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Questions about repairs and parts for Coleman furnaces, air conditioners and heat pumps for manufactured homes. Click here for Coleman parts.

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homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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The air from my Intertherm MGH gas furnuce is not blowing out enough hot air, just slighty warm.
I have posts here about where I replaced the blower motor with a differant h/p.
It takes a 1/3 hp & I replaced it with a larger h/p than it calls for.
Works fine during the summer months with a/c on.
I was told by Mark or Greg that it will blow too much air across the heating chamber not allowing it to heat up properly.
My Stepson who is a commercial havac repairmen told me the same thing & said if I had any problems with it heating properly he could slow the motor down by rewiring it.
Is that a true fact or not?
I know it's best to invest in another motor with a 1/3 hp that matches my furnuce.
Already spent more money on it than it's worth.
Cleaned the filter the the day & did not help.
Thank's for your expert advice! :D :wink:
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hi David,

Yes, you need the correct motor. Rewiring will only help if you can get it to correct rpm's and correct external static pressure.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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Thank's!
I will give my StepSon a call & tell him what you told me & see if he can get me the correct motor for my system.
I agree with you on rewiring the motor.
Sounds kinda dangerous to me.
You've been a great help.
Have a festful TG & don't eat too much.
Merry Xmas as well & God Bless you all.
David
Oh!
Forgot to mention awhile back on another post I told you the flame had some yellow flame which you told me it was not a good sign.
Well this time when I turned on the gas valve & lit the pilot light & turned on the burner on the regulator valve it looked good with a blue flame like it's suppost to be.
Don't know why this happeded but i'm good with it for now as long as it stay's that way.
Will keep an eye on it all winter.
Thank's again!
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hi David,

You're very welcome, happy to help.

Happy Thanksgiving and Merry Christmas to you and yours as well.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
gordo48111
Posts: 67
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:45 am

David,

Just to add to Robert's correct response, a more powerful blower motor (hp) will not necessarily speed up the rpm's of the blower unless you tap into a higher speed. You need to know the specs (rpm) of the original motor to compare with those of a new motor and always check the temperature rise across the heat exchanger when replacing any motor.

I had a similar problem with my DGAT056BDD Coleman furnace. The air temperature from the wall registers was barely warm. I happened to read another post where it was suggested that the orifice on the gas valve be removed and checked for a spider sac that could be reducing the flow of gas to the burner. Sure enough, there it was, a spider sac right behind the orifice. You won't see it without removing the orifice.

Gordo
"Man...that blowed up real good!"
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Robert
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Do a search for the word spider and see how often I say that,LOL.

Bet it is a bunch.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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:) Thank's Robert for that humourous input.
A little dumb understanding the comment about spider search but will give it a try.
I'll search for the manual on how to remove the orifice to see if there might be a web inside.
Will a web inside the orifice cause the burner to not come on cause it does come on & off at my demand using the thermostat controls.
Amazingly the flame like I mentioned earlier puts out a real nice flow of blue the first time I fired it up for the winter & no blue yellow mixed flame like last year.
My wife mentioned yesterday when she turned on the electronic upper gas stove burner, it blasted out a red flame. :shock:
I know a gas flame doesn't put out a red flame & thought she was silly.
Never heard of a red flame but have heard of a yellow/blue mixed flame.
I'll have to take a temp readings from the register's & back at the unit incoming air like you mentioned for me & calculate the temp measurements you told me to do a long while back on another post.
My Stepson mentioned that procedure also to me one time.
Oh! Filter is clean also.
About the RPM"s you mentioed, both motors are 1375 RPM.
One being the 1/3 hp & the 3/4 hp whitch, is in it now.
I have one sitting beside me now that's a Broad-Ocean 1/3 hp 960 RPM 240v,60 hz 2.90 amps.
The one I accedently fried wiring it up myself that put me out %150.00.
Maybe I need to go back to the 960 rpm & not a 1375 rpm.
My Stepson had mentioned, too much air flow across the chamber might cause it not to build up enough heat before the blower come's on.
Still have it attached to the old intertherm thermostat on the other end of the house & not on the Hunter digital non programmable one near the furnuce.
The blower still comes on & off at times when I turn it down to a lower temp. when I decide it's not going to heat properly.
Then I merely just turn it all they down & wait till it completes a 3-4 on/off cycle about every 2-3 seconds going off & on.
Using small radiator heaters in each room for now till I can get this resolved.
Have to purchase a few more & put in both bathrooms so the pipes don't freeze up this winter.
Winter time's not so bad right now to use the furnace, but have to be ready for the big winter blast later on you know.
I still say there's something up with the limit switch causing the blower to go on & off too much at a lower temp. I'll have to I guess dish out that $90.00 or $99.00 soon & purchase one of them from your link cause I can't find a cheaper one outside your site.
There just not availible anymore for my MGH intertherm model.
Been discontinued indefinately.
What a bummer!!
I wished I had the money to just replace the whole unit bare & reinstall the new a-coil & motor.
You wouldn't by any chance know where I could get a bare Gutted unit that would fit mine do you?
Can't find one without the a-coil but can find them without the motor.
I checked the upper stack for blockage & was ok thinking it wasn't getting enough draft flow.
The burner blue flame tells me it's ok.
No holes in the inside chamber either.
There I go again blabbing on & I'm sorry for that.
I'll keep in mind about the limit switch purchase as soon as my tax return check arrives I get a large check at work.
I guess I had mentioned a while back, i'm retiring in February, thank goodness!.
Wlll have alot of time to get the house back in shape with the remodeling & fixing all the wall outlets & floors & such all through the house.
It's falling apart all around us little by little being a 88 model Prestige 16x60 v-roof.
Take care & you & the family have a festival TG & a Merry Xmas & a Happy & Safe New Year. :D
Hope it's a better one than the last.
See Ya!
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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Happy TG Robert. :)
:x Well I am getting tired of the MGH Intertherm unit cycling on & off even when the correct temp is in range for it to start heating the house & the air is still cool coming out of the registers.
It's sleeting outside & will most likely get down below freezing tonight.
Flame is still burning when it cycles off & on contiuously.
I've decided to go ahead for starters purchasing the 2 way switch 631947 & work my way up to the limit switch 626292 later on when my income tax return check comes in January.
Read a post on here where someone's fan kept going on & off in the same manner as mine & was an MGH model like mine.
I'll see if that's the problem for now once I get the switch.
Thank's! :wink:
David.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Sounds good David. Hope y'all had a great Thanksgiving as well.


Take care and best wishes,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

Mornin Robert.
Hope you & your family had a great TG feast.
Pretty cold in our house with the heater not functioning the way it should so I just left it off for now till I can reslove the problem.
I have one more question to ask.
Can you direct me to a site that explains how to remove the orifice from my Rogertshaw gas valve so I can see if theres a spider cob web inside so I can clean it.
I'm still thinking theres something wrong with the flame not putting out the correct flow out the burner.
The pilot light stays lit all the time but the flame just isn't flowing out strong enough.
Inspected the heating chamber for cracks & it appears to be ok.
Could explain the heater not heating up long enough for the blower to stay on long enough to heat up the chamber & duck work & why the motor just keeps cycling on & off.
I need to get me a camera & send you some video of how the flame is coming out if your site allows video's & not just pictures.
I want to send you $20.00 so you can help resolve my problem with the heater but don't know how to do it.
We are using electric oil radiator heaters to heat the house.
Thanks for your support!
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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Hi David,

Thanksgiving was great, hope yours was as well. No site to show how to do that. You remove gas valve and burner tube and it is in the burner tube end. Small brass threaded fitting with hole in center.

Pay the troubleshooting fee here:

http://www.mobilehomerepair.com/Order4b.html


However, know that just about all you can do DIY has already been done.



Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
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I have to tell you I got the furnace to blow out a good flow of blue flame now.
Removed the whole gas valve & burner assembly yesterday & found the tip of the tube going into the burner end where the flame comes out all plugged up with a crusty substance. (Not cobwebs).
I guess it was the soot from the flame dropping down inside the tube & dried out or something to that effect.
Had to scape it out with a small screwdriver & clean it up with a small oval brush to make it smooth & shiny.
It had barely enough room for the gas to flow out.
Applied dope to the main gas pipe threads & now it stay's running like it should with the fan running & not cycling on & off (Except when it's cooling down the chamber) & the flame is coming out good & strong.
One last thing though!
I still believe the motor that's in the furnace motor is too high of rpm's (3/4 hp ) my Stepson installed cause the air coming out is a bit too cool but barely warm.
Getting my Stepson over at XMAS to either rewire it slower or try to get me the right rpm motor (1/3 hp) that belongs in it.
The air blowing out is about the same speed as when you have the a/c on.
Seems there's no change in the speed & the air is not hot enough.
Filters are clean.
I still have intensions on purchasing that limit switch as soon as I get my tax refund checks & possibly a motor if my stepson can't find me a good used one off his job.
I might as well just replace everything in it since I got the gas system back to normal now.
I'm well familiar with my system now & how it function's "Thank's To You" except how to wire different motors with differant color wires. That's how I burned up the last 1/3 hp motor I wired myself. (Wiring it direct)
The colored wires were differant from the original motor.
You deserve that $20.00 fee & will get it soon enough cause you've helped me out SoSo much in the past with my furnace.
I'm comfortable now knowing my pipes won't freeze.
I'm staying a bit warmer now!!!
Thank's for your help!
Your the best!
You & your family have a joyful holiday season & a very safe New Years.
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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That's great David and you are very welcome, happy to help. On the side of the motor shouild be a wiring diagram. Of all the wires from your motor, first determine which ones are wired up.

To be wired up, there will be a wire connected at a source (not wire nutted off) and it will go into the molex plug. Then there will be a motor wire on other side of molex connector plug going to motor.

For yours, you should have 2 wires, one is 120vac and the other is neutral. The 120vac wire will come via the fan switch. The neutral will come from transformer, breaker, fuse area etc.

Neutral is usually orange or white, but not always. Your furnace should use the low speed for heat which should be a red wire.

IF no wire is coming into the molex plug from furnace side opposite red wire, find the 120vac wire (120vac to ground), remove it and place it opposite low speed wire from motor (should be red).

IF you have a/c, you will have 3 wires connected. One for heat (low speed-red), one for cool (high speed-black), and one neutral (orange or white usually).


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year !!


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
homebuff
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 8:38 am
Location: sallisaw, okla. 74955
Contact:

:) That's what I needed to hear from you.
I will get right to your instuctions.
You will be getting your $20.00 on Friday for sure.
As I said: YOU ARE THE BEST!!
I went ahead & replaced the 3 way fan switch I purchased from you, but do not know if that an effect on why it was cycling on & off so much but the important thing is that the gas furnace is working fine now & the fan is staying on for a longer period like it's suppost to & planning on rewiring the fan to a lower speed if possible & see what happens from there.
:D Again!! I say thank's & the best to you & your family & the staff of MHR site.
David
I am a certified ford diesel tech, "Retired Now" Ford Parts Department counter man, computer consultant, repairman & programmer
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Robert
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You're very welcome David, happy to help.


Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
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