abs tub surround

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mrbb
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 5:59 pm

Ok I need help
I installed a new tub in a mobile home I have
I ordered a new (never had one before)
abs plastic 3 piece tub surround
I installed one in a home before, but its nothing like this one
the one i installed was about a 1/4 inch thick, plastic,and easy to handle

this one is of a ,
look a like tile, and the back of it has resesses for all the tiles(look a like tiles), and its very flimsy, and this
it bends and flex's like crazy
it even has bends on the end andn at the places were the pannels meet to over lap of sorts
and it doesn't even fit flush with the walls due to the resessed tiles( think they were called hammer tile looks)

How the heck do you install one of these??
it does also have some rivits to help i guess, but how do you get a good stick to the walls when it doesn't sit flush with them, just trying a dry fit, it springs off the wall, and wants to almost roll up to the bottom into the tub!
It cost over 200 bucks so wasn't the cheapest out there, the few I had a chance to see wherw all about the same, too!

also, my tub doesn';t fit flush with the walls either, in spots there is about 1/8 to about 3/16 of an inch, tub lip as to the wall, but very snug at the bottom of the tub, and my wall measure the same top and bottom of the tub, that doesn't help these gaps too!

the tub is fiberglass, and do not want to try to pull, to the wall
do I need to fill these gaps first and with what
and also, my walls are not sheetrock, they are a sort of panneling, so there very thin as well, not much help to rivit to or screw to, less than 1/4 inch and soft pressed wood, so screws and like pull out with relitive ease
I really appreciate any help advice I can get here
also, what adhesive to use too!
have a case of loctite tub surround adhesive, white, will this work, or do I need something special!
again, thanks
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JD
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
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I have found that the surround area must be straight, plumb and level to get the thin ABS surrounds to set right. But you can still install the product. It will probably have some loose area and the whole thing is kind of flimsy, really. You can use shim strips to adjust the walls, but you can only do so much there. Maybe 1/4", preferably less. Put adhesive on thick at every groove of the tile, and every surface so that it will contact the wall. The tighter to the wall, the better the install. But then there are the joints. They have to lay flat naturally and fit. All of this is a juggling act until you get all set just right.

I prefer the fiberglass or rigid ABS units. These are fastened at the flanges only and much more forgiving. Another option is a surround that uses flat panels on the walls and have the molded corner pieces with the soap dish stuff. Also much more forgiving.

So yeah, you could install the unit you have and it might turn out alright, but you would have a better shot at a good install with a different kind of unit. Just my opinion.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
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squirt13
Posts: 53
Joined: Tue May 08, 2007 11:44 pm
Location: Utah

I just replaced my tub with a full size shower and looked at all materials. I finally went with Swanstone. It is a solid service material and you can see it in all McDonalds restaurants, their countertops are made of it. So are Walmarts bathroom sinks. It is about 1/3 more than finberglass kits but it will last at least as long if not longer than my house will, which is only 15 yrs old. The other advantage is if you get a scratch in it, it can be buffed out. My shower walls are beadboard ant the full kit delivered was under $1900 were fiberglass kits were priced at $1400 for top of the line. Check them out at http://www.theswancorp.com/
mrbb
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 5:59 pm

Thanks guys,
But I cannot get a different type of surround
due to Money
I bought this one, had it shipped to me
paid like 200 for it
and if I want to return it I have to pay shipping costs
and it will now cost me 217 bucks to return it
more than I even paid for it,
so I am sort of stuck

I also needed a plastic one doe to I have a window on the back wall I need to be able to cut out on the back surround wall to fit!

I did look at several different types before I bought, and what I had to pick from, were all like this
the better made(thicker ones ,just don't come in the size I need)
I called a ton of companys trying to get a better one
but had zero luck, unless I wanted to pay like 2 grand or more for one, and that was out of the budget !

I took this one hoping it would be Ok, then I got it, and now I cannot return it without taking a beating!

I understand about needing extra thick use of adhesive, but from my experience with it , if you go thick, it just doesn't cure very well, or takes forever to cure!
(what adhesive do you recommend to use here, I have a case of "Loctite tub and bath adhesive "right now)
and how am I suposed to be able to hold this thing flush to get a good seal/take, with so many parts so wobbley

This project is so much more of a pain than needs to be
but I am where I am at
I would still appreciate any other advice I copuld get!

not doing the install for a few days/maybe a or so week now, as father just got rushed to the ER last nite, and might be loosing his other leg now.
so this is on the back burner for now,
But will ahve to be done!

please feel free to add any tips, advice, I need it!
thanks
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JD
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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The wall you are gluing the panels to must be very clean. Sometimes I will use a belt sander to get through the shiny surface of the existing wall. Wipe the back of the new surround with denatured alcohol. Don't use any type of paint thinner. I like to give the adhesive 4-5 of minutes of breathing time before setting it. So I need to get the adhesive on quickly so the drying time is more even. I have a couple of sets of the blue Ryobi One products. The caulk gun is great! You have to have it adjusted it down because the caulk/adhesive just comes out too fast on high. The seams where the sections come together must lay as flat as possible naturally. With tape or some type of brace, you could pin down maybe 1/8" but any more and it will probably pop loose in time.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
mrbb
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 5:59 pm

again, thanks
But what brand of adhesive should I use/

and also my sections where the back wall meet and the side, well my sides have a curved edge, that the back just sits against at where ever
there are no real flush fit on the two meeting
I am not at the place, but when I get back there I will take a few pictures of this, and post, and see if anyone can advice me on how to do this corner as it is!
thanks again
and keep suggestions
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JD
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Posts: 2696
Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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I usually use Loctite Power Grab Surrounds but have no qualms about using the PL version or Liquid Nails for Surrounds. For regular construction adhesive, it is PL polyurethane all the way.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
mrbb
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 5:59 pm

Ok thanks, I have the Loctite surround one
any idea on how many tubes I will need, knowing I need to go heavy on it
don't wnat to run out mid way
thanks again
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JD
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 11:57 pm
Location: Fresno, CA
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I will usually use 6-7 tubes on a surround like that. It is best to buy extra and take the rest back when you are done. You actually use less on a flat panel like tileboard. But if you caulk/glue each tile groove, you will use more.
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!

All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
mrbb
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 5:59 pm

thanks again, I have 8 now, but will buy a couple more to be safe, better to have too many than not enough
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