best option you have is to open up the wall around the window opening, Take a panel on each side of the window off to get a good look at what is really rotted. It is not a fun job once, so do it once and do it the proper way. Jreg

Yanita · Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:13 pm

Hi,

Not wanting to blatantly disagree with anyone here but I have seen several homes that were built in that era that do have 2x2 or 2x3 exterior wall studs.

I would think that it would be uncommon for your area as you live where there are snow loads. Typically these homes are built for different areas. Do you have a sticker in an interior closet that shows the zone rating of your home?

~Yanita~

kashton · Sun Jul 08, 2007 12:17 pm

Only the walls we haven't reframed are 2x3. The rest we have done, and they are now 2x4.

fargoman · Sun Jul 08, 2007 11:50 pm

Thanks everyone

I think I'll just remove the paneling and see whats really back there before I buy any wood. It probably won't be for a while still waiting on the window to arrive.

Brad

fargoman · Fri Jul 13, 2007 7:14 pm

Hi everyone

I partially opened the paneling. The studs around the window frame are 1-1/2 in thick and 3-3/8 wide.

Could I substitute them with 2 x3's? If I did that would it change how the paneling or window fits ? What are your opinions?

The window has arrived and the panel isn't in the best shape so I may just put new paneling on.

Thank you

Brad

Greg · Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:34 pm

Brad, it sounds to me like it is 2x4 construction, remember that the 2x4 sizing is the "rough cut size (before the board was planed). Greg

JD · Fri Jul 13, 2007 10:48 pm

Hi Brad.

As Greg said, a 2x4 measures about 3-1/2". I wouldn't use a store bought 2x3. It may be different where you live, but the 2x3s they sell in the home stores here are white wood. Not a #2 or better, which is required for framing.

JD

fargoman · Sat Jul 14, 2007 1:28 pm

Thanks

So I'll use 2x4's then. Will they have too be planed or anything like that?

I think the paneling may be glued in some areas. How is the best way to remove it without much damage? I will replace the bad stuff but some of it's in really good shape.

Thanks

Brad

JD · Sat Jul 14, 2007 2:00 pm

Hey Brad,

The best thing to do is to plan on replacing it. Saves a lot of time and possibly eventual grief. You can try using that trim bar by pulling the paneling to give you enough room to reach in there behind it. But if you hear a crunch sound and see the tip of your trim bar, just give it up. It will be too difficult and take too much time to try to save. I have never tried it, but if it is luan or hardboard siding, you could try a heat gun but again, I wouldn't mess with it.

I would think you should be able to use the 2x4s as is. It there is a noticeable hump at the transition, you could plane the first 2x to about half the difference in stud size, to make the transition a little smoother. Kind of have to look at it to tell.

JD

fargoman · Sun Jul 15, 2007 2:23 am

Thanks for all the help. I'll start planning it now.

Brad

fargoman · Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:08 am

Hi everyone

Just have one more question and that should do it. Once I get the rotted wall stud out thats part of the window frame what would be the best way to nail/screw the new stud in?

Would wood joiners work?

If the metal siding is screwed into the wall stud would I have to do anything with the siding like re screw them in the new stud?

Thanks so much for your help

Brad

Harry · Sun Jul 22, 2007 5:35 am

Hi

Once you open the wall you'll have a better idea what repairs are necessary.

Like JD said plan on replacing the paneling. I would plan on replacing the whole wall stud. In so doing you will be able to inspect more of the inside of the wall...especially below the window at the floor where you might have more rot to repair.

Please snap some photos if you can.

Good Luck

Harry