No hot water this morning

Repair help for the do-it-yourselfer.
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CountryLiving34
Posts: 44
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:12 am

I think my hot water heater has gone on the blink. There is a switch in one of the bedroom closets that says this switch operates the hot water heater but I don't really see an access panel. The hot water heater should be located in this closet, am I correct. I mean it should not be in some remote location far away from the switch. More details.
1. Mobile home is a double wide.
2. Make = Horton
3. Purchased brand new
4. Age now = 15 years old (purchased in 1996)
Questions?
1. How likely is it that my hot water heater needs replacing?
2. I am no handyman. If I hire someone to do the job, what should I expect to pay?
3. How much should a new heater cost me?
4. Will I have to cut a hole in the drywall to access? There should be an easy way to access. If not,
that is really poor design IMO.
5. Is it possible I have a bad switch. This is unlikely IMO since the switch is always left in the on
position. I would appreciate any replies. I am glad to have found a site like this. Thanks to
whoever created it.
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JD
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It may be best to find a reputable mobile home contractor or hvac company to troubleshoot this problem. The problem could be very simple and inexpensive to fix, but you would need to know how. For us to help you more, we would need to know if the water heater is electric or gas and if it is an atmospheric or direct vent unit.

Depending on the type of unit, it could be as simple as a breaker, a thermocouple, ignitor or switch, all of which are fairly inexpensive parts, but you would need to know how to troubleshoot the problem safely and replace the part. Maybe someone else will have suggestions on what you could safely check, but from the sounds of your post, I would seek out a pro.

As to where your water heater is located, below is a link to Horton Homes floor plans. These will be for newer units, but you will probably find a similar floor plan as yours. If you really started looking for it, you would find an approx 30"x30" area that is unaccounted for.

http://www.hortonhomes.com/hud-floorplans.html
☯JD♫
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All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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CountryLiving34
Posts: 44
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:12 am

Thanks a lot JD for your reply. Much appreciated friend. I know the unit is an electric water heater. I am not sure what you mean by atmospheric or direct vent unit. If you could explain the difference or how to tell, then perhaps I could tell you. I am going now to look at the link you gave me. Thanks so much for your help. I wish I was more DIY like you guys but unfortunately I am not that technical. I will attempt minor repairs but have never really tried much more than that. :)
jpingram5
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Location: Orefield, PA
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Being the original water heater if is and given its going on 15 years I would say its probably on its way. I would say replace the tank before a leak happens. Most tank water heaters are rated for 5 - 10 years life expectancy. Replacing a electric water heater is fairly simple even for the non-experienced. I think lowes has a DIY video or look on you tube. But if your not comfortable I'm sure you can find a handy man to do it for a fair price.
2009 Skyline Sunwood Premier 14 x 80
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Greg
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The venting comes into play if it is a gas unit, Electric units require no vents.

15 years for an electric is actually pretty good. I would plan on doing a replacement, at that age you may replace parts only to have the tank start leaking. Depending on who does the work you may be able to install a standard Elec. water heater rather than a mobile home heater. The difference is the location of the connections and the physical size, So if room allows and you can make the plumbing connections you can save some money.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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CountryLiving34
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:12 am

jpingram5 and Greg >>>>>Thank you both for your replies. My brother and some guy he works with came by the house last weekend and fixed it. Here is what my mother said. I was not home when they came by.
1. They had to drain the tank.
2. She said there was something at the bottom that heats the water.
3. I think they had to take this out and replace it.
Questions?
Did they replace the electric heating element? Is this what it is called? Since the hot water heater is 15 years old, how concerned should I be right now that this thing might spring a leak next? They left the access door panel off and the tank looks like it is not rusty or anything. It is a 40 gallon tank. Do I need to replace with a 40 gallon tank should I decide to replace in the future or could I put in a smaller tank? Only two people live here and we really don't use that much hot water. All clothes are washed in cold water only. Thanks again for all the replies. They were most helpful.
jpingram5
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It does sound like they changed out the Lower Heating Element. Usually with 40+ Gallon there are 2 elements, Upper & Lower. Lower is the most common one to go.

In my opinion 15 years is quite good, certainly got your monies worth. The only thing to remember is that if your water is hard you probably have quite a lot of scale build up in there. I'm sure draining it removed some of it, but not all. If you start noticing high electric bills, it might be related to the water heater. I've seen 30+ year old tanks already in some customers houses. I would still use it since there's only 2 of you and it sounds to be in good condition. But if you can, there should be a energy efficiency sticker on it or find out the kWh usage and compare to newer electric water heaters. It might be worth it to change it out to a newer more efficient one.
2009 Skyline Sunwood Premier 14 x 80
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CountryLiving34
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:12 am

Followup and questions:
jpingram5>>>Thanks for responding. Sorry I have not been able to check back sooner. You guys are terrific and I am glad I found this msg board.
It does sound like they changed out the Lower Heating Element. Usually with 40+ Gallon there are 2 elements, Upper & Lower. Lower is the most common one to go.
Why would the tank need two? Is one for cut-on and the other for cut-off?
In my opinion 15 years is quite good, certainly got your monies worth.
I totally agree. :)
The only thing to remember is that if your water is hard you probably have quite a lot of scale build up in there. I'm sure draining it removed some of it, but not all. If you start noticing high electric bills, it might be related to the water heater. I've seen 30+ year old tanks already in some customers houses. I would still use it since there's only 2 of you and it sounds to be in good condition. But if you can, there should be a energy efficiency sticker on it or find out the kWh usage and compare to newer electric water heaters. It might be worth it to change it out to a newer more efficient one.
Thanks for the info. and heads-up. I will definitely consider what you said. Thanks again....
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Greg
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Most electric water heaters use 2 elements, it helps cut the heat up time and actually uses less electricity in the long run.

Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Ambit Energy
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Location: St. Louis, Missouri
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Let's take a quick look at the components that work together in your water heater to make your morning shower so satisfying:
1. Tank - The inner shell of a water heater is a heavy metal tank containing a water protective liner that holds 40 to 60 gallons, within the pressure range of a typical residential water system. The exterior of the tank is covered in an insulating material like polyurethane foam.
2. Dip tube - Water enters the water heater through the dip tube at the top of the tank and travels to the tank bottom where it's then heated.
3. Shut-off valve -The shut-off valve stops water flow into the water heater. It's a separate component from the heater located outside and above the unit.
4. Heat-out pipe -Suspended toward the top of the tank's interior, the heat-out pipe allows the hot water to exit the water heater.
5. Thermostat - This is a thermometer- and temperature-control device. Some electric water heaters have a separate thermostat for each element.
6. Heating mechanism - Electric water heaters have heating elements inside the tank to heat the water. Gas water heaters use a burner and chimney system instead.
7.Drain valve - Located near the bottom of the exterior housing, the drain valve makes it easy to empty the tank to replace the elements, remove sediment or move the tank to another location.
8. Pressure relief valve - This safety device keeps the pressure inside the water heater within safe limits.
and lastly, 9. Sacrificial anode rod - Made of magnesium or aluminum with a steel core, the sacrificial anode rod is suspended in the water heater tank to help retard corrosion.



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John Galt
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Greg S
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 10:13 am
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada

It's been three months since your original post Country, have you not replaced that tank yet ?
An individual must enforce his own meaning in life and rise above the perceived conformity of the masses. (Anton LaVey)
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