I'm getting ready to rip out a 15' section of an exterior wall (hopefully the only section I do this to) to redo it and fix the floor
Do I just put up a temp wall a few feet inboard to hold up the roof while it is apart? It has a curved rubber roof. will the trusses hold up OK to being suported from this new position for a couple of days? based on the current wall (heavily notched 2x3s with a bit too much rot), it can't be very heavy.
Ripping out an exterior wall
Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD
Last year they replaced a 12 foot section of outside wall in a bedroom and did not add any temporary supports and had no problems. These were of course 2x4 exterior studs, not 2x3's.
Starting tomorrow they are replacing a second bedroom outside wall in the same way.
Extensive rotted floor joist ends, Rim Joist and plate.
Good luck.
On second though a little extra support might not hurt, JUST IN CASE. Better safe then sorry.
Starting tomorrow they are replacing a second bedroom outside wall in the same way.
Extensive rotted floor joist ends, Rim Joist and plate.
Good luck.
On second though a little extra support might not hurt, JUST IN CASE. Better safe then sorry.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
If security is an issue, you may need some type of wall. For the repair itself, you could support the trusses with screw jacks and a 4x6 beam. 6 mil plastic can help keep weather out. This is certainly not something I would do if windy weather is expected any time soon.
If you use screw jacks, I would find out where the webbing is on the trusses and set the jacks there. I would also fasten the jack to the beam, the jack to floor joists and the beam to the trusses in some way to ensure they do not move.
I have lightweight jacks I use for quicker repairs. Basically they are load jacks for truck trailers, and a carpeted 4x4 beam. For a job that may take overnight or longer, I would use construction style screw jacks or possibly just lumber. Something stronger and more secure.
JMO
JD
If you use screw jacks, I would find out where the webbing is on the trusses and set the jacks there. I would also fasten the jack to the beam, the jack to floor joists and the beam to the trusses in some way to ensure they do not move.
I have lightweight jacks I use for quicker repairs. Basically they are load jacks for truck trailers, and a carpeted 4x4 beam. For a job that may take overnight or longer, I would use construction style screw jacks or possibly just lumber. Something stronger and more secure.
JMO
JD
☯JD♫
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Today is PERFECT!
All information and advice given is for entertainment and informational purposes only. The person doing the work is solely responsible to insure that their work complies with their local building code and OSHA safety regulations.
Sounds like I'll do what I was originally planning. I think I'll make a temp wall out of 2x4s. Screw the sill plate to the floor and let the header just sit up there to catch the ceiling, maybe a diagonal brace or 2 also. I'm not too woried about theft or weather, but I don't want the whole place to come crashing down mid repair.
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