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Moderators: Greg, Mark, mhrAJ333, JD

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Greg
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Location: Weedsport, NY

This may be a good time to pitch a book that "Someone here" wrote. It covers this type of situation, It's available in the Books & parts section of the site.

Did I just turn this into an open book test?? Greg
"If I can't fix it, I can screw it up so bad no one else can either."
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Robert
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Location: Tennessee

Everyone stare at the I-beam and the the pier it sits on. :)




Thanks,
Robert
Some people are Humbly Grateful, while some are Grumbly Hateful.................... Which one are you ?
palasport
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2010 6:04 pm

honestly you got me on this one, but the gas line does not appear to be hooked up, and the pier does not even appear to have weight on it cause the top incorrectly installed board appears to be leaning? also cant really tell if a tie down was properly used or secured? but ad that to my other answers

1> blocks should be placed with the holes up and down,for increased strength
2>There should be a 16x16x4 pad under blocks
3>The axle should be removed so the home sits on the blocks.
4>the blocks should have a equal or lesser hardwood pad on top of them.
also in some areas blocks are not permitted and bottle jacks must be used check codes.
Steve S.
Posts: 117
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 7:41 pm
Location: Maine

Just went "down under" to look at my piers...I have a concrete pad, then two concrete blocks side-by-side parallel to the I-beams. Atop those I have a single concrete block(with holes) perpendicular to the I-beam and atop that a solid 4" high concrete block. Then a single hardwood board, 1" in thickness I believe. For shims, I have no wedges, just straight parallel pieces. A very thought-provoking question...I'm stumped.
joedirt63
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ok ,needs a footing or cement pad,mine has a footing pad 3 ft deep and 24 inch x 24 inch, blocks should be stacked with holes veritcal, cement cap blocks added to take up asmuch clearance as possible no wood excep for a shim if needed. wood compresses over time. must be solid from the ground up,and stable
"a man has got to know his limitations", clint eastwood. " i haven't found mine yet," me
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Brenda (OH)
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Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 7:57 am

ok, I got out the book....

need 3 to 6 foot deep gravel or concrete pier
a block footing on top of the pier
cement blocks, holes running vertically, set so run parallel with the metal frame
a cap block
hardwood shims, one from each side,can do do two sets side by side

if I am not close, I suggest you give the mug to dinotoad, and start another contest next week lol.... don't get me wrong, I would love to get the mug lol

Brenda (OH)
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

1. There should be a pad under column of blocks or a full pad under entire home.

2. Home needs to be elevated and leveled.

3. fill in the hole that's next to the block so the blocks don't shift.

4. blocks need to be set on there side to where the holes run up and down and not east to west.

5. solid cap on top of blocks.

6. blocks need to be set back away from where the axles go on the home.

7. any blocking other then the cinder blocks need to be treated and the wedge needs to be hardwood.

8. I don't see any tie downs or plastic covering on the ground and theres a lot of stuff under the home.

I know thats more then four but I'm trying to cover all bases.
You can do anything if you put your mind to
steelworkersgal
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 1:30 pm
Location: Central Illinois

Oh I forgot one the blocks need to be running along the same way the i-beams are.
You can do anything if you put your mind to
Lorne
Posts: 368
Joined: Sat May 19, 2007 7:57 am
Location: Murrells Inlet,SC

What the heck I'll try.
1- no base for blocks
2-need 4 blocks with the 2nd row in opposite direction
3-Solid blocks
4- All wood blocks the same size as the blocks running the same direction as the frame members.
1987 Craftsman Double Wide 42x28,w/attached 28x12 foot enclosed porch/ re-shingled 2 yrs ago. Original exterior vinyl w/no sheathing.
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Mark
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Location: Aberdeen, SD
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It's time to announce a winner for our second coffee mug giveaway. Here are the 4 answers that I was looking for.

1. The blocks must have a base. For a single stack, that base should be at least a 16x16x4. A poured pad also works as a base. I also like railroad ties. And yes you could have a poured pier too.

2. The holes in the blocks must be up and down. There's little strength in the blocks if the holes are sideways.

3. Use as little wood at the top as possible, and when you do use wood, be sure its hardwood. Oak is a good wood.

4. Always use 2 shims together, and be sure the shims are made out of oak or some other hardwood.

In reading some other answers, it's not necessary to turn the blocks parallel to the frame. You don't need to cement the blocks together. You can use a double stack, which especially over the axle area would be a good idea. Or just use more stacks of single blocks closer together if you have a heavy home. 8 to 10 feet apart is what HUD recommends for block spacing, but be sure to doublecheck with your home's manufacturer specs.

In reading and re-reading the answers, the winner is GraceNC. Be sure to e-mail me a mailing address of where to send your mug. I'm still waiting for the first winner to e-mail me. Look for our third mug contest, which will be posted later tonight or tomorrow. Below is the best example of a correct block set that I could find in my diary of pictures (and check out all those tie-downs!)

Thanks for playing,
Mark
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You can't fail if you don't try!
GraceNC
Posts: 62
Joined: Mon Feb 23, 2009 2:07 pm

Wow! Me?

Thank you so much- you've received a message with my mailing address.

I'll use my mug proudly, and the coupon as well!

Thanks
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