Is the Rustique vinyl skirting kit anygood?

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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

Billy

Wow JD thats what I needed to understand thank you.


Now a few more thing about these stakes...
JD wrote:
On the stakes, you'd be better off ripping fence boards on a table saw and then cutting the stakes yourself. You don't want to rip pressure treated wood or you will be exposing one side of your stake to termites and rot. Maybe if you ask the guys at the home store if they have the redwood 1x3 stakes somewhere else in the store. Lowe's and HD carry them in my area. If you do end up using the 2x2x3 stakes, use them whole and 3" screws to attach them to the mud seal.


JD
Maybe I didn't say this the right way.

I bought stakes that are pressure treated.

The dimensions are

2in x 2in by three foot long one end has been pre cut to a point.

If I did cut them it would only be in half to make them about a foot and half tall.

The only exposed surface would be the top of the stake.

Base on your post I should use 1x3's and not 2x2's no big deal I can take them back.

My problem is I can't find the redwood stakes anywhere.

HD, Lowes & lumber yards....

JD what exactly are these stakes used for? Maybe that will narrow down my search some.

Maybe 1x3 pressure treated would work? There has got to be something to use here on the east coast...

Again thank you for your time...
Billy

I found these at a local concrete supply store.

http://metalforms.com/steelstakes.html

They are call nail stakes like JD had suggested earlier.

24 inches long and very expensive. $2.64 each for the round and $3.88 each for the flat ones.

They look like they will work but are very expensive almost $232.80 for the flat ones & 158.40 for the round

I figure I need 60 stakes.

Still searching...
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JD
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Well, I certainly wouldn't go with those stakes! Too much money. In the home stores, I find my redwood stakes right below the formed redwood handrail.

The 2x2 stakes will work. The only problem with making 2 stakes out of them is where you cut a point into the second stake. The middle of the stake point will not have much if any protection from subterranean termites, as well as both straight cut ends. Maybe soaking the cut ends into some cresote or some alternative. Or again, you could make stakes out of redwood fence boards pretty cheap. About 6 stakes per board or so.

Have you talked to one of the better home store employees about short, cheap stakes? Maybe try some place that specializes in concrete? After a while you will just have to go for what you know and have. I don't mind replacing some stakes after years of use, I just would not want to invite termites.

JD
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Billy

Jd Thank you for all your time. With out your help I would have never been able to pull this off.

I understand clearly thanks to you how to go about this. I cant say how much your help has done for me.

If there is anything I can do for you let me know.

I sell used car parts & I build websites so i your in need of anything let me know.

I will share my expertise because you surely have!

Regards
Billy
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JD
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You're welcome Billy. And Thank you for the help offer. I will be emailing you a couple of script questions, if it's alright.

If you have any other questions once you get started, just let us know.

JD
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Billy

Sure anytime... I have the correct email listed here in my profile. If you can't see it ask Mark or one of the mods...
geraldk
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Location: edmonton alta

just one small note, up here in canada we can buy the green pressure treatment liquid in a can when we make cuts in pressure treated wood. goes on like paint,, if not i think linseed oil would work also
im not a dr. but ill take a look
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JD
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Gerald's suggestion is great. Also while at Lowe's today, I tracked down the actual stake product I use. They are called grade stakes. There were some yellow pine stakes there, which was the biggest pile of stakes, but I use the redwood ones that are in a different stack. The price tag thing says

1x2x12 RGH GRN RWD Stakes $5.47 per bundle of 25

These stakes are a solid red redwood, meaning no white wood in the grain.

JD
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Billy

Okay guys thanks for the info. Lowes will be my first stop this morning.

Keeping my fingers crossed...
Billy

Well still could not come up with the redwood stakes. In fact no redwood of anykind to be found in any stores.

So like JD said we will have to go another route.

Here are the two different ways I can go about this.

1) Stick with the pressure treated 2x2's and cut them in half.

2) Buy 1x2 pine grade stakes and use thoses.

We did buy a gallon of...

Jasco
GL Copper Brown Wood Preservative.

http://www.mclendons.com/item.asp?sku=1 ... s&subcat2=

This is another description below but the can looks different.

http://www.houseandpaint.com/below-grou ... 19404.html

Looks like we will be useing one or the other and treating them with this Copper Brown.

My question is which wood to use?

Thanks for all your time!

Regards
Billy
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JD
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The difference that I can see between those two products is the first link is for TERMIN-8 WOOD H2O and the other is plain TERMIN-8 WOOD. There may be a color difference, which is unimportant. The first product is used for docks as well as fence posts and the like. Both use Copper Napthenate as the preservative, which should be the same as your pressure treated 2x2s. I would think either would be OK to use.

On the stakes, the 1x2 would be easier to drive in and screw through but the 2x2 may last longer. If your dirt is fairly soft, just use the 2x2 and 3" screws.

JD
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Billy

Thank you JD for all the info.

Okay I think this will be the last question. (I hope)

On the directions for the skirting panels. It says...

I must use Snap Lock Pliers and crimp three times per side?

I bought these pliers and have no idea how or where to do this...
lol

http://malco.malcoproducts.com/products ... yl/sl5.asp

Or this one...

http://www.dynamitetoolco.com/MalcoSL2_p/mal-sl2.htm

I will half to confirm which one when I get home.

It looks like it pinches the vinyl together in some way but I cannot figure this out...

Any ideas?
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JD
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Hi Billy,

I have the red handle pair. I only use the for vinyl siding that goes into finish trim. You can use them on the top and/or bottom of the skirting panels if you like. I don't and never have had a problem with skirting coming out. Maybe in high wind areas they would be needed, I don't know. What they do is cut out a tab that sticks out from the skirting or vinyl siding. This tab will catch that little bend on the edge of the ground channel and the front piece of the top trim. I find them totally unnecessary on vinyl skirting in my area. You want to be sure that the tab that sticks out faces to the front side of the skirting.

They are necessary when fitting cut sections of vinyl siding under window and the top course at the eaves and under the gables. Finish trim is very thin in profile instead of thick like J trim. These tabs is what keeps those cut siding pieces from falling out. Otherwise, you are relying on the bottom clip only, or god forbid, a face nail/screw.

Speaking of face nail, there is also a green handle clipping tool for vinyl siding. This thing cuts a full rectangle out of the siding to make a nailing hole like the ones on the top edge of vinyl siding.

Both of these tools require precise measurements in your cut to align the tabs or holes. When using the tab tool, you still want a little breathing room between the tab and that edge of the trim to allow for expansion. You don't want them to snap the siding piece in tight.

JD
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Billy

Jd thank you it looks wonderful!!!

Long weekend and its installed. The whole deal freaked me out. But looking back at it now it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Me and my girlfriend are still trying to figure out which was more work. Installing all new 3/4 plywood floor or the whole skirting thing.

I think its a toss up... lol

Again thanks JD you rock...
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JD
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Well thank you Billy. I am glad the skirting went well for you. And just like with the floor repairs, it just gives you a good feeling to know that you did it yourself. After crawling all over putting in your skirting, you probably know more about your home, how it is constructed underneath, the condition of the vapor barrier, condition of the siding and paint etc..

So what's you next project?

JD
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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