Ok I've been installing new floors throughout my house....the bedrooms all have new carpet.
I am going to tile the kitchen (porcelain or ceramic wood tile) soon which ends on the seam of the manufacture home splits. However, my question is my w/d room is next to the kitchen and outside deck door I decided to put a high quality vinyl tile in that room for the higher exposure to water.
It currently has laminate flooring that needs replaced in it. I was wondering if they is something I can lay over the plywood subfloor to keep the height even with the kitchen floor once I install the tile in the kitchen.
(Yes I know how some feel about tiling a manufactured home, it has been done and I am going to get it done. Small rooms and not on seams of the house).
Question about flooring
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
You can raise the level of a subfloor with plywood underlayment. This plywood is made to not delaminate and has no voids in the middle plys. You could also use the cementuous underlayment products like HardieBacker. Both come as thin as 1/4" with thicker panels available as well.
If you are determined to install ceramic or porcelain tile, you might want to consider removing the 5/8" particle board floor and replace with 1 1/8" tongue and groove plywood. I am not sure if the finished height is what you are looking for, but the 1 1/8" plywood plus underlayment is the minimum suggested substrate for the tile.
If you are determined to install ceramic or porcelain tile, you might want to consider removing the 5/8" particle board floor and replace with 1 1/8" tongue and groove plywood. I am not sure if the finished height is what you are looking for, but the 1 1/8" plywood plus underlayment is the minimum suggested substrate for the tile.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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I will second everything JD has said. Plywood to raise the height to the tile.
I know you said you are going to "get it done" but the problem isn't "getting it done". The problem is when the tiles start cracking after it's in. In order for a succesful tiling project it is 75% what's under it and 25% the tile. You need a very sturdy subfloor and then a uncoupling membrain installed right. Which means your tiled floor is now going to be about an inch taller before you even put the tile in. So 11/4" or so higher then surrounding floors. If you do this right the floor will last, if you just slap some tiles on top of the subfloor you have now the tiles will not last. I appreciate your get it done attitude but please make sure you do it right. Lots of info out there on tiling.
I know you said you are going to "get it done" but the problem isn't "getting it done". The problem is when the tiles start cracking after it's in. In order for a succesful tiling project it is 75% what's under it and 25% the tile. You need a very sturdy subfloor and then a uncoupling membrain installed right. Which means your tiled floor is now going to be about an inch taller before you even put the tile in. So 11/4" or so higher then surrounding floors. If you do this right the floor will last, if you just slap some tiles on top of the subfloor you have now the tiles will not last. I appreciate your get it done attitude but please make sure you do it right. Lots of info out there on tiling.
to address the subfloor question. I don't have particle board as a subfloor.
by getting it done....I will go slow and steady or.....get a professional to do it lol.....more than likely....and of course a backer board and several screws. I've done my research.
if something cracks....then fix it....I'd rather take a swing at something nice....than to be "try" to be content with what's safe and the "usual".
thanks for the recommendations.
by getting it done....I will go slow and steady or.....get a professional to do it lol.....more than likely....and of course a backer board and several screws. I've done my research.
if something cracks....then fix it....I'd rather take a swing at something nice....than to be "try" to be content with what's safe and the "usual".
thanks for the recommendations.
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