Skirting

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

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LisaBoyer
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:36 am

Waiting for paint fumes to die down in the bathroom, so I have migrated outside. I did some reading here regarding skirting...and all say to have a track at the bottom, that is fastened to the "pad". I have no pad, and no bottom track. The first month we were here I laid large rocks around the perimeter of skirting, then put in a planter bed and filled it with more rocks, because I was afraid of critters getting in. Now, we are ready to replace the warped skirting with new, however our local hardware store doesn't sell skirting, nor does the closest big box store. Where is the best place to acquire this? AND...what do I fasten the bottom rail to, dirt?

Sorry if these questions seem silly, first time MH owner and it's all Greek to me!
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Greg
Moderator
Posts: 5696
Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 8:01 pm
Location: Weedsport, NY

Do yourself a favor and see "A better skirting idea" in the Articles section of the site. It's the only way to go!!!

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
Norm Frechette
Posts: 193
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2011 7:34 am
Location: Norwich, CT

Any mobile home dealers in your area?
LisaBoyer
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:36 am

Greg, thanks for pointing me to the articles, I never noticed them before! I am armed with a bit more knowledge for the installation.

Norm, I am calling a few tomorrow, hoping they can tell me where to buy the skirting. We have quite a few mobile home neighborhoods in this area, surely someone sells the stuff!

Thanks, as usual, this forum has opened a few windows for me :)
UmpJJ
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:39 am
Location: Brazil, IN

We installed Rapid Wall insulated skirting about a year and a half ago - and it's GREAT! Pricey, but no blowouts and the weed whacker doesn't faze it. Got it from a MH supply place (General Supply) in Indianapolis. Their website has a photo gallery for the stuff. I'll never use anything else again!

UmpJJ
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Greg S
Posts: 541
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:13 am
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada

You could buy vertical vinyl house siding or metal roofing material from almost any big box store. My personal preference is metal roofing material.
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
LisaBoyer
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:36 am

Hi Greg S,

I didn't want the metal roofing material, and our local HD (can I say Home Depot here?) doesn't carry the vinyl skirting. We live 45 min from anywhere, so are limited in our choices of stores. I did find a website that ships what I want, if I can't get it from the local mobile home dealers, I have a fall back plan. Otherwise, I would be taking a long trip to the next state over. :)
Steve-WA
Posts: 180
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:04 am
Location: Western Washington, Puget Sound

mobilehomepartsstore.com
1987Commodore
Posts: 383
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:53 pm
Location: Steuben County, NY

Many mobile home dealers sell skirting. Also, there's a good chance that some park owners do also. Ours even has a store, and a maintenance crew.
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JD
Site Admin
Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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In your original post you asked how to fasten it down. The vinyl skirting trim kits come with 9" aluminum spikes and screws for the install. The spikes are for attaching the bottom rail direct to dirt through pre-drilled holes. This is a very weak way of doing the bottom track but the instructions say that is how they do it. Having a pad to screw to would be great but most homes I see do not have a pad or concrete around the entire home. Usually just the driveway and maybe the entry to the front door. When the skirting does end on top of concrete, I drill a 3/16" hole and use those blue concrete screws. Same deal as all skirting screws. Don't fasten down tight. Leave the screws loose enough so that the vinyl can still wiggle. Over dirt, I use pressure treated 2x4s. For those opposed to pt wood on dirt, paver blocks would also work. To fasten down the 2x4s I use 12" galvanized spikes, sold in the nail and screw aisle. I will put 3-4 per 8' board. First I drill out about 1/2" with a 1 1/4" spade bit. This is to countersink the head of the galv spike. Then I drill a hole big enough for the spike, using the center hole from the spade bit as a guide. I keep the spikes on the back side (inside side) of the 2x4 to hide the spikes. If you are using pavers, you can just drill a hole for the spike. The pavers are wide enough to hide the spikes behind the skirting.

To know where the 2x4 goes, I put an aluminum level up against the house, set it plumb, and line the front (outside side) of the 2x4 with the front side of the level. This leaves room for the bottom track and a nice little 3/8" reveal edge of the 2x4. Looks nice.

Wood & galv spikes may not last as long if you live on the coast or someplace that eats materials. Here in Fresno, CA, they last about 20 years if not submerged in dirt.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
UmpJJ
Posts: 110
Joined: Sat Oct 08, 2011 11:39 am
Location: Brazil, IN

I used pressure treated 4 X 4's on the dirt to attach my skirting track to. I drilled 1/2" holes 6" from the each end and used 24" lengths of 1/2" rebar to secure them to the ground. Sledgehammers aren't just for demolition! Then put sod right up to the 4 X 4's on the outside to hold them in place and hide the lumber as well as putting crushed rock around the inside perimeter.

UmpJJ
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