Complete home remodel
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
MOLD! black mold!.. we all know mold is not good for you but like i said at the beginig i am a 3 time cancer survivor and the last time being lung cancer so this was REALLY BAD for me. i left immediately, So we had to decide what are next move was going to be as it is just me and my wife doing this and i just had half of my left lung removed less than 60 days ago. it appeared that it was over and we were done. this was going to be more than we could handle..the end
If that is the only mold you have found, I would go with a respirator and cut the panel out. I won't say that black mold is not bad, But it is not a death sentence either. If that is the only area you have already been exposed to a degree. With protection you should be fine for the short time it will take to remove the panel. remember to disturb the actual mole as little as possible so the spores stay put.
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
So after we talked about it we decided to move ahead in the master bedroom and see what we find. We got some respirators and began removing the VOG and what we found was not what we were hoping for. The mold ran the whole lenth of the closet about 3 foot high as well as the length of the wall between the bathroom and bedroom 3 ft high. Also about 8 foot long from the corner out under the window and about 3 ft high. we gutted the whole room down to the studs except for the ceiling. this house had a serious infestation problem at one time as well. We are not sure where we are gonig now as this is turning out to be more than i might be able to handle in my current state...
I honestly think that with a little protective gear like the respirator and possibly gloves & eye protection you will be fine.
Do a little research on mold removal, there may be a better way. I know you can use a cryroblaster (dry ice blaster) and remove it that way. the dry ice kills the mold on contact and it falls to the floor and is vacuumed up. That method could get expensive fast, but I am just saying that there ARE other ways around it.
Greg
https://www.cdc.gov/mold/cleanup.htm
Do a little research on mold removal, there may be a better way. I know you can use a cryroblaster (dry ice blaster) and remove it that way. the dry ice kills the mold on contact and it falls to the floor and is vacuumed up. That method could get expensive fast, but I am just saying that there ARE other ways around it.
Greg
https://www.cdc.gov/mold/cleanup.htm
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
So we talked about it and we are moving foward no matter what comes are way. LET THE FUN BEGIN!!! so on to the master bathroom. the skylight was leaking causing the ceiling to fall in above the bath. We removed the skylight tore the damaged board out which amounted to the last 16 foot of the roof from the peak down then reboarded it tar papered and shigled it. then we ripped the whole bathroom out down to studs(thats 2 rooms). When we ripped out the shower we found all the sheathing was gone and the lower studs were all rotted away (they are 2x6 studs)..
the floor under the tub was rotted so it needs replaced, it extends under the wall that divides the bedroom so the framing for that wall all needs to come out between the 2 rooms. the Sheathing is wet in the bedroom around the window so i am peeling the siding off of the last 18 feet of the home to replace the bathroom Sheathing and rotted studs. Also in the last 18 feet i will be able to fix the bedroom Sheathing and some window rot. this is the first time i have ever done any of this kind of work and i am flying by the seat of my pants. i do a LOT of research before i jump in to whatever i am doing toi make sure i think i cann handle it so stay tuned!! commets are always welcomed
If possible you may want to install a header above windows.
Lets say a 2x6 single or 2 2x4s glued together. Either combination should be installed on edge with king and jamb studs.
One item to think about!
Going from straight vinyl wall siding to exterior wood sheathing does add load to frame and floor. You may need to shim/support/block perimeter rim joist in areas where vinyl siding is replaced with wood sheathing. Blocking should be 4ft O.C max and each side of window and door openings. This would eliminate the possibility of floor and or rim joist sag off on sidewalls.
Which would result in door and windows buckling.
Lets say a 2x6 single or 2 2x4s glued together. Either combination should be installed on edge with king and jamb studs.
One item to think about!
Going from straight vinyl wall siding to exterior wood sheathing does add load to frame and floor. You may need to shim/support/block perimeter rim joist in areas where vinyl siding is replaced with wood sheathing. Blocking should be 4ft O.C max and each side of window and door openings. This would eliminate the possibility of floor and or rim joist sag off on sidewalls.
Which would result in door and windows buckling.
the sheathing under the sinding was originally a osb/particle board material as can be seen in the pictures where the new board meets the old material. it just disintegrated over time from the skylight leak and window leak. was replaced with lightweight board. had to repace the headers and footers as well as they were all rotted out from water from the leaks
so we gutted the master bedroom and master bath. we decided we would move on to the kitchen and keep moving foward til we stoped finding issues. found some mold on the vog under the 3 big windows in the kitchen and under the small window on the other side of the kitchen. so we gutted the kitchen finding more issues...
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