Cutting out rotten floor close to the wall

[nestsman]

I have some water damage on the floor that will need to be cut out and replaced. Is there a specific tool you experts recommend that will allow me to cut as close to the wall as possible? Maybe a certain router bit made for a Dremel?

Thanks!

rotten-wood.JPG

[ponch37300]

There are a variety of saws to get close to the edge. One of my favorite tools for odd jobs like this is a oscillating tool like this, http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-MM20-03-12 ... +multi-max. Harbor freight even makes one.

[HouseMedic]

Like ponch37300 said, an Oscillating tool works great for this type of stuff. If not you can get pretty close with a saws-all and a long blade.

This one would get the job done. It's not the best but if you only use it once in a while it will work for you. You would also need to get a wood plunge blade.
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillatin ... -8493.html

You can even use this coupon.
http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/ ... f17547.jpg

[nestsman]

I already own a standard Dremel tool. Is there a good adapter/bit that I can use for this project? Or are you suggesting I look into this new Dremel tool?

Thank you.

[HouseMedic]

I don't think the Dremel tool that you have will do it. Is it the regular rotary type Dremel? The oscillating tool works different then the rotary. If you can, I would also put some 2 x 6 bracing in there before I put in the new plywood.

[Greg]

A sawsall or jigsaw with a long blade works well. dremel used to make a small circular saw blade attachment, but I suspect they stopped making it due to liability issues.

Greg

[ponch37300]

This is one thing that you really want a tool that is going to make your life easier. A dremel really doesn't have a good blade or bit option for this. Dremels are nice for certain things, I have 3 of them and use them for sanding and polishing and some smaller cutting. But they just aren't good for a cut like this. If you have a harbor freight near you then you can pick up a tool that will make your life a lot easier for under 20 bucks. My second option would be a sawzall, works good but make sure you don't cut to deep.

[JD]

As others have said, a rotary Dremmel would not be a good choice. I don't think they have a blade that will cut 5/8" and if they did, you would burn through a few of them as well as the Dremmel itself probably. The multi-tool type cutting tool could do small detail work, but again, a whole room floor is too much for this tool. I have that new HD 2x Porter Cable multi-tool. Probably 4 times more powerful than a Dremmel and it comes with a blade that is twice as big, but n entire room would be too much for this tool also. The tool probably would not quit, but I would. It would also take a couple of expensive blades.

For years I used a full sized Sawzall. Certainly does the job, but you do have to be careful about cutting pipe and wire. You learn how to back off at the joist so you don't cut them deep. The full sized saw always felt too big and uncomfortable for the job. Very awkward and unsafe feeling. Probably did not help when I removed the support boot to be able to get in right next to a wall.

Then I found my favorite tool of all time. It is a one hand operation, mini sawzall made by Rigid (Home Depot). Unbelievably practical! The much smaller size brings a whole new level of accuracy. The best part is the travel or "throw" of the blade is 1/2" compared to 1 1/4" on a standard sawzall. This allows very accurate depth control. Held at a proper cutting angle, a short blade just barely get's through the bottom of the particle board floor. Also, the short throw allows you to plunge cut on anything anywhere, easily.

This thing is perfect for doing drain or other plastic pipe cutting. It would easily cut copper and galv steel as well, but there are much better simpler copper pipe cutters and I don't thread pipe in place ever, so cutting in place in not needed. ABS and PVC, excellent! I have also eliminated my jig saw with this thing. With the right blade, it will do anything the jig saw can and again, the size and shape allows me to see my work better.

I did kill one of these mini sawzalls. I used one of those scrapper blades you see for sawzalls in my first tool and it quit working. 2nd saw has been on the job a couple of years with at least a mile (definite exaggeration) of cutting. Works great and I expect it to continue for years.

I saw that Ryobi has a one hand cordless unit that works with it's Plus 1 battery products. I may get one of those too and see if they are as usable. No cord would be a plus.

[HouseMedic]

Not to change the subject but, JD, if you want to get more blade for your money for your Porter Cable these guys are pretty good. If you get 10 at a time they are only $4.50 each. Plus if you use this code FRIDGE5 you can get another 5% off. http://multifitblades.com/1-1-4-pc-japa ... blade.html or on eBay from the same company but with shipping it is cheaper direct. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORTER-CABLE-10 ... 1137840438

I use these all the time. I do a lot of undercutting for tile and laminate work.

Ron

[JD]

Many thanks for that link, Ron. Just put in an order for 10 blades. Great price!

From Ron's link I was able to get Japanese tooth blades instead of the fine tooth blades they sell in stores here. Got to be a lot more aggressive cutting stuff up. Also, they should be excellent for how I use this tool to remove old glue from floor joists. You can try to trim or cut the glue off, but gouging the joist is pretty easy. I have learned to point the tool in a downward angle, using the teeth of the blade almost like a rake, scraping over the top of the glue. Really gets the glue off clean and nice, no gouging.

[HouseMedic]

JD, The Japanese tooth are the only ones that I use. They seem to last longer also. For the glue did you ever try the scraper blade?

Ron

[ponch37300]

Thanks for that link housemedic. That's a really good price, especially if they last longer then other blades. I have a scraper blade also, think it's a bosch but never tried it yet. Not sure it would work on flooring adhesive just because it's hard and really bonds to the joists.