I have a shower stall and the drain rotted out of it and was leaking under the house.. It had this drain in it..
http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchan ... ode=125300
so i ordered a new drain for it, the identical one as the original like shown on the webpage i posted. Now, do i use plumbers putty on this or just a gasket? The old one was so rotted i cant tell..
also, on the P trap that connects to the drain, ok, my buddy crawled up under the house and said it was also leaking where the P trap is glued to the piece that screws to the drain itself..Im not sure what he means as i thought the P trap would screw directly to the drain? He says no, that there is a piece glued to the P trap that has threads so you can screw it to the drain. Anyone know what he means?
Shower drain help needed..
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
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Im not sure, he said its the part that glues to the trap that screws to the drain itself..I always thought p traps had a nut built onto it and didnt need gluing..?Greg wrote:I prefer a gasket myself.
It could be the half of the trap that glues to the 1 1/2" pipe is leaking or is the trap split?
Greg
also, should i use plumbers putty or a gasket?
The tail stock usually glues to the bottom of the drain and uses the slip nut to hold it into the trap. the other side of the trap assembly is usually glued to waste line.
You may have to crawl under and get a look for yourself.
Greg
You may have to crawl under and get a look for yourself.
Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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From what he says and from the little i could see, i believe its like this:Greg wrote:The tail stock usually glues to the bottom of the drain and uses the slip nut to hold it into the trap. the other side of the trap assembly is usually glued to waste line.
You may have to crawl under and get a look for yourself.
Greg
only difference is mine uses this drain instead of the pop-up:
Still wondering if i use a gasket or putty?
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till wondering if i use a gasket or putty?
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another question, when tightening the flange that goes underneath the shower (under the house), how tight do i go with it? Im talking about on the drain itself..
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I would use the gasket. With plastic or fiberglass stall the rubber gasket I think works better. If the leak you have is at where the pipe is glued to the drain pipe you might have to cut the drain pipe back a foot or so and then add back on a new piece of pipe with a coupler so it is long enough after you cut the old piece off.
Ron
Ron
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another question, when tightening the flange that goes underneath the shower (under the house), how tight do i go with it? Im talking about on the drain itself..
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hmmm, ok, wondering because the ad for that picture says, " Everything is included but the plumber's putty and all-purpose cement for gluing ABS or PVC pipe." I was not sure what they meant by all purpose cement...anyone know a specific brand i should look for? I want the best so there is no problems..
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well, all my shower drain parts came in but dont think its going to work..I ordered this drain as it looks almost identical to the original one..
http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchan ... s-products
The thing is, the shower pan has an indention where the drain sits. The original drain had a 4 1/4 inch flange and sat down flat on the shower bottom. The new drain has a 4 1/2 inch flange and sits a little on the indention in the shower bottom and i dont think that will seal too good. I wish i knew of a way to shave off a hair around the edge of the new drain..lol.. Oh boy.
Then the second problem. The new drain just comes with the black seal that goes on the underside of the shower pan and i guess im supposed to use putty for the top side. So i start reading the instructions on the can of putty and it says 'not for use on plastic'...great, this is a plastic shower, so now i have 2 problems..i need this thing fixed! HELP!!!!!!
http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchan ... s-products
The thing is, the shower pan has an indention where the drain sits. The original drain had a 4 1/4 inch flange and sat down flat on the shower bottom. The new drain has a 4 1/2 inch flange and sits a little on the indention in the shower bottom and i dont think that will seal too good. I wish i knew of a way to shave off a hair around the edge of the new drain..lol.. Oh boy.
Then the second problem. The new drain just comes with the black seal that goes on the underside of the shower pan and i guess im supposed to use putty for the top side. So i start reading the instructions on the can of putty and it says 'not for use on plastic'...great, this is a plastic shower, so now i have 2 problems..i need this thing fixed! HELP!!!!!!
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I can't really tell you what to do about the size difference but you should not really need anything on the top side between the drain flange and the shower base. the rubber gasket seals from the bottom so nothing can leak out. If you want to be a little safer you can use a little bit of clear silicon under the flange on the top section. The reason you don't want to use putty is that it is oil base and it will discolor the plastic. Same thing for stone sinks also. Never use putty or it will stain. The only other thing I can think of about the drain flange larger in size is that if you can't find one the same size maybe you could use a grinder to shave 1/8" off the flange all the way around it. I hope this helps some.
Also about the glue. They say "All Purpose" because they don't know what type of piping that you have. If it is all black abs then you can use abs glue but if it is connecting to white pvc then you need the all purpose glue because that can be used to connect abs to pvc. Both the abs or the pvc glues will not work with the other type pipe.
Ron
Also about the glue. They say "All Purpose" because they don't know what type of piping that you have. If it is all black abs then you can use abs glue but if it is connecting to white pvc then you need the all purpose glue because that can be used to connect abs to pvc. Both the abs or the pvc glues will not work with the other type pipe.
Ron
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